Things to avoid in a new bow

[narwhal540]

Hey guys,

I'm looking to switch over to bow hunting in the future and kinda feel like I've been thrown in the deep end. There are countless posts around the internet about all the features that are great to have, but my main concern are the detrimental aspects a new bow may have.

For instance are there any features that could limit me as I figure out exactly what I need?

I'm on the fence between going for something cheap and effective for a few seasons or getting a nicer bow to begin with so long as adjustments can be made down the line. I plan on checking out a shop nearby sometime after Thanksgiving but would love any advice on what to avoid before I head in.

 

[Marble]

Hey guys,

I'm looking to switch over to bow hunting in the future and kinda feel like I've been thrown in the deep end. There are countless posts around the internet about all the features that are great to have, but my main concern are the detrimental aspects a new bow may have.

For instance are there any features that could limit me as I figure out exactly what I need?

I'm on the fence between going for something cheap and effective for a few seasons or getting a nicer bow to begin with so long as adjustments can be made down the line. I plan on checking out a shop nearby sometime after Thanksgiving but would love any advice on what to avoid before I head in.

If you are buying from a shop, be ok with going with one of the brands they carry. They are familiar with the bows, have the support to get warranty work and parts, and know how to tune them. You are buying a relationship as much as you are buying a bow.

When shopping to actually pick the bow, shoot as many as you can. One or two will stick out as your favorites.

If you have a standard draw length in the 28-29.5" range, you will have your choice of bows.

You will get a lot of opinion on what bow to get here and wherever else you ask. It's similar to Ford vs Chevy. So just keep that in mind.

Currently I shoot a Hoyt Axius Ultra. It's been trouble free, it's fast and stays in tune. My complaint is it hurts my elbows for awhile after I shoot it. And I shoot all year 4 to 5 times a week. This is probably do to hand shock which I don't feel, but I feel the affects of it. I'm going to try and reduce the hand shock but, I know if I can't, I'll have to replace it.

Good luck!

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[Samdemarais]

Buy a used bow from a local shop or a new mid level from a local shop. If you stick with the top brands your can’t go wrong, just personal preference. For the money and the string replacement deal you can’t go wrong with a new prime if you go that route.

 

[Kularrow]

Detrimental could mean string angles and axel to axel lengths relative to your draw length. This is a loaded question but you want to have a proper draw length, adequate arrows for your game and proper poundage for your abilities. Id recommend a bow that’s right for you, your abilities as a archer and your budget.

 

[Billy Goat]

List a few more specs.


Might be able to help, especially given the 540.

 

[HbDane]

Hey guys,

I'm looking to switch over to bow hunting in the future and kinda feel like I've been thrown in the deep end. There are countless posts around the internet about all the features that are great to have, but my main concern are the detrimental aspects a new bow may have.

For instance are there any features that could limit me as I figure out exactly what I need?

I'm on the fence between going for something cheap and effective for a few seasons or getting a nicer bow to begin with so long as adjustments can be made down the line. I plan on checking out a shop nearby sometime after Thanksgiving but would love any advice on what to avoid before I head in.

I was in the exact same boat you were. But being stubborn I thought I could at least start on my own. Big mistake. The first bow I bought had draw length specific cams and I didn't know my draw length. After throwing money away on a useless bow for me and taking a hit reselling it, I went down to a shop and got fitted. I told them I wanted to buy once cry once and that's exactly what I did. Besides learning a lot and having the shop help me with my bow, and accessories purchase, I also took lessons and got to build a relationship with the shop. I hunt with quite a few of the bow technicians and the owner when he can get away. Finding a "GOOD" shop is very helpful. Good luck on your journey.

 

[narwhal540]

List a few more specs.


Might be able to help, especially given the 540.

I'm still a bit unsure when it comes to specs:

• A broad weight adjustment would be nice as I get into archery.
• Draw length should be around the 29" length
• A shorter axle to axle length since I plan on ground hunting
• When it comes to the rest/sight/stabilizer I'm still relatively clueless, it seems a lot of these are up to preference but can also be changed later as I learn what I want
• Budget is ~$750 but could be pretty flexible depending on the situation
• I'll probably have a much better idea of these once I go to a shop (considering Hoffman Archery if you're from the area)

Regarding the 540, I'm up in the Fairfax, VA area and looking to dive into the Urban Archery program they have going up here.

