The 6UM

7.5 twist is ideal, but a 7 will be ok. You may have a few more bullets go poof towards the end of the barrel's life, aside from that it should be fine.

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7.5 twist is ideal, but a 7 will be ok. You may have a few more bullets go poof towards the end of the barrel's life, aside from that it should be fine.

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I called and talked to the guys over at UM. They said 115s in a 7twist is fine. A 7twist with 108s is different story though.
 
Is there any modifying I can do to make the tikka eject the 6um brass better out of a long action mag and bolt stop? Or should I just buy a short action stop and mag?
 
I’d make sure the brass isn’t hitting your scope turret I’ve been shooting quite a bit of short action cases in a long action tikka and they eject just fine if they aren’t hitting the scope!


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I’d make sure the brass isn’t hitting your scope turret I’ve been shooting quite a bit of short action cases in a long action tikka and they eject just fine if they aren’t hitting the scope!


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That’s probably the problem, big windage turrets suck
 
Is there any modifying I can do to make the tikka eject the 6um brass better out of a long action mag and bolt stop? Or should I just buy a short action stop and mag?
As said above, could be hitting the turret, or you need to run your bolt like you mean it!
 
Is there any modifying I can do to make the tikka eject the 6um brass better out of a long action mag and bolt stop? Or should I just buy a short action stop and mag?
I don't think swapping to the short action parts is going to change anything. If the scope has a large windage turret, a Tikka is going to hit it. The only solutions are a reasonably sized windage turret or higher mounts.
 
I am lefty but it’s a r1.2 scope. It doesn’t look like I’m hitting the scope but I’ll look at it closer tonight hopefully. It seems like it works best to run the bolt not too fast and not too slow. I’m wondering if it’s just barely catching the um scope rings. I need to do some more investigating.
Thanks for the help
 
I am lefty but it’s a r1.2 scope. It doesn’t look like I’m hitting the scope but I’ll look at it closer tonight hopefully. It seems like it works best to run the bolt not too fast and not too slow. I’m wondering if it’s just barely catching the um scope rings. I need to do some more investigating.
Thanks for the help
Take a video ejecting your brass and then play it in slow motion. I had the same issue with a tikka and RS1.2.
 
I am lefty but it’s a r1.2 scope. It doesn’t look like I’m hitting the scope but I’ll look at it closer tonight hopefully. It seems like it works best to run the bolt not too fast and not too slow. I’m wondering if it’s just barely catching the um scope rings. I need to do some more investigating.
Thanks for the help
I'll look at mine and see if maybe it's different than I was thinking, maybe hitting the back of the action port? I just always assumed it was hitting the turret like every other magnum Tikka I've had.
 
My LA 260AI Tikka smacks the windage of my RS1.2 every time, though it doesn't inhibit ejection. That is my only gripe with the Maven
 
I am lefty but it’s a r1.2 scope. It doesn’t look like I’m hitting the scope but I’ll look at it closer tonight hopefully. It seems like it works best to run the bolt not too fast and not too slow. I’m wondering if it’s just barely catching the um scope rings. I need to do some more investigating.
Thanks for the help
It will be the turret, and changing the bolt stop and mag won’t make any difference.
I know it is counter intuitive but weakening (shortening) ejector spring a bit will help.
 
I had a well known gunsmith in WY build both my 16" and 20" 6UMs.
He has built a dozen other rifles for me that are all fantastic.
I think these barrels are just F'd.

I am basically 200-300 fps slower than what everyone else is getting.
I had this same problem on two occasions powder in both instances, drove me nuts. One was a problem with a bad batch of N555 being too slow, and the second was with N570 had absorbed moisture over the soggy winter months here in WA. Put the powder into glass dishes and into my food dehydrator for 90 minutes at 135°, Viola, back up to published speeds (benchrest shooter secret). If you do dehydrate your powder, back it off a few grains and shoot a pressure ladder in .5 gr increments until you see pressure again. Hope this helps.
 
I had this same problem on two occasions powder in both instances, drove me nuts. One was a problem with a bad batch of N555 being too slow, and the second was with N570 had absorbed moisture over the soggy winter months here in WA. Put the powder into glass dishes and into my food dehydrator for 90 minutes at 135°, Viola, back up to published speeds (benchrest shooter secret). If you do dehydrate your powder, back it off a few grains and shoot a pressure ladder in .5 gr increments until you see pressure again. Hope this helps.
I store all my powder in ammo cans with desiccant canisters. No worries of loose/poor fitting lids, aging containers, etc. Still have several Hercules Unique containers that are older than me, but still work well, when I actually use them.
 
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