Thread locker for Suppressor

[wildernessrimfab]

I use red locktite on the supressor end cap (direct mount) on nomad 30 Ti.
Also, a tiny dab of copper anti seize on the barrel threads.

Before the red locktite I had the supressor end cap unscrew from the nomad and stay on the barrel.

I can remove the can with my hands, I basically tighten it about 3/4 grunt and I have always been able to get it off without a wrench.

 

[Kurts86]

The TBAC guys specifically advise using Red Loctite 272 and not Rocksett so that's what I just got to put on a new CB brake. I just had to order it online.

Yeah I found this out the hard way when a CB brake carbon locked in my can and broke my 271 loose on a hunting trip. I called tbac and they went over it with me.

 

[WannaBeRambo]

Gonna take this in a new direction.
Have had SiCo Hybrid with DT bravo mount since 2016. Figured out teflon plumbers tape is the best.

You will want to experiment since as you add carbon from shooting you progressively need less.

The best practice in the case of threading the bravo mount to the barrel, only add tape to maybe 1-2mm threads closest to barrel shoulder. Don’t tape all the threads to barrel end.
You only need 2-4 turns of tape around the barrel shoulder area.
I only wipe the threads with an old Tshirt leaving a little residual oil, no need to get anal about removing all of it.

It doesn’t matter it shreds the tape as you thread the can, or that it bunches up. The idea is to gum upthe works just enough to lock it down while shooting, but not enough you have to ape it off when done.

Teflon plumbers tape won’t burn up or gum up anything a brass or stiff bristle brush can remove.

For the bravo to suppressor thread, I tape all the width of the threads. Since I never disassemble the hybrid, I will do 3-6 turns of tape around the threads. Easy way to do this is thread the bravo to the barrel (without tape), then thread the can to the bravo to get easy tool-less leverage.

Cheap, easy, works.

 

[Cosmono]

I just use red loctite.

 

[Geewhiz]

I just use red loctite.

Works until it gets hot.

 

[Marbles]

Loctite doesn't hold at high heat. Rockset does.

My adapters are rockset to my barrels, I have nickel anti seize on the threads between adapter and can and crank the can down as tight as I can by hand.

 

[wildernessrimfab]

Works until it gets hot.

I suppose it depends on the length of your shot strings. Ive had red loctite holding the front cap of my can on for 2+ yrs and its holding strong...then again I usually shoot max strings of 3-5 before cooling. My worry with rockset on the supressor cap was that it might hold too well!

 

[Lawnboi]

I suppose it depends on the length of your shot strings. Ive had red loctite holding the front cap of my can on for 2+ yrs and its holding strong...then again I usually shoot max strings of 3-5 before cooling. My worry with rockset on the supressor cap was that it might hold too well!

It’s only got to hold it till there’s enough carbon to hold it on there.

 

[wind gypsy]

It’s only got to hold it till there’s enough carbon to hold it on there.

Exactly. I've never used rokset or loctite on any muzzle devices. Crank shit tight enough and it seems to stay put long enough for carbon to do the rest. Long as you dont have reversed threads and have competing forces when things are going on/off, i dislike that.

 

[Blackstewart]

I became a true gentleman this weekend and got my first suppressor, a silencer co scythe Ti.

do you guys recommend a thread locker to secure the Bravo mount to the suppressor? The manual recommends rockset- I know nothing about that stuff. Is this the way to go or is something else better?

Do you degrease the threads? The manual says not to use acetone. Curious if that is a rule or a suggestion.

Call Silencer Co. They have experts on staff that deal with suppressors all day every day.

 

[MTRaine]

I use green loctite on my hub mount for my can. So far no problems. Green handles way more heat than red loctite. As far as concern about the suppressor coming off the barrel I'm a big plan B person but that's just me.

 

[686]

To second [mention]WannaBeRambo [/mention] , I also use teflon plumbing tape on my suppressors*. I tape the entirety of the threads and a little on the barrel shoulder, and I’ve never had one come loose during shooting, shot a few thousand rounds this way. The nice part is that it’s easy to get the suppressor off for cleaning/swapping rifles. My SIG QDX doesn’t develop much carbon build up, but my AB Raptor really collects carbon. Like an ounce over 2-300 rounds if I recall; I like to clean it out, open the space back up.

* I have a lot of experience with threaded pluming fittings and teflon tape and getting a good feel for the amount of tape needed to get the fittings really tight right about the time the threads bottom out. Use teflon tape at your own risk, I’m not recommending anyone else do this, but it works for me.

