The 22 creedmoor thread

Had a couple messages on my post above from this morning; posting here for transparency if anyone else is wondering...

.Originally a Tikka .22-250 Stainless 8 Twist Barrel.
.Round count on the barrel is now 320 total fired, half with 77 TMK and half with 80 ELDX.
.No it has never been cleaned, it just seemed to now settle in with the 80 ELDX's velocity wise (first 100 were slower and had higher SD).
.Sight height is the same as on all my Tikkas with Maven RS1.2 and UM low rings, 1.74" (nerd alert, measuring using a calibrated high accuracy rotating laser, this is not necessary). I mount all my scopes this way as well because I have it, again, overkill and not needed.
.Dope is trued on a 18" plate with 4" water line, using .485 G1 BC and current DA. Consistent impacts at 800 yards roughly 1,830 FPS impact velocity.
.Yes I will be using this for big game hunting (along with other guns) this season with the 80 ELDX's. I can post kill results here.
What is your average speed now that it settled with the 80’s? Are they all the same lot? What were you getting with the tmk’s also if you have that?
 
You and form really have me thinking hard about trying those eldx bullets. Knowing I have a a pretty solid 88 load I can always fall back to. Terminally are you guys expecting the eldx to preform better than the 88 or are we just splitting hairs at this point?


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That's gonna be all Form man, I've only killed Coyotes, Rabbits, and Squirrels with 22 Bleedmoor so far.

This one was a smaller jackrabbit at just under 2,600 impact velocity, nearly cut him all the way in half.

IMG_8638.jpg

The RokStok'd 22 Creed is coming with me to AK on Friday, along with my .223 ready to roll with 77 TMK's, so we'll see what large brown critters come my way and at what ranges while I'm there.
 
Because I've found that recent Hornady G1 BC's line up very nicely to in field hits at distance with multiple Apps.
Gotcha. I’ve been having some issues with AB on my Furrys so maybe I’ll screw around with the G1 bc on that bullet.
 
What is your average speed now that it settled with the 80’s? Are they all the same lot? What were you getting with the tmk’s also if you have that?
I'm down to my last 400 of this lot and have another 1,000 that are a newer lot. 3100-3140 consistently works so far at range.

I shot the last of my loaded 77 TMK's on Saturday morning, they are right at 80-100 FPS faster average.
 
.Sight height is the same as on all my Tikkas with Maven RS1.2 and UM low rings, 1.74" (nerd alert, measuring using a calibrated high accuracy rotating laser, this is not necessary). I mount all my scopes this way as well because I have it, again, overkill and not needed.
Is this measuring the center of the reticle at a zeroed position to the center of the bore? Seems to be .110” higher than my measurements of center of bolt to center of scope body with the same scope and ring setup. Tikka t3x
 
Is this measuring the center of the reticle at a zeroed position to the center of the bore? Seems to be .110” higher than my measurements of center of bolt to center of scope body with the same scope and ring setup. Tikka t3x
If you want to go crazy chasing sight height, which isn’t needed, it’s easier to measure without the gun in the stock, mounted to something fixed.

Measure from the action line to the center of the reticle. This is what works for me anyway.

IMG_8568.jpeg
 
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On properly seated RokStoks the point I measure to might just slightly be blocked by the stock. Not by an amount that will matter if it does. Measure from where the stock blocks the action line to the center of your scope tube and call it good.
 
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Seems a bit overly complicated. Its half your bolt diameter + half your scope tube diameter + distance between top of bolt and bottom of scope. Done.
Like I said. Not needed. On Tikkas and Sakos just measure from the bottom of the ejection port to the center of your scope and you’re done.
 
Like I said. Not needed. On Tikkas and Sakos just measure from the bottom of the ejection port to the center of your scope and you’re done.

Seems a bit inexact is all. Earlier you said 1.74", but in your pic it looks less than 1.5"? Edit 2: Nvm lol. Can't confuse measurements on a caliper.

Edit: And is taking a caliper to your bolt with it pulled back, then to your scope tube, then between the top of the closed bolt and bottom of scope tube really "not needed" as much as removing the rifle from the stock to get a measurement?
 
1.5” to the bottom maybe camera angles makes things look funny but I can see center pretty close to 1 3/4” but that’s just me measuring to the center of round pipes all day haha


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Seems a bit inexact is all. Earlier you said 1.74", but in your pic it looks less than 1.5"? Edit 2: Nvm lol. Can't confuse measurements on a caliper.

Edit: And is taking a caliper to your bolt with it pulled back, then to your scope tube, then between the top of the closed bolt and bottom of scope tube really "not needed" as much as removing the rifle from the stock to get a measurement?
Tape is there just for a reference photo I wasn’t even holding it square. Doing either of the things you mentioned isn’t at all necessary. This is for nerds like me who may want an “exact” number to use with multiple guns with the same setup.

Once I get a measurement on a known rifle and know scope mounted in the same rings I use the same number moving forward. There are a few ways to skin a cat with different rifles.

The easiest way with a Tikka is to simply measure from the bottom of the ejection port to a mark measured on the center of the scope tube. Being slightly off will not be noticed inside of big game hunting yardages (1,000 plus yards).
 
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