Tikka T3X Failure to Fire

[Rugger7622]

Well.....I'm at a loss. Shot 40 today, my reloads, new box of primers and had 23 FTF!!!! To recap:

1. TIght chamber - bolt won't close oi Forster go gauge without tremendous force
2. I swapped firing pin/spring from another tikka I own and still had FTF
3. Gun has been moved to 3 different stocks, none better or worse
4. Fired brass only grows .001 and as measured on a Whidden case gauge die is at SAMI 0
5. Primer strikes look solid, not light, 50% of rounds fire on a bolt re-cock
6. Using CCI 450 SRP

Gun shoots lights out, just not sure where to go from here?

Do I buy another bolt?
Do I pull the barrel and move the shouldered nut out a bit to give the chamber a bit more space?
Do I try some different brand primers with softer cups?

 

[tall]

1. TIght chamber - bolt won't close oi Forster go gauge without tremendous force

Do I pull the barrel and move the shouldered nut out a bit to give the chamber a bit more space?

You've done a lot. In your shoes, I would fix the known issue (tight chamber), even if I don't understand how it could cause the problem. With a barrel nut and chamber gauges in hand, it's a free and fairly straightforward fix.

Thread 'Tikka Barrel Removal and Install Tool Swap Thread'

May 22, 2023

Based on the discussion from the Semi-Custom Tikka thread, I want to offer up my tools that I'm no longer using to others to remove their factory barrels and install new ones.

Here's what I've got and the cost to replace:
Wheeler Action Wrench #1 - $80
PMA Gen II Barrel Vise - $90
Bugholes Tikka Internal Action Wrench - $100
Torque Wrench (up to 80 ft-lb) w/ bit - $50
Creedmoor Go Gauge - $50
Volquartsen Pistol Case - $30

Full cost to replace = $400

I think some others might be willing to include go/no-go gauges if needed. If there's other items that are needed, feel free to post below...

• gtriple
• Replies: 302
• Forum: Firearms

• 

 

[mtnbound]

Well.....I'm at a loss. Shot 40 today, my reloads, new box of primers and had 23 FTF!!!! To recap:

1. TIght chamber - bolt won't close oi Forster go gauge without tremendous force
2. I swapped firing pin/spring from another tikka I own and still had FTF
3. Gun has been moved to 3 different stocks, none better or worse
4. Fired brass only grows .001 and as measured on a Whidden case gauge die is at SAMI 0
5. Primer strikes look solid, not light, 50% of rounds fire on a bolt re-cock
6. Using CCI 450 SRP

Gun shoots lights out, just not sure where to go from here?

Do I buy another bolt?
Do I pull the barrel and move the shouldered nut out a bit to give the chamber a bit more space?
Do I try some different brand primers with softer cups?

Well.....I'm at a loss. Shot 40 today, my reloads, new box of primers and had 23 FTF!!!! To recap:

1. TIght chamber - bolt won't close oi Forster go gauge without tremendous force
2. I swapped firing pin/spring from another tikka I own and still had FTF
3. Gun has been moved to 3 different stocks, none better or worse
4. Fired brass only grows .001 and as measured on a Whidden case gauge die is at SAMI 0
5. Primer strikes look solid, not light, 50% of rounds fire on a bolt re-cock
6. Using CCI 450 SRP

Gun shoots lights out, just not sure where to go from here?

Do I buy another bolt?
Do I pull the barrel and move the shouldered nut out a bit to give the chamber a bit more space?
Do I try some different brand primers with softer cups?

As mentioned before I would fix #1. With it working so much better the other day I’m not convinced this is the issue but it’s something you can do for free.
I might have a spare 223 bolt in my stash of parts, if I do I will be happy to send it to you so you can try and see if that helps before you look to buy one.

 

[Rugger7622]

If you have a space bolt, I would love to try it. DM me and we can work out the details.

