The Perfect Tikka Stock for $100

[Juan_ID]

Those look great! Based on your comb riser location, I’m guessing you can remove your bolt without issue, no? I opted to have my comb riser a little farther forward so my cheek is centered on the rest. The downside is that I need to remove the bolt shroud to get my bolt out. I could inlet the riser to make room for the bolt/cocking indicator, but I haven’t bothered yet.

Yes I can remove them without needing to remove the shroud or cheek riser on the one with sportsmatch rings, and that is why I mounted them where I did. I may have jumped the gun and modified one with a small notch but not really sure I needed to since I am switching to sportsmatch rings on that rifle as well and don’t think I’ll need both spacers below the riser.

 

[BCsteve]

So how do you make these mods if you have a laminated wood stock?

You can buy a take off synthetic Tikka stock for about $100-150.

 

[Antares]

You can buy a take off synthetic Tikka stock for about $100-150.

I just got one from @J&A Outdoors for $100 delivered.

 

[bojangles808]

nicely done! i have a vertical grip and a kydex adjustable riser but yours looks a lot cleaner

 

[Antares]

Updated with more photos.

 

[Balderdash]

Has anyone seen any rigidity issues after opening up the factory stock? I opened mine up to accommodate a CTR barrel and there's definitely some flex in the fore end now and I'm debating either trying to add material to add some stiffness or just removing a little more to minimize the risk of barrel contact.

Yes. Tikka offers the best plastic stock that I've used, but you can still kiss the barrel with the stock, depending on your rest and shooting style. Nathan Foster sells an epoxy that fills voids in the fore end to stiffen it. Nathan has a nice write up on it on his web site.

https://www.ballisticstudies.com/sh...atchGrade+Synthetic+Stock+Stabilizer+Kit.html

Works great. I did it on a LH A-Bolt because there isn't many stock options for it, and the only thing I didn't care for on the OEM stock was the somewhat flimsy for end. Works great, and I'd do it as a matter of course on any plastic stock I plan to run.

I've had great luck with Boyds laminate if you don't mind the weight. The stocks are very rigid. Weight can be drilled and shaved off of them easily enough, but for all but a couple mountain rigs I tried get as light as I could with carbon stocks, I generally like the little extra heft a laminate stock adds. A 9 lbs all up rig isn't bad to carry abd you can steady them up nice.

 

[Antares]

Has anyone seen any rigidity issues after opening up the factory stock? I opened mine up to accommodate a CTR barrel and there's definitely some flex in the fore end now and I'm debating either trying to add material to add some stiffness or just removing a little more to minimize the risk of barrel contact.

I just open one up for a sendero contour (pic added to original posts). It doesn't affect rigidity at all. You're not really removing that much material and it's all up near the lip of the barrel channel anyway.

 

[darrenk75b]

It'll be a bit over $100 by the time I'm done, but here's a work-in-progress photo.

This LH tikka is for my left eye dominant sons. I snagged a closeout proof 6cm steel lightweight prefit that's going g to get chopped by Kampfeld.

For the stock, I added a DIY kydex cheek piece, chopped 1 1/8" off the stock and just rough installed a KRG Bravo polymer adjustable butt, ground to closely match the tikka stock. I can't fully blend it as I'll grind through the polymer ribs. I have a microcell recoil pad on the way, so the factory pad is simply a place- holder. When complete, the LOP will be 1/2" shorter than factory. I'll also be adding a vertical grip.

For those interested, as it sits the stock is 31.5 ounces. It will be closer to 29 once the microcell is on.

 

[Lonewolf72]

After years of messing around with custom stocks, I've come to the realizations that the factory Tikka stock can do everything I need with some simple modifications. I'm late to the party, some members here have been preaching this all along. Sometimes you just need to figure things out for yourself.

I thought I needed a custom stock because I wanted:
- Long (14.5") LOP
- Vertical grip
- High comb
- Two front studs for adding a bipod rail
- Lightweight

Below is a modified factory Tikka stock that has all those features. Modifications cost approx $100 and finished weight is 34 oz. For comparison, my McMillan Game Warden 2.0 w/ EDGE fill cost $600+ and weighs 32 oz.

