Tikka Grouping Issue

[mxgsfmdpx]

I’d let the magazine be my guide—if you have to really push tight to seat the mag, washers may be better. If not, you can cause issues with feeding if you went too far with washers.

This is the way.

 

[nettereo16]

Very helpful feedback everyone, thanks.

To summarize what I’ll do next:
-fully free float barrel all the way to action
-file action screws slightly, make sure recoil lug is bedded correctly, degrease & torque to 55in/#
-inspect crown
-try different ammo choices
-try without suppressor

Answers to some of the new questions:
-10 rounds groups
-I did not shoot this gun before getting it cut down, I don’t know if it was a “shooter” before. It’s a used barrel with unknown round count but it’s a 223 and appears in good shape. That said, no one sells their “shooter”
-I’m not an expert shooter but shooting off a bipod and rear bag I am steady at 100. It’s a 223 so I’m not recoil anticipating

It’s a new SWFA scope so unless it came faulty, hopefully not the scope. I feel confident in my ring mounting so I won’t touch scope or rings until I rule out the above.

 

[sndmn11]

Wouldn’t that change the spacing of the feed ramp and front of the magazine? Maybe not enough to cause an issue, or maybe it would?

Yes it does.

I think @Jimbee does like me and puts washers in the hollow recess under the molded in washer things of the factory bottom. Nothing in-between the actual bottom plastic and the stock, but the little washers act as tiny pillars so that factory piece doesn't bend inward.

 

[Jimbee]

Wouldn’t that change the spacing of the feed ramp and front of the magazine? Maybe not enough to cause an issue, or maybe it would?

No issues for me, just prevents bottom plastic from getting bent/sucked in.

 

[BLJ]

73 ELDM’s did well in mine.

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

Very helpful feedback everyone, thanks.

To summarize what I’ll do next:
-fully free float barrel all the way to action
-file action screws slightly, make sure recoil lug is bedded correctly, degrease & torque to 55in/#
-inspect crown
-try different ammo choices
-try without suppressor

Answers to some of the new questions:
-10 rounds groups
-I did not shoot this gun before getting it cut down, I don’t know if it was a “shooter” before. It’s a used barrel with unknown round count but it’s a 223 and appears in good shape. That said, no one sells their “shooter”
-I’m not an expert shooter but shooting off a bipod and rear bag I am steady at 100. It’s a 223 so I’m not recoil anticipating

It’s a new SWFA scope so unless it came faulty, hopefully not the scope. I feel confident in my ring mounting so I won’t touch scope or rings until I rule out the above.

Any updates?

 

[sdupontjr]

you don't have to file the screws down. I had the same problem with my CTR bottom metal. The washer that is made into the OEM bottom metal was "giving" or "flexing" and allowing the screw to be screwed further into the stock. You can do a few different thing. Washers as others have mentioned. Some use a lamp nipple and make bedding lugs for the bolts. I used some SS tubing I had. I extended it below the bottom of the stock so that when the bottom metal is installed, the small bottom metal washer now bottoms out on the SS tube. I torque to 65 now with no issues. I also free floated the barrel so 2 index cards stacked would slide with no issues.

 

[nettereo16]

Any updates?

Inlaws were in town this weekend so didnt get to shoot. I did verify the crown was okay, freefloated "hotdog down a hallway", and shaved the bolts - though I kind of wish I did the pillars like in the post above.

I'll likely run to the gun store tomorrow to get some different ammo and shoot sometime this week