Tikka super light 243 issue?

[gman82001]

Apologies for the long post but kind of need some suggestions here

Just picked up a 1-8 super light from Sportsmans a few weeks ago and finally got to shoot it this weekend.
Cleaned it as usual for a new rifle

Used 3 rounds of federal blue box to get it on paper and close enough to shoot some Hornady precision hunter 90 eld-x I ordered wanting to run in it. Of the 3 rounds 2 were very tight closing the bolt


Switched over to the precision hunter 3-3 round groups almost all are tight to chamber and nothing less than about 2.5”

Grabbed some 90 gr accubond reloads I’ve got built for my wife’s Ruger and have shot in a bergara I have about half of those were tight to close the bolt as well shot maybe 1.5” 5rd group

Brought it in checked the scope rings were still torqued correctly. (Sports match for the tikka action rail so no pic rail to worry about)

Deep Cleaned the rifle paying a lot off attention in the chamber in case I’d missed it on the initial cleanings

Today fired 2 fouling rounds then shot 2- 3rd groups of precision hunter both 2.5-2.75inches but all but 2 rounds were stiff closing the bolt

Ran back up to the house and grabbed some 75gr max reloads I have for the bergara in new brass and shot 3rounds at about 1/2” but all 3 rounds were tight bolt to close.

Tried another group of precision hunter tight bolt and 3” group

Tried factory rem corelokt and all 3 chambered very smooth no tight bolt and right around 1” maybe a bit more.

Something to note is only have tight bolt closing no issues opening the bolt on anything

Question I have is are tikka chambers normally this tight? My 223 doesn’t have this issue.

Should I contact tikka or wait until I try a different bullet?
I have a box of 95 ballistic tips and lots of accubonds I can mess with to find a load.

I’m guessing now that I have brass fired in this chamber and can bump it back a few thousandths I may not have the tight bolt closure but that doesn’t help if I ever want to run factory ammo in it.

Thanks for any advice

 

[swavescatter]

call up Beretta

 

[nobody]

Have you checked action screw torque? Disassembled and degreased the action screws? If not, start there. Degrease the action screws and action screw holes, then either use loctite or nail polish on reassembly, and torque TIGHT.

Are you single feeding and limp writsting the cartridge into the chamber, or stuffing the mag full and running the bolt like you mean it?

I’ve noticed on my tikkas that on the EXTREMELY rare occasion I single feed and run the bolt gently it feels like the chamber is tight. But if I stuff the mag full and then run it at an average pace I have no issues.

Also, shoot more than 3 rounds into a group so you can get an accurate picture of how the rifle shoots. Put 10 rounds back to back through the gun before moving on to another ammo.

If it still won’t shoot after all that, call beretta and make them deal with it.

 

[AZ_Hunter]

Does it only feel right with a cartridge? Meaning not cycling empty.

 

[gman82001]

Have you checked action screw torque? Disassembled and degreased the action screws? If not, start there. Degrease the action screws and action screw holes, then either use loctite or nail polish on reassembly, and torque TIGHT.

Are you single feeding and limp writsting the cartridge into the chamber, or stuffing the mag full and running the bolt like you mean it?

I’ve noticed on my tikkas that on the EXTREMELY rare occasion I single feed and run the bolt gently it feels like the chamber is tight. But if I stuff the mag full and then run it at an average pace I have no issues.

Also, shoot more than 3 rounds into a group so you can get an accurate picture of how the rifle shoots. Put 10 rounds back to back through the gun before moving on to another ammo.

If it still won’t shoot after all that, call beretta and make them deal with it.

I did not disassemble but did check the screws were tight. I’ll check that as well

Tried both single feeding and feeding from the magazine didn’t seem to matter but what was weird was the factory Remington ammo chambered super smooth no tight bolt at all

I understand the 10rd groups for overall knowledge of how the rifle truly shoots but multiple 3 round groups all over 2” some pushing 3 tells me there’s an issue somewhere that a 10rd group of $2 a round ammo isn’t going to really teach me more of will it?

Another thing I just thought of when you mentions disassembling is I need to check and make sure it’s free floated the entire way as well.

 

[gman82001]

Does it only feel right with a cartridge? Meaning not cycling empty.

Yes tight with a cartridge but with no round super smooth like glass

 

[HighUintas]

Yes tight with a cartridge but with no round super smooth like glass

I'm almost positive it's your chamber. I had brand new Tikka that did this (shot awesomely well but decided to quit shooting that cartridge and sold the gun) , I have seen other's reports of it on here but mainly with Hornady factory ammo, and I've also experienced it with a takeoff 6.5cm factory barrel I'm using now. I solved the last barrel problem by just hand loading for it.

