Tikka T3X D-18 at Cabelas?

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Apr 21, 2015
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If you want SS you will need to get am Ember. Viell, Cabelas lite D-18 and the other RoughTech models are not SS actions or barrels. Sportmans has the SS Ember for less than Cabelas D-18. Personally, I like the Ember stock better than all of the others. It’s not really rough but not smooth. You can paint the stock if you don’t like the color. That would still come under the price of the D-18. I have an Ember stock but I really Ike the color so not going to paint it.

I don’t know anyone that has ever Cera-Koted a SS barrel. Flutes maybe to dress it up a bit. But if you want action and barrel with matching CeraKote why get Stainless?
I have my stainless rifles cerakoted or otherwise colored.

If you ever look at a hunter with a stainless rifle from a distance it looks like they are carrying a glow stick. Even the bead blasted ones look like that. Just a bright glowing rod sticking up off a guys shoulder.

My Remington American Wilderness rifle came factory as a stainless cerakoted action/barrel, though I question if it’s the real deal as electrical tape pulled the finish off the last inch or so of the barrel.
 
OP
R
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Sorry bud but my blued Tikka T3 308 shoots a 175 grain Federal TLR Edge 2660 FPS and 130 grain Barnes TTSX 3050 FPS.

Tell me again they are slow lol. What a crock of made up forum chit.

Good for you, but thats not my experience or many others. What chronograph are you using? Most of them lie.
 

kurtiss00

FNG
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Oct 29, 2017
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I'm interested in this rifle, seems we are getting conflicting information as to whether it is stainless or not. Can anyone confirm if it is stainless or CM?
 
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Sorry bud but my blued Tikka T3 308 shoots a 175 grain Federal TLR Edge 2660 FPS and 130 grain Barnes TTSX 3050 FPS.

Tell me again they are slow lol. What a crock of made up forum chit.
 

Lawnboi

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Iv loaded now for 7 factory tikka barrels in 223 and 6.5cm. Both stainless and non. They are both slow. I saw no difference, and I generally load generic loads for a few hundred rounds. I wouldn’t get stainless just cause it’s supposedly faster. That said plenty of other good reasons to get stainless. I own and have loaded for a few tikkas with and without custom barrels. Both factory and fancied up with cerakote, threading and stocks. I’m not spending that kind of money on a factory rifle. While most of my factory tikka barrels have shot okay, they are not a premium barrel spun on by a good smith. Price reflects that. I’ll slap a lite in a stock or chassis after getting it coated and threaded again but I wouldn’t spend 1200 bucks on the tikka with some lipstick. To me the money in a tikka is in the action and trigger first, barrel second.
 
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Iv loaded now for 7 factory tikka barrels in 223 and 6.5cm. Both stainless and non. They are both slow. I saw no difference, and I generally load generic loads for a few hundred rounds. I wouldn’t get stainless just cause it’s supposedly faster. That said plenty of other good reasons to get stainless. I own and have loaded for a few tikkas with and without custom barrels. Both factory and fancied up with cerakote, threading and stocks. I’m not spending that kind of money on a factory rifle. While most of my factory tikka barrels have shot okay, they are not a premium barrel spun on by a good smith. Price reflects that. I’ll slap a lite in a stock or chassis after getting it coated and threaded again but I wouldn’t spend 1200 bucks on the tikka with some lipstick. To me the money in a tikka is in the action and trigger first, barrel second.

That has not been my experience at all. I've helped numerous people set up CTR's to get into LR shooting. The SS models in both 6.5 and 308 have been consistently faster than the CM barrels, as much as 100fps difference in the same barrel length. All shot over a Magnetospeed which is as accurate as a chrono gets. The SS models also carbon and copper foul a lot less and seem to break in and speed up 50-100 rounds faster.

I had a T3 Lite SS 223 that I head cut back to 20" and reamed to 223AI. It only ran 60fps slower with the same bullet and charge weight than my APA with a 21" rock creek that was also an 8 twist.
 

Lawnboi

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That has not been my experience at all. I've helped numerous people set up CTR's to get into LR shooting. The SS models in both 6.5 and 308 have been consistently faster than the CM barrels, as much as 100fps difference in the same barrel length. All shot over a Magnetospeed which is as accurate as a chrono gets. The SS models also carbon and copper foul a lot less and seem to break in and speed up 50-100 rounds faster.

I had a T3 Lite SS 223 that I head cut back to 20" and reamed to 223AI. It only ran 60fps slower with the same bullet and charge weight than my APA with a 21" rock creek that was also an 8 twist.
That’s just what Iv seen. All hand loading for them, with the same exact components I use/have used. These are all rifles from the last few years. All on a Labradar that Iv been using since I started hand loading, that seems to work well enough.

