The Gun Every American Should Own

For hunting? Does low magnification matter?

Yes, to both. Not looking for an LPVO in this case - will be picking up the NX8 you recommended, that will be replacing a Swaro Z8i 1-8x on an all-around carbine. I love the Swarovskis, especially with the various optical advantages I seem to get with it over most LPVOs I've spent time behind, but for that particular build I want bombproof. I'm also just now getting into more precision/long range shooting, and learning how to use mil reticles.

This other question here, that has me hovering around a Polar, is related to a second upper I'm putting together for that same rifle. It's a 20" 6mm Max, that'll be dedicated to hunting and all-around work. Everything from close-in coyotes and bobcats running in the sage, to deer/antelope, and longer range varmint and predator hunting. And in some cases and places, as legal, moonlight hunting when thermal isn't an option. Lowest power settings from 2 or 2.5 would be fine, up to 4x for the highest low-power setting. Not concerned as much about high-end magnification, but 10x would be minimum for high end. Cost is not an issue. Reliability, durability, and top-tier low-light capability are the biggest priorities. Lightweight is nice but not critical, but a 2lb scope would be a bit much. And as I get my longer-distance skills up to speed, a reticle with the best field-use advantages would be important as well.

Thanks for giving this some consideration, will look forward to your thoughts.
 
Yes, to both. Not looking for an LPVO in this case - will be picking up the NX8 you recommended, that will be replacing a Swaro Z8i 1-8x on an all-around carbine. I love the Swarovskis, especially with the various optical advantages I seem to get with it over most LPVOs I've spent time behind, but for that particular build I want bombproof. I'm also just now getting into more precision/long range shooting, and learning how to use mil reticles.

This other question here, that has me hovering around a Polar, is related to a second upper I'm putting together for that same rifle. It's a 20" 6mm Max, that'll be dedicated to hunting and all-around work. Everything from close-in coyotes and bobcats running in the sage, to deer/antelope, and longer range varmint and predator hunting. And in some cases and places, as legal, moonlight hunting when thermal isn't an option. Lowest power settings from 2 or 2.5 would be fine, up to 4x for the highest low-power setting. Not concerned as much about high-end magnification, but 10x would be minimum for high end. Cost is not an issue. Reliability, durability, and top-tier low-light capability are the biggest priorities. Lightweight is nice but not critical, but a 2lb scope would be a bit much. And as I get my longer-distance skills up to speed, a reticle with the best field-use advantages would be important as well.

Thanks for giving this some consideration, will look forward to your thoughts.


This one-



And if you don’t need kroebthan 3.2mils of elevation (they may be able to do a 4.8mil turret), this one with the P3 reticle-

 
This one-



And if you don’t need kroebthan 3.2mils of elevation (they may be able to do a 4.8mil turret), this one with the P3 reticle-


Awesome, thank you.
 
This one-



And if you don’t need kroebthan 3.2mils of elevation (they may be able to do a 4.8mil turret), this one with the P3 reticle-



Had a follow-up on this - just came across the Low Light comparison thread it looks like you posted about a week ago. Hadn't seen it at all, but went through it in detail just now. Your points about the importance of reticle design really stood out, especially with what you said about the Minox ZP5's THLR reticle. That caused me to run a search here, hoping you'd done drop tests on the ZP5, which I was very happy to see you'd done, including follow-ups after a year or so. It was great info. (Anyone interested, that field eval thread's here, with a separate Q&A thread on the ZP5 here).

I'm expecting to pick up the S&B Polar you recommended soon, but everything I've just read from you on the Minox ZP5, especially with that THLR reticle, has just given me pause. They're within a couple of ounces of each other, similarly priced, the Minox appears to be sufficiently rugged...

...what circumstances or uses would you recommend one over the other? Does either excel in a way the other doesn't?
 
Had a follow-up on this - just came across the Low Light comparison thread it looks like you posted about a week ago. Hadn't seen it at all, but went through it in detail just now. Your points about the importance of reticle design really stood out, especially with what you said about the Minox ZP5's THLR reticle. That caused me to run a search here, hoping you'd done drop tests on the ZP5, which I was very happy to see you'd done, including follow-ups after a year or so. It was great info. (Anyone interested, that field eval thread's here, with a separate Q&A thread on the ZP5 here).

I'm expecting to pick up the S&B Polar you recommended soon, but everything I've just read from you on the Minox ZP5, especially with that THLR reticle, has just given me pause. They're within a couple of ounces of each other, similarly priced, the Minox appears to be sufficiently rugged...

...what circumstances or uses would you recommend one over the other? Does either excel in a way the other doesn't?


The ZP5 5-25x56mm is a large scope. If the size isn’t a detriment to your use, and you understand the reticle- the ZP5 with THLR reticle is 100% what I would choose for lowlight/night shooting without illumination.
 
The ZP5 5-25x56mm is a large scope. If the size isn’t a detriment to your use, and you understand the reticle- the ZP5 with THLR reticle is 100% what I would choose for lowlight/night shooting without illumination.

It might be a bit much for that upper, but it might be perfect for something else. Thanks.
 
@Formidilosus What zero range do you set for your 12.5” ?

With my ballistics calculator, the 77 TMK can utilize Quick Drop nicely to almost 600 yards with a 200 yard zero (11.5” barrel at 2500 FPS).

From my 16” barrel at 2700 FPS the numbers marry up similarly out to 600 yards, but I need to set a 100 yard zero.

For the uninitiated, Quick Drop is a a neat hack Form discovered that lets you subtract 200 from your range in yards and that gives you your holdover in mils. See pic.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5878.jpeg
    IMG_5878.jpeg
    128.7 KB · Views: 24
@Formidilosus What zero range do you set for your 12.5” ?

With my ballistics calculator, the 77 TMK can utilize Quick Drop nicely to almost 600 yards with a 200 yard zero (11.5” barrel at 2500 FPS).

From my 16” barrel at 2700 FPS the numbers marry up similarly out to 600 yards, but I need to set a 100 yard zero.

For the uninitiated, Quick Drop is a a neat hack Form discovered that lets you subtract 200 from your range in yards and that gives you your holdover in mils. See pic.

100 yards for everything. Then you ad .5 mils to the base.

100- 0
200- .5
300- 1.5
400- 2.5
500- 3.5 mils
 
It seems that adjustable gas blocks are considered unreliable but I’m curious how much less reliable they are? At what rate does a quality gas quality block fail or what round count do people see before issues arise?
 
1911 .45 -- your choice on manufacturer --- know how to use it, know how to clean it properly, know how to disassemble/reassemble blindfolded, have extra parts and ammo on hand ---
 
It seems that adjustable gas blocks are considered unreliable but I’m curious how much less reliable they are? At what rate does a quality gas quality block fail or what round count do people see before issues arise?

It's not that they're generally "unreliable" - the bigger issue is that they tend to get fouled up from the gasses and lock up, making them non-adjustable. The way to deal with this is to put a little kroil on the moving parts, let it sit for a bit, then adjust a few clicks back and forth before returning to original setting. Do that as part of any rifle cleaning, or do it every few hundred rounds or so.
 
In my experience it just adds another point of failure and they’re not needed. Buy a properly gassed barrel and tune with buffer and spring combos. I’d rather have an adjustable BCG than gas block
 
Back
Top