First time mounting a scope

ForkLift

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Just received a scope along with rings and bases in the mail. The scope I ordered is a Trijicon Huron 3-9x40 and went with Talley steel rings & bases. As the title says, first time doing this. Also, first hunting rifle (Im new.) I loosely attached everything to my rifle, a Winchester M70 in 30-06. The scope, set to its highest power, is too far away from where my head naturally rests on the stock. I have to move my head forward, uncomfortable, to meet the proper eye relief. It appears, that after rearranging the bases, that I am unable to adjust the scope anymore to get it closer. The base of the object lense is bottomed out against the front scope ring. Prior to ordering the rings/bases, I emailed Talley and was informed of what size I need to get. Is this issues something Im doing with the install or is this just not the right set-up? Would using a picatinny base with appropriate rings be the better option for adjusting the scope position? Ive read the Huron has a short eye relief, Id like to keep the scope because I got it at a really good price. Thanks.
 

sndmn11

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Show pictures so we can see what you have currently.


Your description (of steel) makes it sound like you have these

 

hereinaz

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Do not use the vertical split rings, if that is what you have.

I always use picatinny rails so that I can move the scope back far enough to get the right eye relief.

And, I like scopes mounted fairly high so that my neck and head aren’t crunched into an unstable situation.

Yes, post some pics.
 
Joined
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Do not use the vertical split rings, if that is what you have.
Seconded, don't use vertically split rings unless they're ARC ones and idk if those even count.

And, I like scopes mounted fairly high so that my neck and head aren’t crunched into an unstable situation.
Not enough people know/do this. Maybe not necessarily the OP (since his stock isn't adjustable) but there are a lot of people with adjustable cheekpieces on their stocks who have their scopes mounted a millimeter off the barrel because of 80+ year old "as low as you can go" advice that isn't relevant anymore.

And yes use a picatinny rail if you can, for better mounting options for eye relief. If you end up mounting a bit high, you can always get a pad for your stock to raise your cheek height.
 
OP
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ForkLift

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Show pictures so we can see what you have currently.


Your description (of steel) makes it sound like you have these

Those are the rings and bases
 
OP
F

ForkLift

FNG
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Do not use the vertical split rings, if that is what you have.

I always use picatinny rails so that I can move the scope back far enough to get the right eye relief.

And, I like scopes mounted fairly high so that my neck and head aren’t crunched into an unstable situation.

Yes, post some pics.
Ill try and get a photo up today. Whats wrong with vertical split rings?
 
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Would using a picatinny base with appropriate rings be the better option for adjusting the scope position?
I bought two Huron's recently and both were mounted with a rail, very easy to move back and forth as needed for eye relief when using a rail. I think this will probably solve your issue.
 

Macintosh

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Both of my trijicon scopes that are in non-pic-rail mounts needed to be mounted as far back as possible—the bell is as close to the front ring as its possible to get—so this sounds accurate to me. You may have no other choice except for a pic rail to move it back far enough.
 
OP
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ForkLift

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As for rings and a pic rail, should I stick with Talley? They make both. I went with their bases & rings because they offer in stainless and I like the QD feature, but after mounting, i no longer see the benefit of the QD.
 
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As for rings and a pic rail, should I stick with Talley? They make both. I went with their bases & rings because they offer in stainless and I like the QD feature, but after mounting, i no longer see the benefit of the QD.
I went with Warne Mountain Tech for the one and Leupold Backcountry set for the other, both are aluminum rails and rings. I like them both and they appear to be extremely high quality and strong. Since you mention the QD I'll throw out there that one of the great things about the pic rail system is you only ever need to torque and level the scope in the rings once, switching out scopes between rifles is incredibly easy. I'm slowly converting all my rifles out to a pic rail system. I use them infrequently enough that I can slap my best scope on a different rifle for a specific hunt, or lightest scope, etc.
 

MikeDeltaFoxtrot

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I have had good success with Warne Maxima vertically split rings on a number of rifles. Nothing wrong with them, and they are easy to work with. Need to see picture of what you have. If the objective is bottoming out on the rear sight, you may just need taller rings.
 

TaperPin

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As for rings and a pic rail, should I stick with Talley? They make both. I went with their bases & rings because they offer in stainless and I like the QD feature, but after mounting, i no longer see the benefit of the QD.
They do make a pic version of the detachable rings, but they aren’t stocked by most retailers. Those vertically steel rings have a good reputation in many circles, but the lack of bases are a limitation.

It’s good to try the scope from different shooting positions, and always get a good position, then slide the scope rearward until you just see a full field of veiw - this set the eye relief at its maximum and reduces scope cuts if you crawl the stock in a weird position.
 

MikeDeltaFoxtrot

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While the full length pic rail as a scope base has certain advantages as mentioned, it also has a few downsides. I have rifles set up with pic rails and also rifles with two piece bases. The main disadvantage of the full length rail, in my opinion, is that depending on your action type, it can reduced access to your ejection port, which impairs loading the rifle and checking the magazine and chamber. It is also heavier, although that may not matter to you. I own two Win 70's, and both have two piece bases. YMMV.
 
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Vertical split rings are either too loose on the base, allowing slippage, or they are too tight on the tube and damage the internals. They are also a nightmare for mounting the scope level. Couldn't give me another set.

Op, you need to to something to allow the scope to be repositioned. A Pic rail is probably the most practical option. Then follow this mounting process:
 

JFK

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I can’t get behind one piece pic rails on a model 70. I’d go with the Burris two piece pic bases. I’ve used them on a few rifles, never any issues and they afford you some adjustment fore and aft. They are also steel so sit lower to the action than aluminum.
 

TaperPin

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The eye relief is listed as 2.5” to 3.7” for that scope. That’s somewhat short and contributes to the problem. Another place said eye relief is 2.2” to 3.2”, which is worse.
 
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sndmn11

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As for rings and a pic rail, should I stick with Talley? They make both. I went with their bases & rings because they offer in stainless and I like the QD feature, but after mounting, i no longer see the benefit of the QD.

If you ordered direct, then yes I'd just ask for an exchange. Chris and Brian are easy to work with.

I have a few Talley rails, they are fine. The modern sporting pic ring is the choice of what they offer.
 
OP
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ForkLift

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The eye relief is listed as 2.5” to 3.7” for that scope. That’s somewhat short and contributes to the problem. Another place said eye relief is 2.2” to 3.2”, which is worse.
Id hate to ditch the scope and start over. I got it for a pretty good price. I just quickly checked the specs on a leupold and there is more room in terms of mounting space. Much to consider.
 
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I just mounted a Huron on my wife’s Ruger American. I had the same problem using the factory weaver style bases and switched to a DNZ pic rail. The DNZ rail seems higher than other options but other than that it works. The eye box is definitely tighter than the prostaff that came off of the gun.


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