Tikka T3X Failure to Fire

[TaperPin]

I think it’s your primers. The new box of primers was fine, then the next new box wasn’t. The common thread there is primers. Did you buy the original problem primers and the latest box of bad primers from the same place?

When properly stored and off the shelves relatively quickly bad boxes of primers are really rare.

 

[Rugger7622]

Today's primers were a new box of Winchester that was unopened and it was only FTF in LC Brass, I'm growing more confident it's the brass - but I don't know why it's the brass. My Friday shooting of only Starline will tell me a little more. I'll probably loading up the Norma factory brass that I shot today as well.

 

[Jordan Smith]

Update:

I bought a pack of Starline Brass and went through my LC brass (once fired, bought from Sage's) and sorted both brass types to +/- .005 of Sammi zero. For the LC brass, it's Swaged, however, I bought an RCBS crimp cutting tool and prepped this brass with it, just to make sure the primers were seating properly. All primers in all brass felt and appeared to seat properly. I loaded some Winchester SRP to try to eliminate CCI450's, just for another variable. Interestingly, I got approximately 45fps more with Winchester primers but ES's doubled.

Also, bought a box of Norma factory for the brass and to test factory for FTF.

Norma Factory 75g - 10 shots, all fired, ES was terrible at 100 and velocity was only 2,410
LC - 10 with Winchester SRP, 2 FTF
LC - 5 with CCI450's, all fired
Starline - 10 with Winchester all fired
Starline - 5 with CCI 450's all fired.

So 40 shots total including 10 Norma Factory with 2 FTF (both LC brass).

Looks like for some reason, the issue is LC brass.

I'll load up 25 more Starline and shoot Friday to validate along with the other Norma factory.

Feels like I'm getting somewhere, I appreciate all the help to this point. All groups today were under 1", with the worst being the Norma at .88" for ten shots. For my reloads, I shot 50% 75ELDM's and 50% 77TMK's.

Possibly, but you used sample sizes that were too small for each type of ammo, so it's difficult to say if your conclusion is likely to be correct. Have all your problems with FTF in this rifle been with LC brass?

 

[TaperPin]

Well, all of us are really looking forward to what you eventually find out.

 

[Rugger7622]

Not all. but most. I had a couple with factory when I 1st shot it, but I'm pretty sure my bolt was being hit by me and moving it up a bit. No FTF in factory since and not FTF in Starline brass. I don't think it's primers, but can't be sure, you are right, more sampling to be done with bigger test, but I'm going to put the LC brass aside for my next sample to see if see anymore FTF.

 

[Rugger7622]

Me too!!!

 

[Jordan Smith]

Not all. but most. I had a couple with factory when I 1st shot it, but I'm pretty sure my bolt was being hit by me and moving it up a bit.

I wouldn't be so sure. That seems too coincidental.

I would start by re-installing the barrel correctly.

 

[Rugger7622]

I know I should and might get to it, but I'm doing everything I can to avoid messing with the barrel due to the way it shoots!

 

[wind gypsy]

I have a hard time seeing how being on the tight end with headspace could contribute to the issue. Also have hard time understanding how brass could contribute unless the pockets were reamed very deep and primers aren't seated tight in them.

 

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

I have a hard time seeing how being on the tight end with headspace could contribute to the issue.

If the bolt can't fully close (due to headspace) it can cause a light primer strike. Its already been mentioned above but if you accidentally lift the bolt handle a little when trying to shoot it you can get a FTF, that happened to me shooting off my pack this fall during a hunt (handle lifted a tad), the round fired just fine later with the bolt handle fully down.

If the tight chambering is causing the same effect of not being able to rotate the bolt fully into position it could cause a light strike the same as if the handle had lifted a bit.

Dunno if that is the situation here but that is how it would make sense in my head how tight headspace could cause an issue.

 

[waspocrew]

I have a hard time seeing how being on the tight end with headspace could contribute to the issue. Also have hard time understanding how brass could contribute unless the pockets were reamed very deep and primers aren't seated tight in them.

Agreed, too much headspace would contribute to light strikes. I don’t see how a tight chamber (or min spec of headspace) would lead to this issue.

 

[wind gypsy]

If the bolt can't fully close (due to headspace) it can cause a light primer strike. Its already been mentioned above but if you accidentally lift the bolt handle a little when trying to shoot it you can get a FTF, that happened to me shooting off my pack this fall during a hunt (handle lifted a tad), the round fired just fine later with the bolt handle fully down.

If the tight chambering is causing the same effect of not being able to rotate the bolt fully into position it could cause a light strike the same as if the handle had lifted a bit.

Dunno if that is the situation here but that is how it would make sense in my head how tight headspace could cause an issue.

Seems unlikely but i guess different people pay attention to different things. If I feel a little resistance on bolt close it immediately drives my attention to the bolt closing fully. If case is that tight in the chamber, it gets real tight while bolt is still closing and I'd hope makes it MORE obvious that a bolt isn't closed fully.

 

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

Seems unlikely but i guess different people pay attention to different things. If I feel a little resistance on bolt close it immediately drives my attention to the bolt closing fully. If case is that tight in the chamber, it gets real tight while bolt is still closing and I'd hope makes it MORE obvious that a bolt isn't closed fully.

I would tend to agree, but anything is on the table at the moment to trouble shoot.

 

[Rugger7622]

Bolt closes like normal on both factory and reloads. Only tight on a go gauge. I'm meeting my gunsmith tomorrow at 1 tomorrow to review all of it and get his recommendations as well, I spent an hour on the phone with him today and he's stumped as well.

I did buy a new bolt spring and one that is 10% tougher and we might install it, maybe he will see something I'm missing. I did swap bolt spring and pin with another Tikka two times ago and had FTF, so I thought I ruled that out.

I'm also loading up and shooting 25 more Starline brass Friday morning.

I really appreciate the advice on this one, baffling. I've been holding the bolt down to make sure it doesn't move when shooting, did that today on both FTF's.

 

[Rugger7622]

My primer strikes on each FTF, look like normal primer strikes. Not light primer strikes, visually at all.