Tikka quick upgrades?

[bnewt3]

Main question: Do factory Tikkas typically benefit from any bolt lug lapping? Or do they tend to be pretty much flat and square from the factory?

I would obviously check mine with some dykem before I did anything.

Also, what real benefit does one of the upgraded bottom metal options have over factory?

 

[fatlander]

The vertical grip add on for the factory stock is really nice.

I also bought a beartooth products cheek riser ammo holder combo. That helped a lot with getting a better cheek weld.

Also added a limb saver recoil pad. That helped felt recoil a ton!

I haven’t replaced the bottom metal or messed with the lug. I’m going to eventually replace the stock all together. The 75ish bucks I spent in it is all I wanted to do, and I think it was worth it.

My T3X is an absolute tack driver, so I think the recoil lug is just fine from the factory.


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[bnewt3]

The vertical grip add on for the factory stock is really nice.

I also bought a beartooth products cheek riser ammo holder combo. That helped a lot with getting a better cheek weld.

Also added a limb saver recoil pad. That helped felt recoil a ton!

I haven’t replaced the bottom metal or messed with the lug. I’m going to eventually replace the stock all together. The 75ish bucks I spent in it is all I wanted to do, and I think it was worth it.

My T3X is an absolute tack driver, so I think the recoil lug is just fine from the factory.


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I have have a cheek riser and recoil pad as well, recoil pad was a noticeable difference. And the vertical grip is in the plans as well.

 

[mother_plucker]

Main question: Do factory Tikkas typically benefit from any bolt lug lapping? Or do they tend to be pretty much flat and square from the factory?

I would obviously check mine with some dykem before I did anything.

Also, what real benefit does one of the upgraded bottom metal options have over factory?

www.fullframeoutdoors.com has a little kit you add the vertical grip, cheek riser and bag rider for $85. I haven't purchased it, but it looks like it would be pretty slick. The tikka actions are just fine how they come, no accuracy issues with any that I have bought. I have sent them to Unknown for their lightning mods, and nitride coating, which always turns out nice.

 

[Steve300xcw]

Best thing you can do for that rifle is run about 1k rounds down the barrel...

Only reason to change out bottom metal IMO is if going to AICS mags.

Guys like to badazzle the hell outta these rifles, but they really dont need it.

 

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

The vertical grip add on for the factory stock is really nice.

I also bought a beartooth products cheek riser ammo holder combo. That helped a lot with getting a better cheek weld.

Also added a limb saver recoil pad. That helped felt recoil a ton!

I haven’t replaced the bottom metal or messed with the lug. I’m going to eventually replace the stock all together. The 75ish bucks I spent in it is all I wanted to do, and I think it was worth it.

My T3X is an absolute tack driver, so I think the recoil lug is just fine from the factory.


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-Yes vert grip if running factory stock.
-Personally I run stock packs on mine to get a higher cheek weld and carry extra ammo, personal preference.
-There is no need to replace the recoil lug on the T3X it is steel. The recoil lug thing was from the T3 which had an aluminum recoil lug that could indent some on high recoiling rounds over time.
-All mine have factory bottom metal, what I have done is buy a pack of washers that a pair stacked at each screw hole under the bottom metal supports the metal insert in the plastic so they can be torqued down without distorting.

 

[Kauaihunter]

Hunting? A Tikka doesn’t need anything but a good scope and mounts. Buy more ammo. I’ve been down that rabbit hole and it’s totally unnecessary.

However, if you want a Tweakka and have realistic expectations, go for it. YMMV

 

[N2TRKYS]

lighten the factory trigger
sand out the pressure point on the stock
hard pass on the vertical grip for me. The factory grip is way more comfortable and natural feeling.

That’s all I do to the t3x lites.

 

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

Do factory Tikkas typically benefit from any bolt lug lapping? Or do they tend to be pretty much flat and square from the factory?

Don't touch the action internals if you want to enjoy the prefit barrels / factory take offs that you can swap around with very good consistency (always check headspace for an anomaly though).

 

[bnewt3]

Mine is a SL in 308. I have yet to find ammo that shoots great(or I dont shoot great, I need to figure out which), a few that shoot fine and a number that shoot terribly. My definition of great is pretty consistent MOA off a bench. But TBH the only "good" ammo I have tried is Fed GM 168 SMK. I have maybe 200 through it so far.

I dont load my own yet but that is coming.

 

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

Mine is a SL in 308. I have yet to find ammo that shoots great(or I dont shoot great, I need to figure out which), a few that shoot fine and a number that shoot terribly. My definition of great is pretty consistent MOA off a bench. But TBH the only "good" ammo I have tried is Fed GM 168 SMK. I have maybe 200 through it so far.

I dont load my own yet but that is coming.

