Thumb release draw length increase

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Jun 19, 2019
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For those of you who have switched from a wrist strap style release to a thumb release, how much has your draw length increased by? I have been considering doing this, but I have a prime logic so that might make things difficult


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Release shouldn't affect draw length. You set your draw length to achieve proper form, and then you anchor differently per release.

I personally use two or three different wrist releases, 3 handhelds, no changes in DL.
 
Makes sense, I had heard somebody say that you might have to go with a different DL when switching releases, thought I might see how true that was


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I will be using both a thumb and index and will leave my draw length the same its always been. As long as the string just touches the tip of your nose when at fill draw you are in good shape. Release aids then adjust according to that.
 
I had to lengthen my d loop when I switched to a hinge to achieve a better anchor point. Draw length stayed the same.


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depends on the release. Some thumb releases have long heads and some have short heads. That will change string position even if anchoring the same.
 
depends on the release. Some thumb releases have long heads and some have short heads. That will change string position even if anchoring the same.
I view it a little differently.

Your "front half" - Bow, bow arm, string position all stay the same. This is what determines the draw length.

Your "back half" - Draw arm, anchor, release, D loop change together.
 
Yes, you can make adjustments on your back half to shoot the same draw length on your bow.... but it doesn't change the fact that your draw length could have changed.

I switched from a trigger release anchoring the crotch between my thumb and index finger on my jawbone to a tension release anchoring the backside of my hand with my index and middle finger split on my jaw. Same contact point on my nose and corner of my mouth... draw length increased 1/2".

Too many variables to say it stays the same or not. Ed F
 
My DL is the same for both my thumb release and wrist-strap. I have to adjust my peep slightly though, due to the change in anchor point.
 
Yes, you can make adjustments on your back half to shoot the same draw length on your bow.... but it doesn't change the fact that your draw length could have changed.

I switched from a trigger release anchoring the crotch between my thumb and index finger on my jawbone to a tension release anchoring the backside of my hand with my index and middle finger split on my jaw. Same contact point on my nose and corner of my mouth... draw length increased 1/2".

Too many variables to say it stays the same or not. Ed F

Don't agree, if the string stays at the same point on your nose, and you're not dropping or raising your bow arm, bending it, collapsing your bow shoulder, or moving your head - then draw length stays the same.

If you choose to change the front half too, that can change your draw length.. But in my view you're then making a compromise, whether it be conscious or not.

I personally maintain the same front half, and then find an anchor that works for me depending on the release. Usually with a wrist release it means I need to run them as short as possible with the trigger all the way up in the bend of the finger while under tension...
 
I view it a little differently.

Your "front half" - Bow, bow arm, string position all stay the same. This is what determines the draw length.

Your "back half" - Draw arm, anchor, release, D loop change together.

I would add, the D loop controls the draw arm elbow and anchor position. Other than that, spot on. Draw length sets the string position to the face.
 
Don't agree, if the string stays at the same point on your nose, and you're not dropping or raising your bow arm, bending it, collapsing your bow shoulder, or moving your head - then draw length stays the same.

If you choose to change the front half too, that can change your draw length.. But in my view you're then making a compromise, whether it be conscious or not.

I personally maintain the same front half, and then find an anchor that works for me depending on the release. Usually with a wrist release it means I need to run them as short as possible with the trigger all the way up in the bend of the finger while under tension...

If you're changing your anchor to fit your release, you're most likely finding a compromise at the back end to fit your draw length. I did it differently. I started with my release and anchor... then found my right draw length. My anchor on the tension release is lower, peep sight higher, thus the longer draw length. My anchor an peep sight are different for each release. No way I could shoot both releases out of one setup.

Apples and oranges.... Ed F
 
Two schools of thought I guess, but I'd much rather change the back end arm position and anchor than compromise the front end. Less pin float for me that way keeping good alignment.

I also personally feel like shooting multiple releases makes me a better archer. Hinge, tension, thumb, wrist all interchangeable for me wiithout any changes. My process: For a handheld, I use first two fingers and knuckles on either side of the jaw, string at the tip of the nose, peep centered, and string at a repeatable place at the corner of my mouth - 4 points of reference. Switching to a wrist release, the only thing that changes with my setup is a knuckle behind my jaw under my ear.

And none of this is an issue if you just shoot one release. Just get your setup comfortable and go...
 
I think the point is the bow draw length setting may need to change so you can maintain the same anchor point. YOUR DL will be the same. Picture is for 2 of my releases, obvious different d loop contact points.
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I think the point is the bow draw length setting may need to change so you can maintain the same anchor point. YOUR DL will be the same. Picture is for 2 of my releases, obvious different d loop contact points.

No, If your Bow DL setting changes, your draw length changes. Draw length is measured as the distance from the "throat" of the grip, to the inside of the string at full draw, plus 1.75", it's a standard formula. Change the setting, that changes, and it has zero to do with your D-loop.

If you switch releases and want to maintain the same anchor, you may or may not need to change: Draw length, d loop, release strap length (if wrist). In some cases, it's physically not possible to maintain the same point, e.g. changing from a 2-finger thumb button handheld to a wrist strap index trigger.
 
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