Tikka t3x .243 win 108 eldm vs 6.5 creedmoor 130 tmk

Which combo would you choose for deer/elk/black bear

  • .243 win/ 108 eldm

    Votes: 39 46.4%
  • 6.5 creedmoor/130tmk

    Votes: 45 53.6%

  • Total voters
    84

MT-nuffgun

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Jan 24, 2023
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If a guy was looking at buying an end all/ be all cartridge and bullet combo for hunting deer/elk/black bear in a t3x lite rifle which combo would you choose and why? .243 win/108 eldm or a 6.5 creed/130 TMK?
 

Reddish

Lil-Rokslider
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Apr 1, 2023
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This would be tough for me to decide, both would be great options. I have a soft spot for the .243 so that’s my vote. Had a lot of experience with 105 A-Max and had great success. Just getting started with the 108, but based on results on here from others it works.
 

Maverick1

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You did not include your intended shooting distance or maximum effective range. Regardless, inside of most common hunting distances they are both effective, and - for the most part - the same. Pick one and go.
 
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I’m literally going through this same internal dilemma. I’ve got a CVA 6.5 creed that shoots the 130s really well, but I’m not overly fond of the rifle itself. I’ve been feeling an 8 twist tikka .243 calling my name.
 
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Also, I used to have a t3x super lite 6.5, and it shot great. Sold it when I thought I wanted to shoot magnums at everything (dumbass)
 
OP
MT-nuffgun

MT-nuffgun

Lil-Rokslider
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Are you planning to hand load the 108 ELDMs?
Absolutely, I doubt if I could find factory 108’s in the .243 anyway. if I go the .243 route I would probably have the barrel set back and rechambered to AI if the barrel proves it can shoot which I have read most tikkas do. We shoot .243’s in my family and enjoy the heck out of them, but they are all slow twist barrels shooting traditional bullets. My oldest daughter has a savage 6.5 creedmoor that I have worked up a load for that shoots 130 tmk’s at 2900 fps which is also a decent setup. I am not necessarily a long range guy but would like a rifle setup that I could shoot out to 500 accurately. I practice at that range but have yet to kill game at that range. My longest shot on a critter the last Handful of years was an antelope at 330 so maybe I am overthinking all of this. I guess in the grand scheme of things I want a weather resistant left hand hunting rifle that is fairly light weight and light recoiling and these are the two options I have it boiled down to. Decisions,decisions
 
Last edited:
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In that case, I wouldn’t rule out going smaller. A fast twist .22-250, .22 Creedmoor, or even .223 would likely do everything you need with less recoil than the mighty .243.
 
OP
MT-nuffgun

MT-nuffgun

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In that case, I wouldn’t rule out going smaller. A fast twist .22-250, .22 Creedmoor, or even .223 would likely do everything you need with less recoil than the mighty .243.
Tikka t3x lite in left hand .223 is not easy to find in the U.S.. tikka website shows 22-250 left hand as a 1-14 twist.
 
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I think this matters less than we agonize over. 243 wins recoil, but 6.5 creed wins east match ammo by a mile

Maybe that’s my bias from owning a 6.5 creed as a do all, but I just think both of these are fine
 
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i went 243 because it's faster than 6.5CM and i found a LH tikka with 8 twist. if i ever burn out the barrel i could go to 6mm CM. not really giving up much one way or another. 6.5CM ammo might be slightly less expensive to practice with due to overabundance and variety of factory loads. but if you're just buying brass and reloading, doesn't really matter.


probably should get just both. but i'd get the 6.5 in a CTR or TACT for making itty bitty groups and hunt with the 243
 

sveltri

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What's to be gained from going ackley? I can push 108s to 3050 from a standard 243 tikka chamber. Is an ackley that much faster?
not trimming, I also believe less brass flow equals longer brass life. Unless, of course, you load hot enough to blow the primer pockets. I'm shooting the 108's 3066 and I guarantee I'm doing it with less pressure than a standard .243. Additionally, if you Ackley it you can send a dummy round and have it chambered to whatever COAL you want. My boattail is right at the neck/shoulder junction.
 

Mulyhuntr

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not trimming, I also believe less brass flow equals longer brass life. Unless, of course, you load hot enough to blow the primer pockets. I'm shooting the 108's 3066 and I guarantee I'm doing it with less pressure than a standard .243. Additionally, if you Ackley it you can send a dummy round and have it chambered to whatever COAL you want. My boattail is right at the neck/shoulder junction.
How much more brass life we talking? 200 pieces should get me through the life of a barrel in either chamber? Every 243 post I see people say "send it in to get ackleyed". I get it if changing barrels, but have a hard time seeing the point on a brand new $850 tikka.
 

sveltri

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How much more brass life we talking? 200 pieces should get me through the life of a barrel in either chamber? Every 243 post I see people say "send it in to get ackleyed". I get it if changing barrels, but have a hard time seeing the point on a brand new $850 tikka.
Sounds like your mind is made up, I gave some reasons to do it.
 

pods8 (Rugged Stitching)

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In that case, I wouldn’t rule out going smaller. A fast twist .22-250, .22 Creedmoor, or even .223 would likely do everything you need with less recoil than the mighty .243.
I feel a statement like this should ALWAYS have the caveat of "*if allowed in all states you ever plan to hunt with this caliber" so it doesn't lead folks off track considering numerous states do not allow <.243 calibers for big came hunting.
 

Carl Ross

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How much more brass life we talking? 200 pieces should get me through the life of a barrel in either chamber? Every 243 post I see people say "send it in to get ackleyed". I get it if changing barrels, but have a hard time seeing the point on a brand new $850 tikka.

With a factory barrel that's already chambered, the juice isn't worth the squeeze for most shooters IMO. If you're a rifle looney and really want to justify it, seveltri gave the reasons (though you can only lengthen the throat, not shorten it, unless you set the barrel significantly back).

To the original question, for a handloader, I would (and did) choose the .243. If you're shooting factory ammunition, harder choice. I will handload for mine, but I won't be punching it out.
 

AZ_Hunter

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To use the longer 108ish bullets in the 243 tikka, which magazine needs to be used and I would presume the bolt stop needs to be changed to a long action stop?

Thanks
 
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