The 1 Thing You Learned- Suppressors

It has been said already already but remember to consider length and weight when choosing one for hunting. 22" is about the max I think you want for a barrel that will have a suppressor on the end. I also believe in buy once cry once and to buy one that will fit on multiple guns - usually a 30 cal or 33 cal.
I echo the recommendation for a 30 caliber can
 
Does anyone have experience using a 22 centerfire can on a 22 lr? Two questions:

1. Do you think it cuts the noise as well as a rimfire can?

2. If you can't disassemble the centerfire can (like mine) have you had a problem with the 22lr getting it too dirty? I asked we because they said if it gets dirty enough it can cause a baffle strike.
 
Does anyone have experience using a 22 centerfire can on a 22 lr? Two questions:

1. Do you think it cuts the noise as well as a rimfire can?

2. If you can't disassemble the centerfire can (like mine) have you had a problem with the 22lr getting it too dirty? I asked we because they said if it gets dirty enough it can cause a baffle strike.
I don't think it would cause baffle strikes. If that's the case you would get baffle strikes on cans designed specifically for 22lr also. However a 22CF can on a 22lr isn't going to be as effective as a 22LR built can. The baffles are designed differently. Certain styles of baffles are actually more effective with higher pressures.
Most 22lr cans are cheap enough I would just purchase a dedicated rimfire can.

EDIT: I would never suggest to shoot any rimfire in a suppressor that you can not take apart to clean.

If you ever want a better explanation on things PM me. I have no problem talking over the phone.
 
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Does anyone have experience using a 22 centerfire can on a 22 lr? Two questions:

1. Do you think it cuts the noise as well as a rimfire can?

2. If you can't disassemble the centerfire can (like mine) have you had a problem with the 22lr getting it too dirty? I asked we because they said if it gets dirty enough it can cause a baffle strike.
Do not shoot any rimfire through your centerfire can. It’s just going to fill it with crap. Rimfire is dirty. Even copper jacketed. A hundred rounds of 17hmr leaves a can looking like you dumped a teaspoon of sand in the thing.

I have a can that may interest you. Griffin optimus micro. It’s a take apart rimfire can that can be used on centerfire (up to 22-250 with adapters). It’s a 5” can and works surprisingly well on a 223 in its direct thread orientation. This can can be disassembled so you can use rimfire in it. It lives on my 20” bolt 223 because I love the size, weight and it suppresses more than enough for what I’m using it for.

There’s a picture inserted somewhere so you can see what it looks like.
 

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I don't think it would cause baffle strikes. If that's the case you would get baffle strikes on cans designed specifically for 22lr also. However a 22CF can on a 22lr isn't going to be as effective as a 22LR built can. The baffles are designed differently. Certain styles of baffles are actually more effective with higher pressures.
Most 22lr cans are cheap enough I would just purchase a dedicated rimfire can.

EDIT: I would never suggest to shoot any rimfire in a suppressor that you can not take apart to clean.

If you ever want a better explanation on things PM me. I have no problem talking over the phone.
Thank you so much for sharing your thoughts! In my case the 22 centerfire can is one you can't take apart. I was reading that a rimfire will get it dirty enough that a chunk of the filth could is could deflect a centerfire bullet and cause a baffle strike. Does that sound right?

Until I can get a dedicated rimfire can, I've been shooting fmj suppressor specific 22 lr that's supposed to be a little cleaner. Then every 100 rounds or so I make sure to shoot my 223 throug it to clean it out. Does this sound somewhat effective/safe?
 
Do not shoot any rimfire through your centerfire can. It’s just going to fill it with crap. Rimfire is dirty. Even copper jacketed. A hundred rounds of 17hmr leaves a can looking like you dumped a teaspoon of sand in the thing.

I have a can that may interest you. Griffin optimus micro. It’s a take apart rimfire can that can be used on centerfire (up to 22-250 with adapters). It’s a 5” can and works surprisingly well on a 223 in its direct thread orientation. This can can be disassembled so you can use rimfire in it. It lives on my 20” bolt 223 because I love the size, weight and it suppresses more than enough for what I’m using it for.

There’s a picture inserted somewhere so you can see what it looks like.
That does look like a sweet can! I already have a suppressor for centerfire, so my next one will be for rimfire
 
I'm an old miser... So let me piss off a few here with my diatribe... and this is based on the COST of stuff Vs. the "market" for "STUFF"... so please understand- I KNOW what metal cost (and what oil filters cost to make).

First let me say I appreciate a GOOD knife and a GOOD one (made in bulk) cost what is costs- not a lot. I can get an excellent knife for $40 today-- not custom. A CUSTOM knife ALSO costs what is costs... I get craftsmanship. I adore my custom knives and other items HAND made by an artist (and I've paid for several).

Maybe I just don't understand the "intricacies" involved in the making of a silencer... I admit it! To me it's a piece of metal machined to do what it does. BUT TO THIS DAY... I cannot understand WHY these things cost what they do!

No need to explain it to me guys... you're just not going to be able to convince me. I'm sure there are MANY reasons to justify the cost. But in my mind, it's NOT something that should cost more than about $100 based on other manufactured items of similar construction.

