The 22 creedmoor thread

So basically for a Montana (no minimum caliber) guy who reloads the 22 is probably better.
How's the wind drift between the two? Guess that would be the only difference maybe?
Just thinking a 22 would be perfect for my kids.
It is also cheaper to build a 22 creed since you can rechamber a tikka 22-250 or 223 take off barrel. I picked up a 223 barrel for cheap and a used tikka I found at a good price to be turned into a 22 creed.
 
So basically for a Montana (no minimum caliber) guy who reloads the 22 is probably better.
How's the wind drift between the two? Guess that would be the only difference maybe?
Just thinking a 22 would be perfect for my kids.
The only real down side to the 22 creed is barrel life. You’re not gaining much between the two in the ballistics department but you have slightly less recoil. Still sparking off similar powder column. They feel very similar.

For a kid that’s going to be shooting sub 300-400 yards there’s better option imo. Less recoil in a 223, arc, BR derivative or GT might be another option. My dasher has less recoil than my 22 creed did, noticeably.

I got away from 22 creed because of the volume I shoot, ranges I shoot and legality in some states. Close range whitetail at home (sub 300) the damage from the 3k fps 22 cal was nearly too much.
 
I got away from 22 creed because of the volume I shoot
I think you may have posted before, but would you mind sharing barrel life and make/contour/twist rate of the barrels and cleaning frequency/procedure? Also what average MV please and if ran suppressed?

Mine are...

.19" Factory Tikka Stainless D16 profile (lite) 8 Twist. Zero Cleaning. Unsuppressed. 3150 average MV: 2,150 rounds and useable life is over.

.18" Factory Tikka Stainless D16 profile (lite) 8 Twist. Zero Cleaning. Suppressed. 3050 average MV: 2,300 rounds and counting.

.19" Factory Tikka Stainless D16 profile (lite) 8 Twist. Zero Cleaning. Unsupressed. 3065 average MV: Sold to @cal30_sniper at 300 rounds.

.20" Factory Tikka Stainless D16 profile (lite) 8 Twist. Zero Cleaning. Unsuppressed. 3180 average MV: 1,700 rounds and useable life is over.

.20" McGowen Stainless D16 profile (Tikka lite clone) 8 Twist. Zero Cleaning. Suppressed. 3275 average MV: 350 rounds and counting (being "babied" as will be my main late 2025 / early 2026 big game hunting gun).
 
So basically for a Montana (no minimum caliber) guy who reloads the 22 is probably better.
How's the wind drift between the two? Guess that would be the only difference maybe?
Just thinking a 22 would be perfect for my kids.

I have both Here in Colorado the .224 is illegal for biggame. So have the 6 creed for antelope and deer etc. My 11 year old
Daughter shoots it well. I shoot 108 grain projectiles out of it.

The 22 creed I shoot 80 grain
 
I think you may have posted before, but would you mind sharing barrel life and make/contour/twist rate of the barrels and cleaning frequency/procedure? Also what average MV please and if ran suppressed?

Mine are...

.19" Factory Tikka Stainless D16 profile (lite) 8 Twist. Zero Cleaning. Unsuppressed. 3150 average MV: 2,150 rounds and useable life is over.

.18" Factory Tikka Stainless D16 profile (lite) 8 Twist. Zero Cleaning. Suppressed. 3050 average MV: 2,300 rounds and counting.

.19" Factory Tikka Stainless D16 profile (lite) 8 Twist. Zero Cleaning. Unsupressed. 3065 average MV: Sold to @cal30_sniper at 300 rounds.

.20" Factory Tikka Stainless D16 profile (lite) 8 Twist. Zero Cleaning. Unsuppressed. 3180 average MV: 1,700 rounds and useable life is over.

.20" McGowen Stainless D16 profile (Tikka lite clone) 8 Twist. Zero Cleaning. Suppressed. 3275 average MV: 350 rounds and counting (being "babied" as will be my main late 2025 / early 2026 big game hunting gun).

I can’t share barrel life. The barrel specs are in the OP, I sold it to someone here, forget who. 80eldx at 3000fps was my main load. I shot around 500 rounds and got rid of the barrel. PVA 6 groove .219 barrel, 16”. I couldn’t justify using it as a trainer, and I like to train with what I hunt with, hence going to dasher. All suppressed. I cleaned every 150 rounds, procedure includes patch of bore tech c4 or eliminator followed by a few hour soak, followed by bronze brush strokes usually 10ish. Patch it clean if the solvent has done adequate or do more if needed. This is how I clean everything now basically.

Iv been through a number 6 creed barrels, and I normally pull them for match use around 1200ish rounds. I determine those barrels gone when I can’t make consistent 1moa groups, normally I just get more errant rounds than I’d like and I pull the barrel.

I do expect I think more of my barrels than a lot here do. I fully realize that a 1.5” rifle isn’t going to hold me back hunting but it’s hard shooting my match guns that rarely have a >1” 10 shot then going to something that is shooting 1.5”, just frustrating during practice.

I have exactly 2 hunting rifles setup, now one, the dasher. With Wyoming tags in my pocket I couldn’t justify a 22 cal as my main rifles. I despise swapping barrels mid barrel life.
 
I think you may have posted before, but would you mind sharing barrel life and make/contour/twist rate of the barrels and cleaning frequency/procedure? Also what average MV please and if ran suppressed?

Mine are...