 

[narwhal540]

I was in the exact same boat you were. But being stubborn I thought I could at least start on my own. Big mistake. The first bow I bought had draw length specific cams and I didn't know my draw length. After throwing money away on a useless bow for me and taking a hit reselling it, I went down to a shop and got fitted. I told them I wanted to buy once cry once and that's exactly what I did. Besides learning a lot and having the shop help me with my bow, and accessories purchase, I also took lessons and got to build a relationship with the shop. I hunt with quite a few of the bow technicians and the owner when he can get away. Finding a "GOOD" shop is very helpful. Good luck on your journey.

This is the exact sort of thing I was worried about. Coming from the rifle world where just about anything can be changed down the line I was hesitant to take the same view on bows. I'll definitely go to a shop and get properly fitted before I make any purchase.

 

[narwhal540]

Detrimental could mean string angles and axel to axel lengths relative to your draw length. This is a loaded question but you want to have a proper draw length, adequate arrows for your game and proper poundage for your abilities. Id recommend a bow that’s right for you, your abilities as a archer and your budget.

I see how it came off as a loaded question and should have worded my post a bit better. A more suitable way to phrase it would have been "what elements cannot be changed?" so things like axle to axle length, draw length, and poundage may be out of my fitment and should be avoided. On the other hand, things like sights and rests can be changed out as my skill level grows and don't necessarily warrant me avoiding them. The big thing I was trying to avoid was a situation like HbDane ended up in.

 

[Billy Goat]

I'm still a bit unsure when it comes to specs:

• A broad weight adjustment would be nice as I get into archery.
• Draw length should be around the 29" length
• A shorter axle to axle length since I plan on ground hunting
• When it comes to the rest/sight/stabilizer I'm still relatively clueless, it seems a lot of these are up to preference but can also be changed later as I learn what I want
• Budget is ~$750 but could be pretty flexible depending on the situation
• I'll probably have a much better idea of these once I go to a shop (considering Hoffman Archery if you're from the area)

Regarding the 540, I'm up in the Fairfax, VA area and looking to dive into the Urban Archery program they have going up here.

A lot of things with archery are preference. You definitely don't want a draw length specific cam, as many things can get you close, but ultimately, draw length is personal and can't be determined exactly off a few measurements.

Lots of really really good bows now, entry level stuff will kill a deer just as dead as any of the high end bows.

I personally haven't dealt with Hoffman before, they have a good reputation. A member here has or still works there. I'm across the mountain.

I wouldn't get hung up on ATA too much, I hunt from the ground with a stick bow and it's way longer than any compound, and I don't find it a hindrance outside of my own ability. Your accessories, maybe start cheap, but you likely won't get much for resale when/if you don't like them. If you start high end you can normally get pretty good resale from them. Guess it depends on what you ultimately are looking for and where you normally go with things. I'd bet I can take a truglo 3 pin sight and out shoot most, I prefer to have more features that ultimately don't add but so much. If that makes sense.


I think Two Rivers offers some lessons, but that might be limited to traditional archery. Might look that club up.

 

[Rob5589]

Detrimental IMO; ultra short ata bows, stiff drawing cams, very shallow valley, cams that cannot adjust draw length without needing new parts.

 

[Shootinsurveyor]

Hoffman does a good job. They will get you set up and their prices are reasonable on the things I have compared. Their shop is small so forget about it on a Saturday. Go during the week if possible and you will have a great experience. They will have a decent used inventory.

 

[Planopurist]

I have a bit of a different opinion on getting into archery/bow hunting. Most of what you see advertised and displayed on social media is slanted towards high end bows and accessories. IMO, I feel like the important things for beginners are as follows:

Reserve most of your budget for high end accessories: fall away rest, sight with 3rd axis adjustment, release, arrows (at least .003 straightness). The balance of your budget can be your spent on your bow.