 

[Jordan Smith]

Two things:
1) I would correct the tight chamber, as others have said. With a Remage-style barrel nut and barrel, it's super easy to remove, inspect, and re-install the barrel so the bolt closes snug, but not overly tight, on a GO gauge. Torque the barrel nut to 80-100 ft-lbs, and then move to stage 2.
2) If the problem persists after the re-install of the barrel, I would want to be very sure whether the problem lies with the handloads or the rifle. You have mentioned having the same problem with factory ammo as well as various handloads. If you can confirm that the problem persists with factory ammo, then the problem is almost certainly being caused by some issue with the rifle.

 

[Rugger7622]

Sounds good, I did shoot a box of factory last week with no FTF and 20 reloads with 1 FTF. Today was all my reloads, nothing special, full length size, prime, powder bullet, shoot. Today was with both Hornady brass and LC brass both of which had been fired before in this gun and I had FTF with both brass today.

All primers have what appear to be full primers strikes, which makes this even more confusing to me. I can't for the life of me, figure out why a tight chamber would lead to FTF's.

 

[Rugger7622]

All primers have what appear to be full primers strikes, which makes this even more confusing to me. I can't for the life of me, figure out why a tight chamber would lead to FTF's.

Here are a couple pictures, the one with 3 are FTF’s that went on the 2nd try. The single didn’t go off on the second try. Primers looks slightly off center but well struck.

 

[Jordan Smith]

Sounds good, I did shoot a box of factory last week with no FTF and 20 reloads with 1 FTF. Today was all my reloads, nothing special, full length size, prime, powder bullet, shoot. Today was with both Hornady brass and LC brass both of which had been fired before in this gun and I had FTF with both brass today.

All primers have what appear to be full primers strikes, which makes this even more confusing to me. I can't for the life of me, figure out why a tight chamber would lead to FTF's.

Yeah, a tight chamber is not usually correlated with light primer strikes and FTF, which is generally a symptom of excess headspace (i.e., a loose chamber).

I would take the time to fire 2 boxes of factory ammo and see if you get any FTF. If not, then I would focus on the handloading process. Are you excessively sizing the brass (you mentioned bumping the shoulder by about 0.001", but I would confirm that you're not creating excess headspace during the sizing process)? Seating the primers until they bottom out? Etc.

 

[Dan Carey]

As stated before I don't think the primers are seated deep enough.

 

[Jordan Smith]

IIRC, without going back through the entire thread, you mentioned having the same issue after swapping bolts, correct?

 

[Dan Carey]

The processed brass is cleaned, resized, primer pocket swaged. The swaging process only affects the very top of the pocket, so if you can get a primer started its good. The primer is seated correctly when it is at the same plane as the top of the head, if you stand it up on a flat surface it will not move side to side. For now just use brass that you have resized yourself. Again its the speed of the firing pin that ignites the primer. Years ago when we were using Remington actions we replaced the firing spring with a stiffer one to improve lock time, we found that it also decreased SD of the loads.

 

[Benny119]

If this was my rifle I would install both the trigger and the firing pin assembly from one of the other tikkas and try that.

 

[Rugger7622]

To answer some the questions above:

* I swapped firing pin/spring set up with another tikka and had FTF's
* I'm seating primers until they bottom out
* I'm bumping shoulders only .0015" measured on a whidden case gauge (fired brass is only getting to zero, and I'm bumping to -.0015"). I really like this gauge since it shows you your chamber specs. It's this one:

* FL sizing with a Forster Match die with the expander button

Only thing I haven't changed in the reloading process is trying a different brand of primer, like Federal or something.

 

[Jordan Smith]

Testing with 40 rounds of factory ammo will serve as a sanity test and verify whether it's a problem with your handloads or the rifle.

Something certainly sounds awry if your fired brass is right at SAAMI minimum but your bolt closes hard on a GO gauge.

 

[Rugger7622]

I agree, using the widden gauge and a go gauge, I can confirm the chamber is tight, but not outside Saami minimum. I'll grab a couple more boxes of factory and see what I get.

Just FYI..my last box of factory measured -.003 below the SAAMI 0 line on the gauge.