The Perfect Tikka Stock for $100

Antares

WKR
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After years of messing around with custom stocks, I've come to the realizations that the factory Tikka stock can do everything I need with some simple modifications. I'm late to the party, some members here have been preaching this all along. Sometimes you just need to figure things out for yourself.

I thought I needed a custom stock because I wanted:
- Long (14.5") LOP
- Vertical grip
- High comb
- Two front studs for adding a bipod rail
- Lightweight

Below is a modified factory Tikka stock that has all those features. Modifications cost approx $100 and finished weight is 34 oz. For comparison, my McMillan Game Warden 2.0 w/ EDGE fill cost $600+ and weighs 32 oz.

Components:
- Kick-eez LOP spacer ($10)
- Tikka vertical grip ($25)
- Victor Titan Universal Cheek Rest ($35)
- Atlas 2.05" rail (BT34; $25) and mounting hardware (BT1517; $5)

IMG_7913.jpg
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Antares

Antares

WKR
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More photos of another one I did recently. All the bits and pieces laid out, including the longer screws needed for the LOP spacer. I rub the stock, spacer, and recoil pad with black shoe polish when I'm done; It helps blend away scuffs and scratches that happen while shaping the spacers. It's not pretty, but it's good enough for what it is. This one is for a rifle with a CF sendero contour barrel, so I opened up the barrel channel. Did some bulk material removal with a dremel and sanding drum, finished by running strips of 100 grit sandpaper between the barrel and stock. A little rough looking on the inside, but you can't see any of it with barreled action installed.

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prm

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Mar 31, 2017
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No. VA
Nice!
What bipod? I was just considering a new bipod for my Tikka.

How well does the cheek riser conform to the Tikka contour? Viewed from the end.
 

BBarnett13

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Dec 13, 2020
Messages
148
Nice!
What bipod? I was just considering a new bipod for my Tikka.

How well does the cheek riser conform to the Tikka contour? Viewed from the end.
The bipod in his first photo appears to be an Atlas CAL Bipod.

 
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Gorp2007

WKR
Joined
Dec 4, 2016
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Southern Nevada
Has anyone seen any rigidity issues after opening up the factory stock? I opened mine up to accommodate a CTR barrel and there's definitely some flex in the fore end now and I'm debating either trying to add material to add some stiffness or just removing a little more to minimize the risk of barrel contact.
 

Bbell12

WKR
Joined
Mar 3, 2018
Messages
359
After years of messing around with custom stocks, I've come to the realizations that the factory Tikka stock can do everything I need with some simple modifications. I'm late to the party, some members here have been preaching this all along. Sometimes you just need to figure things out for yourself.

I thought I needed a custom stock because I wanted:
- Long (14.5") LOP
- Vertical grip
- High comb
- Two front studs for adding a bipod rail
- Lightweight

Below is a modified factory Tikka stock that has all those features. Modifications cost approx $100 and final weight is 34 oz. For comparison, my McMillan Game Warden 2.0 w/ EDGE fill cost $600+ and weighs 32 oz.

Components:
- Kick-eez LOP spacer ($10)
- Tikka vertical grip ($25)
- Victor Titan Universal Cheek Rest ($35)
- Atlas 2.05" rail (BT34; $25) and mounting hardware (BT1517; $5)

View attachment 498657
View attachment 498658
View attachment 498659
So how do you make these mods if you have a laminated wood stock?
 
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Antares

Antares

WKR
Joined
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So how do you make these mods if you have a laminated wood stock?

I've never handled a wood (hunter) stock, so I'm just guessing here.

- LOP spacers (if needed) should be the same. I assume the recoil pad is just screwed on
- Comb riser would be the same
- Forend rail would be similar except you'd need to recess a t-nut in the barrel channel
- Vertical grip would require some "artistry," especially if you wanted it to look nice. You'd need to build it up with some type of epoxy putty. I wouldn't personally do this. I've done a lot of putty grips before. They feel good but look like a turd. If you're really set on a vertical grip, I'd get a plastic stock and get the vertical grip module.
 
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Antares

Antares

WKR
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Is that the original Tikka hockey puck recoil “pad?”

If so, have you considered a Limbsaver?




P

Yes, factory recoil pads. I prefer the firmness of the factory pad over the softer Limbsavers, but the heaviest recoiling cartridge I have is .308 Win. If I was shooting a larger cartridge, I would consider a Limbsaver.
 
OP
Antares

Antares

WKR
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Nice!
What bipod? I was just considering a new bipod for my Tikka.

How well does the cheek riser conform to the Tikka contour? Viewed from the end.

Yes, as @BBarnett13 said, I'm currently using an Atlas CAL bipod.

Cheek riser is just slightly wider than the stock. I put a strip of double-sided, foam mounting tape on both sides of the riser to fill in the gap. I left the backing on the tape, because I just wanted it to act as a filler, not as double-sided tape. Works fine. Makes it nice and snug.

IMG_7909.jpg
 
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Antares

Antares

WKR
Joined
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Location
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Has anyone seen any rigidity issues after opening up the factory stock? I opened mine up to accommodate a CTR barrel and there's definitely some flex in the fore end now and I'm debating either trying to add material to add some stiffness or just removing a little more to minimize the risk of barrel contact.

Rigidity is certainly one area where a higher end carbon/fiberglass stock has the factory stock beat. That said, my solution has been to just aggressively open the barrel channel to avoid contact. Seems to work fine.
 
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Antares

Antares

WKR
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Location
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The vertical grip makes a big difference, and thanks to your post in the tikka thread I saw the victor cheek riser. I now have 2 that are almost identical twins.
View attachment 498787

Those look great! Based on your comb riser location, I’m guessing you can remove your bolt without issue, no? I opted to have my comb riser a little farther forward so my cheek is centered on the rest. The downside is that I need to remove the bolt shroud to get my bolt out. I could inlet the riser to make room for the bolt/cocking indicator, but I haven’t bothered yet.
 
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