Consider getting shooting lessons, particularly the proper release technique to avoid developing target panic.

Choose a bow with at least 31.5” axle-to-axle (ATA) length and longer brace height (minimum 6”, closer to 7”).


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[loganwayne]

You don’t really need a wide range of draw weights. That seems to be a bigger issue with kids or women. I also don’t think you have to be shooting a bow that’s 70 lbs. if I found a deal on a 50-60 lb bow I wouldn’t hesitate to get it. Also most states have a minimum draw weight I think most are around 45 lbs.

Draw length is going to be the most important thing to find that is correct

Everything has been pretty much covered.

I wouldn’t shy away from a used bow from a private seller once you knew your draw length but I’d ask them to meet you at a show to have it looked over.

I’d budget min. 100 dollars for arrows, and 150-200 for new strings and tune up on bow if going used. Don’t forget a release can easily run 100. That will get you started but don’t forget you’ll probably want a quiver and then broadheads later on that could cost a couple hundred to.

rest and sights can be as cheap or as expensive as you want them to be. I’d start on the cheaper end to start with to figure out what you prefer. Multi pin, single pin, multi pin with slider they can all be had used cheap for a mid grade setup and then resell if you don’t like for same price and try something else.

 

[VaHntr]

I'm still a bit unsure when it comes to specs:

• A broad weight adjustment would be nice as I get into archery.
• Draw length should be around the 29" length
• A shorter axle to axle length since I plan on ground hunting
• When it comes to the rest/sight/stabilizer I'm still relatively clueless, it seems a lot of these are up to preference but can also be changed later as I learn what I want
• Budget is ~$750 but could be pretty flexible depending on the situation
• I'll probably have a much better idea of these once I go to a shop (considering Hoffman Archery if you're from the area)

Regarding the 540, I'm up in the Fairfax, VA area and looking to dive into the Urban Archery program they have going up here.

I live in Fairfax as well. Go to Hoffman Archery. They know what they’re doing and will get you set up right.

I’m also in the Fairfax urban program. Glad to answer any Qs you have.

 

[narwhal540]

Hoffman does a good job. They will get you set up and their prices are reasonable on the things I have compared. Their shop is small so forget about it on a Saturday. Go during the week if possible and you will have a great experience. They will have a decent used inventory.

Glad to hear it, I'll see if I can swing by in the next couple weeks and see what I can learn.

 

[narwhal540]

I have a bit of a different opinion on getting into archery/bow hunting. Most of what you see advertised and displayed on social media is slanted towards high end bows and accessories. IMO, I feel like the important things for beginners are as follows:

Reserve most of your budget for high end accessories: fall away rest, sight with 3rd axis adjustment, release, arrows (at least .003 straightness). The balance of your budget can be your spent on your bow.

Consider getting shooting lessons, particularly the proper release technique to avoid developing target panic.

Choose a bow with at least 31.5” axle-to-axle (ATA) length and longer brace height (minimum 6”, closer to 7”).


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Kind of similar to how with buying the best glass you can and then you can use it on any platform you run in the gun world? It makes sense to me to invest in accessories as a beginner and then as you move to a new boy you can simply bring over your past equipment rather than getting a new bow and needing to replace all of the low-budget accessories.

 

[narwhal540]

I live in Fairfax as well. Go to Hoffman Archery. They know what they’re doing and will get you set up right.

I’m also in the Fairfax urban program. Glad to answer any Qs you have.

Thank you, I really appreciate the offer. I'm still reading through all of the regulations, but having someone who understands it will be a massive help if I ever get stuck.

 

[Nealm66]

Just don’t do what I did. Shooting a bow is incredibly fun and now my shoulder hurts lol

 

[Planopurist]

Kind of similar to how with buying the best glass you can and then you can use it on any platform you run in the gun world? It makes sense to me to invest in accessories as a beginner and then as you move to a new boy you can simply bring over your past equipment rather than getting a new bow and needing to replace all of the low-budget accessories.

Exactly. I did that exact thing until I started acquiring multiple bows. The functionality of the rest and sight are undervalued by most IMO.


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