Tikka after 19,000+ rounds (M595 and T3’s)

[dreamingWest]

Kidding obviously.
I'm in a good mood today. November eve might be my favorite day of the year.

 

[SDHNTR]

Why non-chlorinated?

Chlorinated is highly corrosive. Both kinds are surely bad for you to breathe, but the chlorinated is likely worse (depending on what is used alternatively). And you absolutely don’t ever want to weld (or anything else involving high heat) over either type, but especially the chlorinated type. That can be fatal!

 

[SDHNTR]

Yes, that’s white athletic to medical tape. It was used to make ad hoc BDC turrets.







The worry over “plastic” on Tikkas is one of the greatest BS myths out there in all of gundom. The only “plastic” on current T3’s are the bottom metal and magazine. For a variety of reasons good polymer is better in very cold conditions most of them time than steel or metal. The magazine would be worse if it were metal, so that’s a nonstarter; and the bottom “metal” polymer is beyond tough enough for the job and is much nicer than a metal one in the cold. I’ve used multiple aftermarket metal ones and have replaced them all with factory ones.

While true, some of us just have entirely aesthetic/subjective preferences for metal over plastic on firearms. It just doesn’t feel right to me. Hell, I still just can’t can’t get used to a Glock also. Hand me a Beretta 92 any day!

Also, you can now get white Gorrila tape. Awesome stuff. I use it for marking things on my scopes.

 

[Formidilosus]

While true, some of us just have entirely aesthetic/subjective preferences for metal over plastic on firearms. It just doesn’t feel right to me. Hell, I still just can’t can’t get used to a Glock also. Hand me a Beretta 92 any day!

I get it. As we’ve discussed, my subjective preference is Pre 64 M70’s. If they worked as well in this type of use, round counts, etc, I would choose them most times.

Also, you can now get white Gorrila tape. Awesome stuff. I use it for marking things on my scopes.

Yes sir.

 

[SDHNTR]

I get it. As we’ve discussed, my subjective preference is Pre 64 M70’s. If they worked as well in this type of use, round counts, etc, I would choose them most times.





Yes sir.

I just dropped a refurb’d K4 on my pre-64 today!

 

[Formidilosus]

I just dropped a refurb’d K4 on my pre-64 today!

Yeah!

Chambering/style?

 

[kevlar88]

The stock is looking a bit washed out, and needs to be waxed- sitting by the fire now to warm up to do so.

@Formidilosus,
I have a CZ stock that's not all to far behind yours, what do you use to oil and rewax?
I've used Johnson paste wax in the past just don't have anything to compare it to.

 

[Formidilosus]

@Formidilosus,
I have a CZ stock that's not all to far behind yours, what do you use to oil and rewax?
I've used Johnson paste wax in the past just don't have anything to compare it to.

I haven’t found anything that stands out. Lots of people say lots of things. I’ve used several different ones- including olive oil.

This time was this because we have hand made cutting boards we use it in and it was available-

 

[kevlar88]

Ha, that's funny, the wife just got some fancy bees wax for our cutting board. I'll probably just stick with the johnson's since there's plenty of it already just sitting in the garage (and I wont get any grief from her).

 

[SDHNTR]

FWIW, I use Johnsons on my wood stocks too.

 

[Balderdash]

I had one of the plastic bolt shrouds break. My fault. Was swapping a bolt stop out to an XL version, forgot I had the stop out and accidentally dropped the bolt onto concrete after pulling it out of the action.

At that time the only option for a non plastic model was to go aftermarket. Replaced it with an Atlasworxs metal shroud. Other than that, the rest have been tough as nails.

 

[HighUintas]

I would strip off any remaining finish and apply laurel mountain forge permalyn sealer. Hard as nails, very weatherproof, and can be made to look like a hand rubbed oil finish if so desired.

Or you could just heat the stock with a heat gun or hair dryer and apply beeswax until it won't soak up anymore.

 

[kevlar88]

@Tock-O
I was going to take your advice just to try something new, but look like no one wants to ship to Hawaii for a reasonable rate or even at all so looks like I'll just be using what's available. Thanks

 

[rbutcher1234]

Not to necro- post, but I’m curious what kind of lube these tikkas are getting.

@Formidilosus when you pull the bolts every couple thousand, are you using clp or getting more exotic with a grease or other oil?

I’ve always just wiped my AI bolts with a rag, squirted some oil (like slip2000) on the lugs, and called it a day.

 

[Formidilosus]

Not to necro- post, but I’m curious what kind of lube these tikkas are getting.

@Formidilosus when you pull the bolts every couple thousand, are you using clp or getting more exotic with a grease or other oil?

I’ve always just wiped my AI bolts with a rag, squirted some oil (like slip2000) on the lugs, and called it a day.

That works. I actually generally use olive oil because when I remember it’s usually in the house and it’s available.

 

[Marbles]

That works. I actually generally use olive oil because when I remember it’s usually in the house and it’s available.

Form, I already have stopped babying stuff because of you, but you got some half admirable and half shocked profanity with that one.

I have rust on any name stainless part within 24 to 48 hours of most field use due to how wet it is. Do you ust not care if action screws, recoil lug, Etc have rust on them?

 

[nobody]

That works. I actually generally use olive oil because when I remember it’s usually in the house and it’s available.

Same on the bolt lug faces? Or do you use grease?

 

[Formidilosus]

Form, I already have stopped babying stuff because of you, but you got some half admirable and half shocked profanity with that one.

I have rust on any name stainless part within 24 to 48 hours of most field use due to how wet it is. Do you ust not care if action screws, recoil lug, Etc have rust on them?

Haha. The olive oil thing actually started on my carry pistols. 1911’s need oil to run correctly, however I hate toxic crap on my skin, and don’t like even non toxic stuff in my clothes and hands, breathing it, etc. So, tried Olive oil one day when I noticed the pistol was dry, it worked well and have kept using it.


No, I generally not worry about rust on screw and recoil lugs. I do not want any oil or lube that can migrate to the action screws or base screws. I choose stainless when I can, and even better melonite.
With blued guns I wipe a light coat of oil on the metal except for the action thread holes, place in stock them use acetone on Q-Tips to degrease the threads again, then paint pen, torque and mark them. Unless the rifle gets absolutely soaked I do not pull it out of the stock. If I do remove it, the while process is repeated.

 

[Formidilosus]

Same on the bolt lug faces? Or do you use grease?

I’ll use any oil basically for bolt guns. For AR’s, wheel bearing grease and motor oil.

 

[rbutcher1234]

I’ll use any oil basically for bolt guns. For AR’s, wheel bearing grease and motor oil.

All the pearl clutching worried people who are concerned about bolt rifle lug galling are going to have a stroke reading that….


Thanks for answering questions. Always enlightening!