Thoughts on Switching from Ring Bases to a Rail Base

[Desert Dan]

I've been playing around with the idea of switching from a set of scope ring bases to a zero MOA base. If I go with a base I was thinking simple tasks like double checking scope level and removing and replacing the scope would be much simpler. I'm currently running a Swaro Z5 on medium Talley rings. Before I did anything I wanted to see if there is any reason why it might not be a good idea, i.e. change to the scope height or something. Any thoughts are welcome. Thanks.

 

[Bezamaelee]

I’m interested in this response. Been thinking the same thing.

 

[Ndbowhunter]

3 main reasons for me

most receivers are not perfectly level. Rather bed a rail then to lap rings to get everything tidy.

most dedicated rings are beefier then Talleys

It’s probably in your best interest maximize rings spacing.

 

[vermeire]

For me it depends on the rifle. On a gun with a DBM I don't think I'd mind. On one with a blind mag or drop plate I don't like the way the rail bridges over the chamber. It makes loading/unloading a little more difficult. It's a small weight difference too. Both minor but things to consider.

 

[Wrench]

on my hunting weight (<8# all up) rigs, I like to hold my rifle by sliding my hand between the scope and rifle with the scope on my knuckle side. This allows me to have it in my hands and can be on my shoulder ready in no time. My carry hand is close enough to my preferred location for a quick shot.

I cant do this with a rail.

I own lots of both. Rails are great for swapping optics and if bedded they'll make you feel better about failure.

I like the Hawkins rings on rem rigs because I get the cant plus my carry style works...and they're tough.

A hack is to run wby/howa talleys on a rem for 20ish moa cant on a Remington.

People will say you'll get scope bite, but I have 3 or 4 rigs I've done this on with 100% success.

 

[Desert Dan]

Thanks for the input. I have a feeling this might end up being a moot point because if I go to a base it'll likely be a 20 MOA anyway. The gun is a lightweight hunting rifle, not a long range target gun but I think the benefits of adding the extra elevation for when I do want to play around with longer shots combined with the benefits of the rail will make the change worth it.
Thanks again for your thoughts. Very helpful!

 

[Wrench]

FYI, the Howa talley on a 700 as well as the Hawkins will add the 25 moa (20 with talleys) cant without a rail.

 

[blkqi]

There is very little downside to a rail. A few thoughts:

On a bolt action a rail may block part of the breech opening, which can make it more difficult to hand-feed rounds. It weighs more, but you can offset this with lightweight versions like Warne's Mountain Tech models.

A rail may or may not be a more precise base then the receiver directly.

You should compare your scope elevation specs to your ballistics chart. You may have enough elevation for long range shots already.

 

[Desert Dan]

You should compare your scope elevation specs to your ballistics chart. You may have enough elevation for long range shots already.

Based on the Swaro and Hornady ballistic calculators I can get out to maybe 650 yards as is. Granted the velocities in those calculations have not been confirmed but the trajectory between 100 and 200 yards is close enough to ballpark it for now.

 

[AZ_Hunter_2000]

I have some rifles with just rings and others with a base and rings (separate pieces and also integrated). Both work just fine for me.

What turret do you have on your Z5? If you have the the BT then save your money as you will still be limited to 13.25 MOA once you set the zero stop. A 20 MOA rail will not do you any good.

 

[Desert Dan]

What turret do you have on your Z5? If you have the the BT then save your money as you will still be limited to 13.25 MOA once you set the zero stop. A 20 MOA rail will not do you any good.

Really? Maybe dumb question but can you explain why that is? I do have the BT model.

 

[AZ_Hunter_2000]

Really? Maybe dumb question but can you explain why that is? I do have the BT model.

When you install the zero lock, it limits your ability to twist the turret. Depending on what your hunt, where you hunt, and your caliber this limitation may or may not be an issue. It is for me.

I won a T3X in 6.5 CM and the Z5. I was excited until I got everything setup. I then realized that I was limited to about 650 yards on that rifle (200 yard zero plus 13.25 MOA). If you want to shoot further you either have to remove the zero stop or increase your zero (which still will enforce a limitation on you).

It is a great scope and I love the glass and weight. It has held up just fine dialing within its limitations. Nothing like winning a Swarovski scope and realizing that you have to replace it.

 

[Desert Dan]

Interesting. Yeah I see what you mean. I'll think it over I guess.

 

[Corvus Corax]

I was worried about loading rounds and the ejection of spent cartridges but it hasn’t been an issue. Warne Mountaintech rings and base have been great. I wanted to mount a scope with a short mounting surface on a long action rifle and didn’t want to mess with extended bases.

 

[Desert Dan]

I was worried about loading rounds and the ejection of spent cartridges but it hasn’t been an issue. Warne Mountaintech rings and base have been great. I wanted to mount a scope with a short mounting surface on a long action rifle and didn’t want to mess with extended bases.

Cool thank you.