The old T3 barrel likes a clean bore. For hunting, I clean the bore, check zero with 4 rounds. Clean the bore and fire 1 round. A slight foul for some reason works best.did have a savage 30-06 that for a few years grouped horribly after giving me 10+ years of great accuracy. i toyed with the idea of re-barreling it but one day pulled it out of the safe and realized the bore was blue and green. my youthful attempts at cleaning were apparently sub-par. after cleaning it fully it was <0.5 MOA at 200 yards with barnes. i apologized to my rifle for blaming it for being inaccurate. just a loose nut behind the
While I agree with this there is a simpler way if hand loading to get closer to the lands. All short action Tikka’s come with a standard length “M” magazine with the exception of the 6.5 creedmoor models which come with the “M+” mag. The M+ mag is longer which will allow you to load closer to the lands and will also fit and short action caliber round such as the 243, 6.5 creed, 7-08, and 308. Go on ebay and get a M+ mag for $35-$40 and seat closer to the lands without having to mess with the bolt stop..308 win is a short... if you are handloading, change out the bolt stop and load closer to the lands. Helped my 308 tikka out a ton.
All tikka T3X stocks should be interchangeable. Mags are the same and action length is the same. Stock is a huge upgrade... Mesa Precision makes a great one if you are concerned with keeping it lightweight.
While I agree with this there is a simpler way if hand loading to get closer to the lands. All short action Tikka’s come with a standard length “M” magazine with the exception of the 6.5 creedmoor models which come with the “M+” mag. The M+ mag is longer which will allow you to load closer to the lands and will also fit and short action caliber round such as the 243, 6.5 creed, 7-08, and 308. Go on ebay and get a M+ mag for $35-$40 and seat closer to the lands without having to mess with the bolt stop.
The M+ mags are just a tad longer in the back then the M mags, but allow you to get to the lands and still keep your current bolt stop. Below are the measurements for each mag length and as you can see there is only a small jump between the M and M+, but a pretty big jump to the LA with requires the longer bolt stop. I have had no feeding issues so far using M+ mags in my 308 or 7/08 Tikka’s.Don’t the short actions have a spacer at the back? So if you got a longer mag it takes out the spacer so your bolt wouldn’t pick up the shell without a different bolt stop. I had to get a different mag when i switched out my bolt stop. Unless the m+ mag increases the length forward of the tip.
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This is good information.... thank you. I swapped my bolt stop and mag out a few years ago so I haven't really paid attention to what's new but that's great info.The M+ mags are just a tad longer in the back then the M mags, but allow you to get to the lands and still keep your current bolt stop. Below are the measurements for each mag length and as you can see there is only a small jump between the M and M+, but a pretty big jump to the LA with requires the longer bolt stop. I have had no feeding issues so far using M+ mags in my 308 or 7/08 Tikka’s.
M (308) 2.83in
M+ (6.5 Creedmoor) 2.98in
LA (30-06) 3.37in
I had a lot of Hornady custom magnum in the old interbonds. One shot and done on every animal. Unfortunately I ran out over the years and Hornady replaced the custom line with the superformance. I wanted something that would hold together for the speed goats. I tried the GMX and so far shoots great. However like the other brands of monos, the velocity needs to be around 2k ft per sec. to initiate expansion.Likely you found it my tikka loves hornady sst
I like the looks of those kinds of stocks... and I really like the idea of being able to stuff into the pack possibly... but I think for hunting it's best to just go with a more traditional type of composite or nylon stock. I mean I suppose it would depend on the kind of habitat you're going thru, certainly, but I tend to need to bust thru stuff there that butt-stock configuration on that XLR I could see that snaggin on everything. And... another thing I learned from using my lever-action as well as an AR... is that if you happen to have to need to lay that rifle out across a stone or other large flat surface like that... things like the lever loop (mine has the big-loop lever, since my hands are XL), or a vertical pistol-grip (as opposed to a regular pistol-grip sloping part of the stock on your regular hunting rifles) and if you're trying to take a rested shot, quickly... doing so not awkwardly and remaining quiet when your quarry is only like 35yd away can be more tricky. Since the foreend then needs to be raised up more than the height of just your hand/fist supporting underneath of the foreend can do for you, since the surface you're resting it upon may be long and flat may not provide you with an opportunity to have those taller parts hanging down from the rifle be able to hang over the edge of the surface always. Ended up scratching the bottom of my lever-gun a lil bit from that one. Not that I care about the scratches. I just didn't care for the extra awkwardness in taking that particular kind of shot resting upon a stone like that. But that sit location was the best choice to remain unseen on that area I was watching over at the time.To answer your original question, take a look at the XLR element magnesium chassis. Super happy with mine, around 2lbs w/folder option.