Either deal with Berettas crappy customer service, or have a smith touch up the chamber with a reamer. You could probably also just rent one yourself and do it by hand with some research. I was about to do that with my 6.5cm but decided I wouldn't shoot enough factory ammo for it to be worth it.

 

[Marbles]

I understand the 10rd groups for overall knowledge of how the rifle truly shoots but multiple 3 round groups all over 2” some pushing 3 tells me there’s an issue somewhere that a 10rd group of $2 a round ammo isn’t going to really teach me more of will it?

Agree, a 10 round group can only get bigger, not tighter than a 3 round group, so if the 3 rounder is too big, however you define that, no point in continuing to shoot it.

 

[dirtytough]

My Tikka 243 was tight with virgin brass. It also shot pretty poorly with multiple loads.

My Tikka 223 wasn’t tight on factory loads. But it also shot poorly with multiple loads.

Finally found a load for both that shoots decent. But it definitely was harder than expected.

 

[gman82001]

My Tikka 243 was tight with virgin brass. It also shot pretty poorly with multiple loads.

My Tikka 223 wasn’t tight on factory loads. But it also shot poorly with multiple loads.

Finally found a load for both that shoots decent. But it definitely was harder than expected.

I’m going to trying bumping these Hornady brass back and see if I can get something figured out with a couple different bullets I have on hand. Even have some 90 eld x here but not sure I’ll go down that path as poor as the factory stuff shot

 

[waspocrew]

If you have a local gunsmith you trust, I'd just have him clean up your chamber (sounds like it's on the min side of spec) - I've heard hit or miss with Beretta's CS and personally wouldn't want to deal with it.

 

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

I had bought 450rds of dogtown ammo for the 243win I got for the kids, I believe that is loaded by nosler with 70gr varmint rounds. It closes tight on some of that stuff, not ridiculous (my kids can chamber rounds fine) but noticeable imho. But it shoots really well. I use that brass as a supply for reloads and once bumped back there is no issue and that brass will be enough to burn out the barrel so not a big deal imho.

Long way of saying yes my tikka 243win chamber is tight in comparison to the ammo nosler made. Keep in mind both ammo and chambers have allowable tolerances, sometimes those can start to make things tighter.

 

[gman82001]

Been doing some reading and there was a couple other posts where people recommended taking a sharpie on the shoulder up to the ogive and around the base.

Here’s a picture of the Hornady factory eldx and it smudges around the base and nothing on the bullet then a 75vmax in virgin brass I loaded for my bergara and there’s the same smudge at the base but also has a line around the bullet that the eldx doesn’t but both are well within sammi specs. Does that line indicate it’s in the lands? If so that’s not good I’d think.

I’m planning to just reload some of the fired Hornady brass bumping .002-003 and see how they do with a different bullet because it did shoot very well with the vmax. As of right now I just think it’s got a minimum spec chamber and doesn’t like the Hornady ammo.


Vmax reload on right factory eldx left.

 

[swavescatter]

If you’re not in a hurry I would have beretta fix it. Seems like a too tight chamber where multiple factory loads are tight. Once a reamer cuts metal it’s your problem…

 

[JBradley500]

Can you take some headspace comparator measurements on the various unfired cases and also fired cases?

 

[gman82001]

Can you take some headspace comparator measurements on the various unfired cases and also fired cases?

I will have to try it on some different rounds and brass because I went and prepped all 20 of the Hornady and bumped the shoulders .002 before I saw your comment lol.

 

[steelheadmike]

I have a similar issue with my T3X in 7-08. I can't close the bolt on about 2/3 of the factory 150 ELD-X rounds that I have tried. Every other factory ammo has chambered flawlessly. I've thought about getting the chamber touched up but the rifle shoots other factory ammo pretty well so I don't really want to mess with it.

 

[SloppyJ]

My 300prc Proof barrel is like this. It's on the very tight end of the chamber tolerance. However, it shoots lights out.

You need to get your comparator and measure the shoulder datum point on a case that feeds tight and one that doesn't. What I came to decide on in my PRC is that since it shot so well and I can reliably bump the brass back with a little cam over on my press, I'm keeping it. I only shoot handloads through it so it's not an issue and most factory stuff works fine too.

Does it load fine on the empty, resized brass?