For what its worth a bunch of the drop testing form does is with a bonded 308win, I don't think the factory ammo lots used are typically <1moa for 10+ round groups, seems like alot are 1.25-1.5moa with some larger.

Point is with higher round groups expecting <1moa with a factory tikka barrel and factory ammo not tuned to it might be expecting too much esp. if your mind is going to lapping lugs. Finding a better fitting ammo (or reloading) would be the common first step.

 

[Okie_Poke]

Main question: Do factory Tikkas typically benefit from any bolt lug lapping? Or do they tend to be pretty much flat and square from the factory?

I’ve not seen a need to do this and would recommend you not.

Also, what real benefit does one of the upgraded bottom metal options have over factory?

Nothing, unless you just want metal instead of plastic. No guarantee the after-market ones work as reliably though. My plastic ones work fine.

Mine is a SL in 308. I have yet to find ammo that shoots great(or I dont shoot great, I need to figure out which), a few that shoot fine and a number that shoot terribly. My definition of great is pretty consistent MOA off a bench. But TBH the only "good" ammo I have tried is Fed GM 168 SMK. I have maybe 200 through it so far.

I dont load my own yet but that is coming.

My 30-06 Tikka averages about 1.25” for 10 shots. Some groups closer to an inch, some closer to 1.5.” Ditto my Bergaras in 6.5 Creedmoor. Obviously, 3-shot or 5-shot groups are often smaller but not always. Expecting more from a factory barrel is probably expecting too much, IMHO.

One thing I think helped my 30-06 was removing the pressure tab in the barrel channel of the stock so the barrel is free floated. A dremel or exacto knife and sandpaper with 10 minutes of effort will do it.

I also like the limbsaver pad and vertical grip for the factory stock. But they don’t make it more accurate.

 

[hereinaz]

Best thing you can do for that rifle is run about 1k rounds down the barrel...

Only reason to change out bottom metal IMO is if going to AICS mags.

Guys like to badazzle the hell outta these rifles, but they really dont need it.

Yes, the barrel will settle in after 150, and if you practice fundamentals with the first 1k, your groups will shrink.

You don't need to do anything to the lug engagement or make any other changes.

Vertical grip and recoil pad are quick and easy upgrades to improve the shootability. Other than that, I agree they will shoot out of the box.

I like to swap bottom metal to get better action screw torque. Eventually, the plastic will compress and break, but that isn't an issue to swap right away.

I started getting back some nitrided actions and I think they run better even with the standard bolt. So far, in the shop they feel great with DLC bolts. Doing that adds to the durability and longevity of a rifle for a very low cost. For a blued rifle, you could even nitride the barrel if you wanted.

If you shoot off a tripod or bipod, adding a rail is nice.

All of the above is relatively low cost for a meaningful return for a Tikka.

To me, the cost of a Stocky's VG is low enough that it is a good improvement, but not necessary. Also, the cost of a Bravo or Edge is worth it if you don't mind the extra weight.

As for the factory stock, since I started selling the Tikka prefits and barreled actions, I've been building out my collection and have 5 Tikka now in different calibers that we are selling so I can play with load data. Most are still in their factory stocks still. With the vertical grip, I really don't have much of a complaint about function. I run a test action in a KRG X-ray and range gun in a Bravo. Only one is in the Stocky's, and it is usually swapped into the next rifle going on the next hunt.

A new trigger is definitely not necessary. Backing the trigger screw out until it hits the allen bolt securing it brings the pull weight low enough that I can get clean trigger breaks but high enough so that I have to be intentional to send it. I have a two stage Timney trigger on one of mine, which is nice, but I ended up increasing the weight because I was used to the higher weight of the Tikka. I run my Tikka as field rifles, so have no need to go to a low weight like I used to run when I did PRS.

I’ve not seen a need to do this and would recommend you not.


Nothing, unless you just want metal instead of plastic. No guarantee the after-market ones work as reliably though. My plastic ones work fine.



My 30-06 Tikka averages about 1.25” for 10 shots. Some groups closer to an inch, some closer to 1.5.” Ditto my Bergaras in 6.5 Creedmoor. Obviously, 3-shot or 5-shot groups are often smaller but not always. Expecting more from a factory barrel is probably expecting too much, IMHO.

One thing I think helped my 30-06 was removing the pressure tab in the barrel channel of the stock so the barrel is free floated. A dremel or exacto knife and sandpaper with 10 minutes of effort will do it.

I also like the limbsaver pad and vertical grip for the factory stock. But they don’t make it more accurate.

Pretty much agree here. Expecting anything better than 1.5" with 5-10 shot groups is unrealistic. Many can shoot better, but as a field rifle with factory ammo, that is actually among the best and most consistent.