Things to avoid in a new bow

[Zac]

I'd definitely be purchasing Bowtech, or Elite unless you have a bow press at your house.

 

[JMasson]

I'm still a bit unsure when it comes to specs:

• A broad weight adjustment would be nice as I get into archery.
• Draw length should be around the 29" length
• A shorter axle to axle length since I plan on ground hunting
• When it comes to the rest/sight/stabilizer I'm still relatively clueless, it seems a lot of these are up to preference but can also be changed later as I learn what I want
• Budget is ~$750 but could be pretty flexible depending on the situation
• I'll probably have a much better idea of these once I go to a shop (considering Hoffman Archery if you're from the area)

Regarding the 540, I'm up in the Fairfax, VA area and looking to dive into the Urban Archery program they have going up here.

Hoffman's is a good shop and they'll set you up. Farrin and his techs are good people. They were a haul for me but I used to frequent the shop when I was stationed up there. He has a very wide selection of bows in stock and sells quality used bows as well. Pro tip: don't go shoot his bows and then buy one cheaper and take it to him for work. He'll work on it but he won't do you any favors.

As far as the urban archery program, do you mean the city/ county parks program? It used to be good but has gone down hill in the past few years. If you can get access to Fort Belvoir (not hard at all really, if you arent affiliated with the DOD), I would look there instead. I hunted Belvoir (as well as a couple small wooded properties) for 4 years and filled my tags every year. It's also not that hard to gain access to a lot of smaller wooded lots in Fairfax County. Those suburban housewives don't like the deer nibbling on their rose bushes and there is no shortage of deer in the urban/suburban areas of NOVA.

 

[Brizzle]

Go to Hoffmans’s Archery, they’ll help you figure out what’s best for you and let you try them so you can see for yourself. They also do 80% of the county qualifications for the urban program so they can help you get on the right track with that too.

 

[Stalker69]

First thing i don't want in a bow.. A bow that needs stabilizers to balance. Then A bow that uses specialty rests, sights, quiver and such. A bow that needs mods to adjust draw length is another downer.

 

[WCB]

I'm still a bit unsure when it comes to specs:

• A broad weight adjustment would be nice as I get into archery.
• Draw length should be around the 29" length
• A shorter axle to axle length since I plan on ground hunting
• When it comes to the rest/sight/stabilizer I'm still relatively clueless, it seems a lot of these are up to preference but can also be changed later as I learn what I want
• Budget is ~$750 but could be pretty flexible depending on the situation
• I'll probably have a much better idea of these once I go to a shop (considering Hoffman Archery if you're from the area)

Regarding the 540, I'm up in the Fairfax, VA area and looking to dive into the Urban Archery program they have going up here.

you can get good deals on used bows for $750....does this include arrows release, everything?

on axel to axel length I wouldnt worry pick what you shoot best (most longer ATA is more stable) I shot short light bows, super light bows etc. Longer AtA and heavier shoot better. I hunt from the ground/spot and stalk...A short bow for me made no difference. Again I would rather be money when shot time comes.

 

[540-Virginian]

I'm still a bit unsure when it comes to specs:

• A broad weight adjustment would be nice as I get into archery.
• Draw length should be around the 29" length
• A shorter axle to axle length since I plan on ground hunting
• When it comes to the rest/sight/stabilizer I'm still relatively clueless, it seems a lot of these are up to preference but can also be changed later as I learn what I want
• Budget is ~$750 but could be pretty flexible depending on the situation
• I'll probably have a much better idea of these once I go to a shop (considering Hoffman Archery if you're from the area)

Regarding the 540, I'm up in the Fairfax, VA area and looking to dive into the Urban Archery program they have going up here.

There is a great archery club in Fairfax (i used to live in Reston) with a great range including3d. Its near the lake. Look it up and try to join. Will be good to meet people too.

 

[540-Virginian]

There is a great archery club with a great range including3d. Its near the lake. Look it up and try to join. Will be good to meet people too.

Gonna add, I wouldnt obsess over axcel to axel. Instead, obsess over what shoots and feels good to you. I ground hunt with a 33” ATA and its great. Unless you are getting a target bow at 38”+, most hunting bows will be small enough. You may prefer the more forgiving bow, which comes from brace height. Typically, longer axel to axel has longer brace heights.

 

[540-Virginian]

I'm still a bit unsure when it comes to specs:

• A broad weight adjustment would be nice as I get into archery.
• Draw length should be around the 29" length
• A shorter axle to axle length since I plan on ground hunting
• When it comes to the rest/sight/stabilizer I'm still relatively clueless, it seems a lot of these are up to preference but can also be changed later as I learn what I want
• Budget is ~$750 but could be pretty flexible depending on the situation
• I'll probably have a much better idea of these once I go to a shop (considering Hoffman Archery if you're from the area)

Regarding the 540, I'm up in the Fairfax, VA area and looking to dive into the Urban Archery program they have going up here.

And i did Hoffman once. He was kind of an ahole… He will get you setup though and shooting, just don’t plan on having any opinions other than his own. He’s an arrogant smart ass in my opinion. Thats most archery shops though… Greentop in Richmond is a drive for you but a good alternative for a new person.

Not saying don't do Hoffman, just don’t expect a friendly experience. It’s been years since i was there though, maybe it’s different now…

 

[fatlander]

Shooters Archery just south of Fredericksburg is what all other pro shops should aspire to be. There’s no place else I’d recommend a newbie go to get their feet wet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Outdoorsman43]

You definitely should go into a shop and shoot as many bows as you can. Picking a bow is a lot about personal preference. Definitely save some of your budget for a really nice sight, rest, and arrows all of that stuff can run surprisingly expensive.

 

[AaronMColeman]

First thing i don't want in a bow.. A bow that needs stabilizers to balance. Then A bow that uses specialty rests, sights, quiver and such. A bow that needs mods to adjust draw length is another downer.

So you're saying your not a matthews guy

I'll see myself out.

 

[AaronMColeman]

My only advice is don't be too macho. Get a bow you can shoot easily or else you will tear up your shoulder, not shoot much, and end up with horrible form.

70# is kinda the go to for western hunters. I think a good place to start for most in shape men who are willing to spend 30 min on lessons to learn to draw at least half way properly is a 60# bow tuned down to 50#. For some 50# may be hard to draw at first but good technique will keep you in the game at 50# and then it can tune up to 60# and that is plenty for anything you want to kill short of a great white shark.

I went with 70# on my new bow, and I was coming from a 60# bow maxed out at around 63#. 70# was a lot for me to transition to. I wish I had tuned it down and worked up some. So bottom line shoot a bunch of bows but shoot a bunch of draw weights too.

 

[AaronMColeman]

Last thing, and this is personal, I don't like entry level anything. I always outgrow it too quickly. I'm a buy once cry once consumer. So when I needed a new bow this year I looked at flagship models mostly. Budget is obviously an issue for almost everyone so I'd say spend as much as you are comfortable with so you don't regret it and end up with a entry level door stop next season.

That said, the mid-range stuff from all manufactures is amazing! the flagships may be $500 -$700 more than the mid-range...and to be honest the flagships all felt and shot better to me...but not $500 - $700 better. So I guess all this rambling is saying buy the best you can afford but don't worry if you can't afford the flagship models nobody makes a bad truck right now and nobody makes a bad bow (I'm sure someone does but you know what I mean)