.19" Factory Tikka Stainless D16 profile (lite) 8 Twist. Zero Cleaning. Unsuppressed. 3150 average MV: 2,150 rounds and useable life is over.

.18" Factory Tikka Stainless D16 profile (lite) 8 Twist. Zero Cleaning. Suppressed. 3050 average MV: 2,300 rounds and counting.

.19" Factory Tikka Stainless D16 profile (lite) 8 Twist. Zero Cleaning. Unsupressed. 3065 average MV: Sold to @cal30_sniper at 300 rounds.

.20" Factory Tikka Stainless D16 profile (lite) 8 Twist. Zero Cleaning. Unsuppressed. 3180 average MV: 1,700 rounds and useable life is over.

.20" McGowen Stainless D16 profile (Tikka lite clone) 8 Twist. Zero Cleaning. Suppressed. 3275 average MV: 350 rounds and counting (being "babied" as will be my main late 2025 / early 2026 big game hunting gun).

What size 10 shot groups were your 2 barrels at 2150 and 2300rnds shooting at the 1800-2000 mark?
 
I think you may have posted before, but would you mind sharing barrel life and make/contour/twist rate of the barrels and cleaning frequency/procedure? Also what average MV please and if ran suppressed?

Mine are...

.19" Factory Tikka Stainless D16 profile (lite) 8 Twist. Zero Cleaning. Unsuppressed. 3150 average MV: 2,150 rounds and useable life is over.

.18" Factory Tikka Stainless D16 profile (lite) 8 Twist. Zero Cleaning. Suppressed. 3050 average MV: 2,300 rounds and counting.


My 1:8 Lite barrel went from 1.5 to 3.5 MOA and was spiking velocity from 940-1030 rounds. 200 unsuppressed shots and 400 suppressed shots with Vmax around 3300fps. The rest were 77s suppressed around 3150fps. Looked like a rolled lead pipe inside.

22" unsuppressed
19" suppressed

No cleaning.

I just shoot like I want to. No regard for cooling unless I can't see.
 
What size 10 shot groups were your 2 barrels at 2150 and 2300rnds shooting at the 1800-2000 mark?
2150 barrel went from around 1.0ish up to 1.5-1.75 at around 1,300 rounds. No velocity discrepancies until around 2,000. 2.0 and worse detected at 2150.

2300 barrel went from around 1.25ish up to around 1.75 at around 1,500 rounds. Large velocity discrepancies noticed around 2,000 rounds. 2.0 and worse detected at 2,300.
 
I was checking out the practicality of fire-forming my 22-250 brass into 22 creed.

Looks like 3rd firing may have a case head serperation. Nosler brass.

View attachment 907404

Bummer. How much are you setting the shoulder back during sizing?

I’ve seen guys use Lapua 22-250 for 22 Creed. Usually the neck ends up a little short, but otherwise another good option for tough brass.
 
That sucks. Have had no issue with Hornady 22-250 brass.
I have some Hornady brass that's 3-4 firings Ill check out.

Not trying to reinvent the wheel but I had about 100 cases primed when my barrel went so I figured I would screw around a little for curiousity.

So far another issue/inconvenience is on the first firing in the 22 creed chamber the primer is being pushed out instead of the brass extending. You have to seat the primer again to get it into the shell holder.
 
I’ve never had problems forming 22-250Ai but that’s different. An extra step but I wonder if you necked up to 24 caliber and then back down just enough to close the bolt if that would help? I’m just curious if excessive headspace is weakening the brass on the fire form?
 
I have some Hornady brass that's 3-4 firings Ill check out.

Not trying to reinvent the wheel but I had about 100 cases primed when my barrel went so I figured I would screw around a little for curiousity.

So far another issue/inconvenience is on the first firing in the 22 creed chamber the primer is being pushed out instead of the brass extending. You have to seat the primer again to get it into the shell holder.
It sounds like headspace to me but I could be wrong. I mentioned above about necking up and back down to get positive headspace for the fire form. Sounds even more like head space with the primers doing that.
 
It sounds like headspace to me but I could be wrong. I mentioned above about necking up and back down to get positive headspace for the fire form. Sounds even more like head space with the primers doing that.

Yeah, primers backing out and early case head separation is indicative of headspace issues during fire forming.

Two ways to prevent. First is to create a false shoulder by necking the brass up to .243, and then run it into a backed out 22 creed die to neck size it back down with that false shoulder. How much to neck size is trial and error. I like to start such that the brass won’t chamber and then slowly turn the die in. Size and check until the bolt will close with some resistance.
The second, and easier, way is to jam the bullet into the lands about 25- thousandths. This will prevent the cartridge from moving forward before being blown out.
 
Yeah, primers backing out and early case head separation is indicative of headspace issues during fire forming.

Two ways to prevent. First is to create a false shoulder by necking the brass up to .243, and then run it into a backed out 22 creed die to neck size it back down with that false shoulder. How much to neck size is trial and error. I like to start such that the brass won’t chamber and then slowly turn the die in. Size and check until the bolt will close with some resistance.
The second, and easier, way is to jam the bullet into the lands about 25- thousandths. This will prevent the cartridge from moving forward before being blown out.

Totally agree with the above. I have to do the false shoulder to form brass for my 6.5 Sherman.

I get tinkering, but with properly headstamped (and good brass) available for the 22 Creed, it’s hard to want to go through those steps to make 22/250 brass work.
 
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