Personally If I were in the market for a tikka I’d be looking for a stainless action/trigger and going from there. Iv come to the conclusion that components are not worth the time to be messing with factory barrels any longer, I want all my guns to shoot like rifles with bartleins on them.
 
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OP
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That’s just what Iv seen. All hand loading for them, with the same exact components I use/have used. These are all rifles from the last few years. All on a Labradar that Iv been using since I started hand loading, that seems to work well enough.

Personally If I were in the market for a tikka I’d be looking for a stainless action/trigger and going from there. Iv come to the conclusion that components are not worth the time to be messing with Ann longer, I want all my guns to shoot like rifles with bartleins on them.

I just want a second nice factory rifle or two that I can leave in different locations and not always have to travel with a rifle. I've got a Q Fix with a 22" Proof 6.5 Creed barrel thats going to be my go to for everything but I don't always want to have to travel with it if I don't have to. I kinda gave up on this since there's no straight answer about what the barrel and action material is and I haven't made it back to Cabelas.

At this point I think I'm going to pick up a SS lite 243 to have cut back to 18" and threaded and call it a day. I'd love to go 223 but it's not legal for deer in VA except damage tags.
 

Lawnboi

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I just want a second nice factory rifle or two that I can leave in different locations and not always have to travel with a rifle. I've got a Q Fix with a 22" Proof 6.5 Creed barrel thats going to be my go to for everything but I don't always want to have to travel with it if I don't have to. I kinda gave up on this since there's no straight answer about what the barrel and action material is and I haven't made it back to Cabelas.

At this point I think I'm going to pick up a SS lite 243 to have cut back to 18" and threaded and call it a day. I'd love to go 223 but it's not legal for deer in VA except damage tags.
I think a lite, chopped, threaded, with an aftermarket stock is the poor man’s custom. Add in some cerakote on the barrel and action(no bolt) and if you got a lucky barrel it’s right up there with the fancy stuff.
 
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That has not been my experience at all. I've helped numerous people set up CTR's to get into LR shooting. The SS models in both 6.5 and 308 have been consistently faster than the CM barrels, as much as 100fps difference in the same barrel length. All shot over a Magnetospeed which is as accurate as a chrono gets. The SS models also carbon and copper foul a lot less and seem to break in and speed up 50-100 rounds faster.

I had a T3 Lite SS 223 that I head cut back to 20" and reamed to 223AI. It only ran 60fps slower with the same bullet and charge weight than my APA with a 21" rock creek that was also an 8 twist.

I’m at the range right now. Brand new CM Tikka T3x 6.5 Creedmoor 143 grain ELD-X 41.5 grains H4350 CCI SRP magnum

2709 FPS

SD 6

ES 14

Magnetospeed
 

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Take a pic of the chrono screen then showing the numbers.

Dude I ain’t got time for this BS. I’m married with 5 kids, job and mortgage. I don’t need to take pics to prove a point on an Internet forum. I’ve got better things to do than make something up to prove a point. Believe what you want about barrels I don’t give a chit.
 
OP
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Dude I ain’t got time for this BS. I’m married with 5 kids, job and mortgage. I don’t need to take pics to prove a point on an Internet forum. I’ve got better things to do than make something up to prove a point. Believe what you want about barrels I don’t give a chit.

But you had time to come back to this thread to post a pic to try to prove a point 😂

You could have easily taken a picture of the screen to show that data you posted or a picture of the rifle with a chrono but you just posted a picture of a rifle on a bench. I highly highly doubt that you chronod your rifle today, so no I don’t believe you.
 
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But you had time to come back to this thread to post a pic to try to prove a point 😂

You could have easily taken a picture of the screen to show that data you posted or a picture of the rifle with a chrono but you just posted a picture of a rifle on a bench. I highly highly doubt that you chronod your rifle today, so no I don’t believe you.
I just want a second nice factory rifle or two that I can leave in different locations and not always have to travel with a rifle. I've got a Q Fix with a 22" Proof 6.5 Creed barrel thats going to be my go to for everything but I don't always want to have to travel with it if I don't have to. I kinda gave up on this since there's no straight answer about what the barrel and action material is and I haven't made it back to Cabelas.

At this point I think I'm going to pick up a SS lite 243 to have cut back to 18" and threaded and call it a day. I'd love to go 223 but it's not legal for deer in VA except damage tags.
I’ve got the D-18. Looking at the barrel right now. I don’t see any SS markings.
 

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