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It is also cheaper to build a 22 creed since you can rechamber a tikka 22-250 or 223 take off barrel. I picked up a 223 barrel for cheap and a used tikka I found at a good price to be turned into a 22 creed.So basically for a Montana (no minimum caliber) guy who reloads the 22 is probably better.
How's the wind drift between the two? Guess that would be the only difference maybe?
Just thinking a 22 would be perfect for my kids.
The only real down side to the 22 creed is barrel life. You’re not gaining much between the two in the ballistics department but you have slightly less recoil. Still sparking off similar powder column. They feel very similar.So basically for a Montana (no minimum caliber) guy who reloads the 22 is probably better.
How's the wind drift between the two? Guess that would be the only difference maybe?
Just thinking a 22 would be perfect for my kids.
I think you may have posted before, but would you mind sharing barrel life and make/contour/twist rate of the barrels and cleaning frequency/procedure? Also what average MV please and if ran suppressed?I got away from 22 creed because of the volume I shoot
So basically for a Montana (no minimum caliber) guy who reloads the 22 is probably better.
How's the wind drift between the two? Guess that would be the only difference maybe?
Just thinking a 22 would be perfect for my kids.
I think you may have posted before, but would you mind sharing barrel life and make/contour/twist rate of the barrels and cleaning frequency/procedure? Also what average MV please and if ran suppressed?
Mine are...
.19" Factory Tikka Stainless D16 profile (lite) 8 Twist. Zero Cleaning. Unsuppressed. 3150 average MV: 2,150 rounds and useable life is over.
.18" Factory Tikka Stainless D16 profile (lite) 8 Twist. Zero Cleaning. Suppressed. 3050 average MV: 2,300 rounds and counting.
.19" Factory Tikka Stainless D16 profile (lite) 8 Twist. Zero Cleaning. Unsupressed. 3065 average MV: Sold to @cal30_sniper at 300 rounds.
.20" Factory Tikka Stainless D16 profile (lite) 8 Twist. Zero Cleaning. Unsuppressed. 3180 average MV: 1,700 rounds and useable life is over.
.20" McGowen Stainless D16 profile (Tikka lite clone) 8 Twist. Zero Cleaning. Suppressed. 3275 average MV: 350 rounds and counting (being "babied" as will be my main late 2025 / early 2026 big game hunting gun).
I think you may have posted before, but would you mind sharing barrel life and make/contour/twist rate of the barrels and cleaning frequency/procedure? Also what average MV please and if ran suppressed?
Mine are...
.19" Factory Tikka Stainless D16 profile (lite) 8 Twist. Zero Cleaning. Unsuppressed. 3150 average MV: 2,150 rounds and useable life is over.
.18" Factory Tikka Stainless D16 profile (lite) 8 Twist. Zero Cleaning. Suppressed. 3050 average MV: 2,300 rounds and counting.
.19" Factory Tikka Stainless D16 profile (lite) 8 Twist. Zero Cleaning. Unsupressed. 3065 average MV: Sold to @cal30_sniper at 300 rounds.
.20" Factory Tikka Stainless D16 profile (lite) 8 Twist. Zero Cleaning. Unsuppressed. 3180 average MV: 1,700 rounds and useable life is over.
.20" McGowen Stainless D16 profile (Tikka lite clone) 8 Twist. Zero Cleaning. Suppressed. 3275 average MV: 350 rounds and counting (being "babied" as will be my main late 2025 / early 2026 big game hunting gun).
I think you may have posted before, but would you mind sharing barrel life and make/contour/twist rate of the barrels and cleaning frequency/procedure? Also what average MV please and if ran suppressed?
Mine are...
.19" Factory Tikka Stainless D16 profile (lite) 8 Twist. Zero Cleaning. Unsuppressed. 3150 average MV: 2,150 rounds and useable life is over.
.18" Factory Tikka Stainless D16 profile (lite) 8 Twist. Zero Cleaning. Suppressed. 3050 average MV: 2,300 rounds and counting.
2150 barrel went from around 1.0ish up to 1.5-1.75 at around 1,300 rounds. No velocity discrepancies until around 2,000. 2.0 and worse detected at 2150.What size 10 shot groups were your 2 barrels at 2150 and 2300rnds shooting at the 1800-2000 mark?
Which mags? How they feeding?PBB (group buy barrel) vs PVA (1:7 .750 taperless) both 18"
Factory Ammo: 80ELDM...2.5875 3032fps…
View attachment 904982View attachment 904989
My choice for mid to large game when limiting to these choices, would be 6 creed simply due to power factor.
Orange factory 5 rounders. They feed great.Which mags? How they feeding?
I was checking out the practicality of fire-forming my 22-250 brass into 22 creed.
Looks like 3rd firing may have a case head serperation. Nosler brass.
View attachment 907404
I was checking out the practicality of fire-forming my 22-250 brass into 22 creed.
Looks like 3rd firing may have a case head serperation. Nosler brass.
View attachment 907404
I have some Hornady brass that's 3-4 firings Ill check out.That sucks. Have had no issue with Hornady 22-250 brass.
It sounds like headspace to me but I could be wrong. I mentioned above about necking up and back down to get positive headspace for the fire form. Sounds even more like head space with the primers doing that.I have some Hornady brass that's 3-4 firings Ill check out.
Not trying to reinvent the wheel but I had about 100 cases primed when my barrel went so I figured I would screw around a little for curiousity.
So far another issue/inconvenience is on the first firing in the 22 creed chamber the primer is being pushed out instead of the brass extending. You have to seat the primer again to get it into the shell holder.
It sounds like headspace to me but I could be wrong. I mentioned above about necking up and back down to get positive headspace for the fire form. Sounds even more like head space with the primers doing that.
Yeah, primers backing out and early case head separation is indicative of headspace issues during fire forming.
Two ways to prevent. First is to create a false shoulder by necking the brass up to .243, and then run it into a backed out 22 creed die to neck size it back down with that false shoulder. How much to neck size is trial and error. I like to start such that the brass won’t chamber and then slowly turn the die in. Size and check until the bolt will close with some resistance.
The second, and easier, way is to jam the bullet into the lands about 25- thousandths. This will prevent the cartridge from moving forward before being blown out.