Tikka after 19,000+ rounds (M595 and T3’s)

SDHNTR

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Haha. The olive oil thing actually started on my carry pistols. 1911’s need oil to run correctly, however I hate toxic crap on my skin, and don’t like even non toxic stuff in my clothes and hands, breathing it, etc. So, tried Olive oil one day when I noticed the pistol was dry, it worked well and have kept using it.


No, I generally not worry about rust on screw and recoil lugs. I do not want any oil or lube that can migrate to the action screws or base screws. I choose stainless when I can, and even better melonite.
With blued guns I wipe a light coat of oil on the metal except for the action thread holes, place in stock them use acetone on Q-Tips to degrease the threads again, then paint pen, torque and mark them. Unless the rifle gets absolutely soaked I do not pull it out of the stock. If I do remove it, the while process is repeated.
Try oil resistant Loctite. 243 instead of 242.
 

PlumberED

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I’m impressed with the durability of that rifle. After reading your various posts I quit cleaning my rifles. Now shooting is fun. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I have learned quite a bit since joining Rokslide.
 
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Formidilosus

Formidilosus

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Shoot2HuntU
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I’m impressed with the durability of that rifle. After reading your various posts I quit cleaning my rifles. Now shooting is fun. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I have learned quite a bit since joining Rokslide.

Good equipment will handle a lot more than people think. On the flip side, most equipment will handle a lot less than people think.
 
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A buddy of mine has 2 Tikka M595 Master Sporters...one in 308 and the other in 223. There is nothing on this green earth that could convince him to sell one to me. Attempts to beg/borrow/steal one have also failed 😁
 

PlumberED

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A buddy of mine has 2 Tikka M595 Master Sporters...one in 308 and the other in 223. There is nothing on this green earth that could convince him to sell one to me. Attempts to beg/borrow/steal one have also failed 😁
Not to derail this thread but I’m curious, was the M595 the forerunner to the T3x?
 

5811

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It’s been totally abused, beat on, thrown off of buildings and thrown across ranges; been shot heavily from -20° to over 140°
Over 140?! That's crazy. Thanks, global warming.

I can see throwing it across a range to prove a point, but off buildings? I'd appreciate hearing that story.
 

JGRaider

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Not to derail this thread but I’m curious, was the M595 the forerunner to the T3x?
It was the short action version prior to the Tikka T3. The 695 is the long action version. I've had one in 7mag for almost 25 years. Prior to the 595/695 models, Tikka made the LSA models for Ithaca, which have stamped "Bofors Steel" right on the barrels like the older Sako's had.
 

Moose83

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In the same spirit, this is a T3 in 223 that is all factory. I did switch a T3x stock in it for the vertical grip. For a while it was in a KRG Bravo chassis as well. It also has close to, or just over 20,000 documented rounds on it, with between 5,000-10,000 random rounds.

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It was just sprayed out about two months ago because of shooting it for a week in a very windy sandy area.

This rifle is the single most shot bolt action I currently have. It has been used to take well over a hundred game animals all the way to multiple Elk, has been shot and beat on from -20° to over 130°, has been shot in matches, and totally trashed since it was new. Those rounds came from October 2014 I believe until now, with most in the first few years.


The scope has over 40,000 rounds on it, with the last 20’ish K on this rifle-
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If I'm reading this correctly, this rifle has 25-30 000 rounds on it? Has it ever been rebarrelled or is it still the original tube?
 
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Formidilosus

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Over 140?! That's crazy. Thanks, global warming.

I can see throwing it across a range to prove a point, but off buildings? I'd appreciate hearing that story.


Oh just a stupid moment of “wood stocks are fragile”. It caused a superficial crack, but otherwise was fine.


If I'm reading this correctly, this rifle has 25-30 000 rounds on it? Has it ever been rebarrelled or is it still the original tube?

Yes. Something like that. I can only guarantee about 20k as I stopped keeping track after that. At around 14,000 rounds I thought the barrel was close to going as 10 round groups had gotten to over 1.4 MOA. However, I had it cut and threaded for a suppressor for the season, and it went right back to .9 to 1.1 MOA for ten. I would not have expected it to last that long, yet there are quite a few people on the forum that have shot that rifle and seen it shot for thousands of rounds.
 

Moose83

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Oh just a stupid moment of “wood stocks are fragile”. It caused a superficial crack, but otherwise was fine.




Yes. Something like that. I can only guarantee about 20k as I stopped keeping track after that. At around 14,000 rounds I thought the barrel was close to going as 10 round groups had gotten to over 1.4 MOA. However, I had it cut and threaded for a suppressor for the season, and it went right back to .9 to 1.1 MOA for ten. I would not have expected it to last that long, yet there are quite a few people on the forum that have shot that rifle and seen it shot for thousands of rounds.
Sounds like you need an energizer bunny sticker for that thing. I definitely have a long way to go to catch up with mine.
 

mxgsfmdpx

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Where the hell, other than hell, does it get 140 degrees?
Felt ground temperatures here in Arizona, with outgoing radiation combined with incoming radiation is WAY hotter than the airport air temp reading. I’ve temp gunned rocks on a 118 degree day that were 145 degrees.
 

SDHNTR

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Felt ground temperatures here in Arizona, with outgoing radiation combined with incoming radiation is WAY hotter than the airport air temp reading. I’ve temp gunned rocks on a 118 degree day that were 145 degrees.
No thank you
 

scrubolio

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Nov 21, 2023
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Haha. The olive oil thing actually started on my carry pistols. 1911’s need oil to run correctly, however I hate toxic crap on my skin, and don’t like even non toxic stuff in my clothes and hands, breathing it, etc. So, tried Olive oil one day when I noticed the pistol was dry, it worked well and have kept using it.


No, I generally not worry about rust on screw and recoil lugs. I do not want any oil or lube that can migrate to the action screws or base screws. I choose stainless when I can, and even better melonite.
With blued guns I wipe a light coat of oil on the metal except for the action thread holes, place in stock them use acetone on Q-Tips to degrease the threads again, then paint pen, torque and mark them. Unless the rifle gets absolutely soaked I do not pull it out of the stock. If I do remove it, the while process is repeated.
sorry to revive an old thread.

I hate toxic crap on my skin as well. So I can use a light coat of olive oil to help lube and prevent rust on my blued tikka?

I'm going to have to try and use olive oil on my glock!

Will the olive oil start turning into brownish crud (I think its the polymerization of the oil) after going through heat cycles?
 
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