 

[PlumberED]

To second [mention]WannaBeRambo [/mention] , I also use teflon plumbing tape on my suppressors*. I tape the entirety of the threads and a little on the barrel shoulder, and I’ve never had one come loose during shooting, shot a few thousand rounds this way. The nice part is that it’s easy to get the suppressor off for cleaning/swapping rifles. My SIG QDX doesn’t develop much carbon build up, but my AB Raptor really collects carbon. Like an ounce over 2-300 rounds if I recall; I like to clean it out, open the space back up.

* I have a lot of experience with threaded pluming fittings and teflon tape and getting a good feel for the amount of tape needed to get the fittings really tight right about the time the threads bottom out. Use teflon tape at your own risk, I’m not recommending anyone else do this, but it works for me.

Teflon tape is very effective for preventing direct thread suppressors from loosening. You don’t need a whole lot, just a wrap or two.

 

[Antares]

I just had the adapter on my .223 Tikka come off with the suppressor (came off easily, by hand, no tools). It was originally installed with red loctite. I'm reinstalling with rocksett.

 

[WiscoHoundsman]

Any advice for removing a bravo direct thread mount from a scythe? I had put rockset on it 2-3 drops and when removing the can last weekend it came out 2 revs and locked up. Assuming soaking in water should help but I tried over night and could barely move it. The little wrench is a pain on that back piece. Trying to hold flat bar and twist the can while applying downward pressure.

 

[MagnumHntr]

Any advice for removing a bravo direct thread mount from a scythe? I had put rockset on it 2-3 drops and when removing the can last weekend it came out 2 revs and locked up. Assuming soaking in water should help but I tried over night and could barely move it. The little wrench is a pain on that back piece. Trying to hold flat bar and twist the can while applying downward pressure.

Soak the can in hot water (almost boiling) for 30 min, Have the bravo wrench clamped in a vice flush. then put the can on the wrench and use the top splined tool to remove the can from the direct thread mount.

 

[wind gypsy]

Any advice for removing a bravo direct thread mount from a scythe? I had put rockset on it 2-3 drops and when removing the can last weekend it came out 2 revs and locked up. Assuming soaking in water should help but I tried over night and could barely move it. The little wrench is a pain on that back piece. Trying to hold flat bar and twist the can while applying downward pressure.

I've clamped the SiCo wrench in a vise prongs up so I could focus on pushing the can down into it and twisting rather than trying to manage both the can and the wrench at the same time. Worked.

edit: what MagnumHntr said above!

 

[WiscoHoundsman]

Thanks! The advice on using a bench vice worked. Still took a ton of effort but I got it.

Now to let things dry and then clean and rockset the bravo adapter into the can.

 

[RockAndSage]

Some stuff that needs to be taken into account:

1) Muzzle temps: Gas at the muzzle of a rifle barrel is about 1500-2000F. It's just a flash, but repeated flashes heat up the metals of the barrel and suppressor. Steel starts turning red at about 850-900F, and it's easy to get a can glowing. Whatever thread locker you're using needs to be good beyond 800F - if it's not, then what's holding your suppressor on isn't really the thread locker after that.

2) "Carbon": The fouling in your suppressor and on your threads is not carbon. It's almost entirely welded/brazed lead and copper particulate. Those two materials are atomizing in the bore in temps as high as 5000F in the casing, and 4000F up to 6" from the throat, down to 1500-2000F at the muzzle - temps far exceeding their melting points. Those atoms are then pressure-fused together during their travel. Under a microscope they're mostly spherical. Under the high pressures at the muzzle and inside the can, those semi-molten spheres are being explosively blasted against the steel of the gun parts - that's why some suppressors essentially get welded onto their threads. Carbon is fairly brittle, and virtually absent from that fouling - the carbon in the propellants is going out the muzzle converted to other gasses, not as carbon atoms. It will be easier to soak off something like rockset, than to heat up the threads to the point the lead and copper melt enough to release. It will also be easier to clean those threads afterward.

3) Teflon: The melting point of Teflon is 620F. What comes out is a chemical $h*t storm of corrosive, carcinogenic, and toxic gases. In particular for this application, it releases Hydrogen Fluoride - which turns into Hydrofluoric Acid (one of the most acidic substances known) when coming into contact with humidity or moisture. Back in the 1980s and 1990s bullet and bore coatings were experimented with quite a bit. With PTFE/Teflon, it plasticizes/polymerizes and sticks to the bore. Under those decomposed teflon deposits was substantial pitting in the barrel steel from the acids. That teflon tape on muzzles may be holding the suppressor on through increased friction, but it may not be a good idea to repeat the teflon/muzzle gas experiments of the past on those muzzle threads.