Tikka quick upgrades?

[bnewt3]

Main question: Do factory Tikkas typically benefit from any bolt lug lapping? Or do they tend to be pretty much flat and square from the factory?

I would obviously check mine with some dykem before I did anything.

Also, what real benefit does one of the upgraded bottom metal options have over factory?

 

[fatlander]

The vertical grip add on for the factory stock is really nice.

I also bought a beartooth products cheek riser ammo holder combo. That helped a lot with getting a better cheek weld.

Also added a limb saver recoil pad. That helped felt recoil a ton!

I haven’t replaced the bottom metal or messed with the lug. I’m going to eventually replace the stock all together. The 75ish bucks I spent in it is all I wanted to do, and I think it was worth it.

My T3X is an absolute tack driver, so I think the recoil lug is just fine from the factory.


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[bnewt3]

The vertical grip add on for the factory stock is really nice.

I also bought a beartooth products cheek riser ammo holder combo. That helped a lot with getting a better cheek weld.

Also added a limb saver recoil pad. That helped felt recoil a ton!

I haven’t replaced the bottom metal or messed with the lug. I’m going to eventually replace the stock all together. The 75ish bucks I spent in it is all I wanted to do, and I think it was worth it.

My T3X is an absolute tack driver, so I think the recoil lug is just fine from the factory.


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I have have a cheek riser and recoil pad as well, recoil pad was a noticeable difference. And the vertical grip is in the plans as well.

 

[mother_plucker]

Main question: Do factory Tikkas typically benefit from any bolt lug lapping? Or do they tend to be pretty much flat and square from the factory?

I would obviously check mine with some dykem before I did anything.

Also, what real benefit does one of the upgraded bottom metal options have over factory?

www.fullframeoutdoors.com has a little kit you add the vertical grip, cheek riser and bag rider for $85. I haven't purchased it, but it looks like it would be pretty slick. The tikka actions are just fine how they come, no accuracy issues with any that I have bought. I have sent them to Unknown for their lightning mods, and nitride coating, which always turns out nice.

 

[Steve300xcw]

Best thing you can do for that rifle is run about 1k rounds down the barrel...

Only reason to change out bottom metal IMO is if going to AICS mags.

Guys like to badazzle the hell outta these rifles, but they really dont need it.

 

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

The vertical grip add on for the factory stock is really nice.

I also bought a beartooth products cheek riser ammo holder combo. That helped a lot with getting a better cheek weld.

Also added a limb saver recoil pad. That helped felt recoil a ton!

I haven’t replaced the bottom metal or messed with the lug. I’m going to eventually replace the stock all together. The 75ish bucks I spent in it is all I wanted to do, and I think it was worth it.

My T3X is an absolute tack driver, so I think the recoil lug is just fine from the factory.


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-Yes vert grip if running factory stock.
-Personally I run stock packs on mine to get a higher cheek weld and carry extra ammo, personal preference.
-There is no need to replace the recoil lug on the T3X it is steel. The recoil lug thing was from the T3 which had an aluminum recoil lug that could indent some on high recoiling rounds over time.
-All mine have factory bottom metal, what I have done is buy a pack of washers that a pair stacked at each screw hole under the bottom metal supports the metal insert in the plastic so they can be torqued down without distorting.

 

[Kauaihunter]

Hunting? A Tikka doesn’t need anything but a good scope and mounts. Buy more ammo. I’ve been down that rabbit hole and it’s totally unnecessary.

However, if you want a Tweakka and have realistic expectations, go for it. YMMV

 

[N2TRKYS]

lighten the factory trigger
sand out the pressure point on the stock
hard pass on the vertical grip for me. The factory grip is way more comfortable and natural feeling.

That’s all I do to the t3x lites.

 

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

Do factory Tikkas typically benefit from any bolt lug lapping? Or do they tend to be pretty much flat and square from the factory?

Don't touch the action internals if you want to enjoy the prefit barrels / factory take offs that you can swap around with very good consistency (always check headspace for an anomaly though).

 

[bnewt3]

Mine is a SL in 308. I have yet to find ammo that shoots great(or I dont shoot great, I need to figure out which), a few that shoot fine and a number that shoot terribly. My definition of great is pretty consistent MOA off a bench. But TBH the only "good" ammo I have tried is Fed GM 168 SMK. I have maybe 200 through it so far.

I dont load my own yet but that is coming.

 

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

Mine is a SL in 308. I have yet to find ammo that shoots great(or I dont shoot great, I need to figure out which), a few that shoot fine and a number that shoot terribly. My definition of great is pretty consistent MOA off a bench. But TBH the only "good" ammo I have tried is Fed GM 168 SMK. I have maybe 200 through it so far.

I dont load my own yet but that is coming.

For what its worth a bunch of the drop testing form does is with a bonded 308win, I don't think the factory ammo lots used are typically <1moa for 10+ round groups, seems like alot are 1.25-1.5moa with some larger.

Point is with higher round groups expecting <1moa with a factory tikka barrel and factory ammo not tuned to it might be expecting too much esp. if your mind is going to lapping lugs. Finding a better fitting ammo (or reloading) would be the common first step.