If China could export these, I KNOW they would cost next to nothing. Look at the amazing LED lights they sell for $30. Machined to perfection (from aluminum, not steel) with excellent electronics, polished aluminum reflectors, and milled from single stock. Maybe steel work cost more... but (again) in my mind- not more than 3 times as much.

Like everything else in our world today... reloading prices are THREE times what they were a few years ago- but I KNOW the COST to make them aren't up 300%. Yes, materials have gone up SOME as has labor... BUT not 300%.

Silencers just cost WAY more than I'll ever spend for what they are. When the market adjusts to what I feel it should be... I'll go buy 5 of them. But until then... they make no financial sense to me for what they give me.

My "two cents"... (and that explains my reasoning here to a tee).
 
I'm an old miser... So let me piss off a few here with my diatribe... and this is based on the COST of stuff Vs. the "market" for "STUFF"... so please understand- I KNOW what metal cost (and what oil filters cost to make).

First let me say I appreciate a GOOD knife and a GOOD one (made in bulk) cost what is costs- not a lot. I can get an excellent knife for $40 today-- not custom. A CUSTOM knife ALSO costs what is costs... I get craftsmanship. I adore my custom knives and other items HAND made by an artist (and I've paid for several).

Maybe I just don't understand the "intricacies" involved in the making of a silencer... I admit it! To me it's a piece of metal machined to do what it does. BUT TO THIS DAY... I cannot understand WHY these things cost what they do!

No need to explain it to me guys... you're just not going to be able to convince me. I'm sure there are MANY reasons to justify the cost. But in my mind, it's NOT something that should cost more than about $100 based on other manufactured items of similar construction.

If China could export these, I KNOW they would cost next to nothing. Look at the amazing LED lights they sell for $30. Machined to perfection (from aluminum, not steel) with excellent electronics, polished aluminum reflectors, and milled from single stock. Maybe steel work cost more... but (again) in my mind- not more than 3 times as much.

Like everything else in our world today... reloading prices are THREE times what they were a few years ago- but I KNOW the COST to make them aren't up 300%. Yes, materials have gone up SOME as has labor... BUT not 300%.

Silencers just cost WAY more than I'll ever spend for what they are. When the market adjusts to what I feel it should be... I'll go buy 5 of them. But until then... they make no financial sense to me for what they give me.

My "two cents"... (and that explains my reasoning here to a tee).
Have you seen hearing aid prices?
 
Yes, I have. I've followed the loudspeaker design forums (as a designer) for years. There are now sets of DSP hearing aids that cost less that $100- more usable than a lot of the "traditional" stuff docs sell us. Even Bose is getting into this space. WHY... because they just don't cost that much to make! Over-priced markets are "broke" by innovators... kinda' my point.
 
Maybe I just don't understand the "intricacies" involved in the making of a silencer... I admit it! To me it's a piece of metal machined to do what it does. BUT TO THIS DAY... I cannot understand WHY these things cost what they do!

The wait time and $200 of the paperwork makes people look at silencers as a "last a lifetime" purchase.
For a muzzle device to withstand a lifetime of the gas blasting that they get, exotic and hard materials are needed.
The materials themselves are expensive and machining them is really expensive.
There is some marketing to it, convincing customers that a blast baffle with visible erosion is the end of the world and you can't just use freeze plugs.

But if it wasn't for the paperwork, everybody would buy $30 cans made of pot metal, blast them for a year and chuck em for a new one.
 
OR... they would buy $60 versions made to last longer and made by a company that sells oil filters for $4 each... retail. Basic (but decent) "rifled" barrels sell for $30 OEM and $80 retail. Many makers (competition) keep this cost down.
 
I'm a statistics nerd. What would you estimate the percentage of recoil reduction?
Honestly I'm not sure. I don't know if the recoil is so much reduced alot or if the recoil impulse that makes the difference. It's not reduced enough that I can spot my shots. I would say it's more of a shove and not a punch!
Thank you so much for sharing your thoughts! In my case the 22 centerfire can is one you can't take apart. I was reading that a rimfire will get it dirty enough that a chunk of the filth could is could deflect a centerfire bullet and cause a baffle strike. Does that sound right?

Until I can get a dedicated rimfire can, I've been shooting fmj suppressor specific 22 lr that's supposed to be a little cleaner. Then every 100 rounds or so I make sure to shoot my 223 throug it to clean it out. Does this sound somewhat effective/safe?
I would say this would be ok just not ideal. Alot of gunk left from 22lr is lead and wax. The rest is un burnt powder. If you let the can rest before shoot the 223 it would be best. You need the suppressor to fill back up with oxygen so it can burn off the powder. This is also the reason the first shot through your suppressor is louder than the rest. It's referred to as a First Round Pop. Plus the 223 should have a ought pressure to help blow all the crap out.
 
OR... they would buy $60 versions made to last longer and made by a company that sells oil filters for $4 each... retail. Basic (but decent) "rifled" barrels sell for $30 OEM and $80 retail. Many makers (competition) keep this cost down.
Maybe you should start a suppressor company and sell them for $60.
 
If I had an oil filter company I'd have already done that! It's just the up-front cost of a factory that's stopping me!

Someone out there has the tooling already in place to sell these for "dirt"... so there IS some reason (barrier to entry) why they haven't................. yet.
 
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