Components:
- Kick-eez LOP spacer ($10)
- Tikka vertical grip ($25)
- Victor Titan Universal Cheek Rest ($35)
- Atlas 2.05" rail (BT34; $25) and mounting hardware (BT1517; $5)

View attachment 498657
View attachment 498658
View attachment 498659

I have been eyeballing these Victor cheek rests since before you posted, but wasn't sure they'd fit. Glad to see you were the guinea pig and showed that they would work on a Tikka. I will be buying 2 of these to fit to my 6.5CM and 300WSM Lites along with 2 more vertical grips. I will happily forgo an expensive aftermarket stock for the factory stock with minor modifications.

 

[Antares]

Here's the sendero contour I was working on all finished up.

 

[RW2013]

Thanks for the idea on the cheek riser. The Tikka stock really isn’t as bad as some people make it out to be. They are lite and durable and stuff enough. The newer recoil pads are fine but the old ones were terrible.

 

[RW2013]

Here's the sendero contour I was working on all finished up.

View attachment 513384

Great job on modding the stocks

 

[Bbell12]

Has anyone ever installed a flush cup on the side of the butt stock before?

 

[Antares]

Has anyone ever installed a flush cup on the side of the butt stock before?

I have not, but I’d love to see it.

 

[Macintosh]

I just put flush cups on my tikka. you want the Grov Tec flush cups made for a hollow stock, they are threaded, and they have a rim on the outside, and a threaded nut for the inside. I had to stick a blade inside the stock to pry the foam inside away from the wall, so that I could fit a wrench in there for the nut, but it’s very solid and did not damage anything. On the forend, it’s not a flat surface so the rim has a tiny gap on the bottom and top edge, but I don’t find it obtrusive in handling. This portion of the forend is pretty thick, I did not use the nut inside, I threaded the hole with a tap and screwed/epoxied it in, and then ground the inside off flush in order to not interfere with a barrel. you could probably put the cup a little bit lower and not have to grind it inside, but I wanted to put the cup all the way on the side, as well as where the stock was flattest.

 

[Bbell12]

Thanks @Macintosh

Am also curious how one goes about opening up the barrel channel @Antares . I just bought a used stock and will need to do this for my barreled action to fit.

 

[Jon Boy]

Thanks @Macintosh

Am also curious how one goes about opening up the barrel channel @Antares . I just bought a used stock and will need to do this for my barreled action to fit.

A large socket wrapped in sand paper or a dowel wrapped in sand paper has worked for me. Im sure there are better ways.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[Jon Boy]

Has anyone seen any rigidity issues after opening up the factory stock? I opened mine up to accommodate a CTR barrel and there's definitely some flex in the fore end now and I'm debating either trying to add material to add some stiffness or just removing a little more to minimize the risk of barrel contact.

I used bedding compound to firm mine up with a carbon in it. Worked beautifully

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[Trogon]

For those that want to use a sling, a 2.5" Seekins SRS or Outdoorsmans Hatch rail lines up perfectly with the bracing in the stock. Dremel out a flat spot and epoxy a t-nut.

 

[wind gypsy]

It'll be a bit over $100 by the time I'm done, but here's a work-in-progress photo.

This LH tikka is for my left eye dominant sons. I snagged a closeout proof 6cm steel lightweight prefit that's going g to get chopped by Kampfeld.

For the stock, I added a DIY kydex cheek piece, chopped 1 1/8" off the stock and just rough installed a KRG Bravo polymer adjustable butt, ground to closely match the tikka stock. I can't fully blend it as I'll grind through the polymer ribs. I have a microcell recoil pad on the way, so the factory pad is simply a place- holder. When complete, the LOP will be 1/2" shorter than factory. I'll also be adding a vertical grip.

For those interested, as it sits the stock is 31.5 ounces. It will be closer to 29 once the microcell is on.

Nicely done. I'm a bit jealous of the closeout proof steel barrel, where did you get it from? I've got a benchmark blank ordered to go to kampfeld for a 18" tikka 6 creedmoor as well and those closeout prices are damn near as cheap as the blank..