The 1 Thing You Learned- Glassing Smarter

nphunter

WKR
Joined
Jul 27, 2016
Messages
1,997
Location
Oregon
I had one more but my last post is already too long.

When people talk about glassing at first and last light I never really took that to heart. Last year I found out that it literally can be until last light! I was deer hunting with my son, we were passing up several bucks each day trying to find an older deer, on about day 3 we spotted what I thought was a buck right at dark coming out of the sagebrush into a more open area. I couldn't really see antlers at the time just a big body and familiar cadence to his walk, day 4 same thing, could barely make out a large deer right at dark. Day 5 we moved closer and actually went and laid down in the opening where he was coming down, he never showed because he most likely saw us. Day 6 we finally put eyes on the deer, we moved across to the other side of the mountain and started watching a couple of hours before dark, we snuck where we thought we would have a shot right at dark and by the time we got there the deer had crossed and were already out in the open about 200 yards away, my son got nervous and missed the deer, they didn't really know what happened and trotted off and it was already getting too dark to shoot.

Day 7 we gave it one last go, we sat on the edge of the clearing watching the sagebrush hillside. After a couple of hours sitting without seeing anything, my son was huddled up inside of my coat since it was super windy and in the low 40's. It was getting pretty dark so I asked him if he wanted to call it and head out, he said sure, as I stood up I saw movement out of the corner of my and instantly dropped back to my knees, I quietly spun the rifle around and got it set up on the tripod for the shot, my son found the bucks in the scope and waited for them to come into the clearing. Once the larger buck was in the clear my son took the shot right at the very last light, it was a 50 yard shot with my 280AI. The moral of the story is that if I hadn't been glassing right up until I couldn't glass any longer, we would have never found the buck. If we wouldn't have moved to a better vantage we would have never seen the buck, and if we wouldn't have been persistent he wouldn't have killed him.

Sitting until it is too dark to glass will eventually pay off, I don't know how many times I have run out of light sitting behind a set of binos or my spotter.
 

mxgsfmdpx

WKR
Joined
Oct 22, 2019
Messages
6,156
Location
Outside
Glass what’s easiest to glass first. Ridgelines, open areas, water holes, heavily used game trails etc. Check off the obvious areas first and then grid from there.
 

NABG Hunter

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Mar 6, 2021
Messages
250
Location
Michigan
Depending on terrain I’ll use a Helinox One chair or a lightweight stool (ex: BTR).

Not a fan of pads. Don’t like getting poked by cactus spines and too uncomfortable to sit still and glass all day.
Thank you.

I need a chair for better lower back support (old injury).
 

MattCO

FNG
Joined
Aug 13, 2019
Messages
43
Location
Highlands Ranch, CO
Here are some things that work well for me:
- don’t skyline yourself, I drop over a ridgetop or peak and sit 10-15’ down the other side, this does limit the area I can glass without moving but I’m much less visible to those closer animals. After I’ve cleared one side, I’ll slowly move to the other side of the ridge or peak. Another option is to scan the other side of the valley as you come over the top, scan the top 25% as it becomes visible, then move up and scan the next 25%, etc. This depends how close the other side of the valley is.
- it’s usually windy in my glassing spots (mostly up high glassing across or down), being as low as possible provides the most stable platform, I’m usually sitting on the ground with tripod as low as possible, with the thickest, most stable tripod legs extended (vs the thinner legs). Depending on wind, it can help to fully remove lens covers instead of them hanging from their keeper straps flapping around.
- I really like the bino bandit from GoHUNT to block the wind and sun, keeps my eyes from drying out and watering too much. Less eye fatigue having a dark surround vs bright light peeking in from the sides.
- to make your sit more comfortable, use a small pad and put your backpack behind you for some lower back support, find a comfortable spot to sit as you’ll be there a while
 

mxgsfmdpx

WKR
Joined
Oct 22, 2019
Messages
6,156
Location
Outside
Thank you.

What are the differences between the two?
Agnes is a little heavier but much more stout, and way more stable on slopes and rocky ground. I also like the seat angle and back rest way better. There's tons of reviews on the different backpacking lightweight chairs on youtube.
 

NABG Hunter

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Mar 6, 2021
Messages
250
Location
Michigan
Agnes is a little heavier but much more stout, and way more stable on slopes and rocky ground. I also like the seat angle and back rest way better. There's tons of reviews on the different backpacking lightweight chairs on youtube.
Thank you for your detailed response. Just what I was hoping for!
 

MJB

WKR
Joined
Jun 18, 2020
Messages
433
Location
San Diego
Before the tripod is deployed I grab a stick or hiking pole and put my binos on the mono and glass. It's really comfortable for scanning the hill side quickly.
 
OP
Oregon Hunter

Oregon Hunter

WKR
Rokslide Sponsor
Joined
Aug 30, 2013
Messages
869
Location
Beaverton, Oregon
I love the freedom you get with monopods too…I use one often

i also found if you use lower 7x magnification binoculars on a monopod, the image is so still you think it’s actually on a tripod
do you feel you still are able to find game like you would with a 10X binocular?
 
OP
Oregon Hunter

Oregon Hunter

WKR
Rokslide Sponsor
Joined
Aug 30, 2013
Messages
869
Location
Beaverton, Oregon
I have a couple of things to add;

Take advantage of items lying around or on your person to steady with. I use my trekking poles and loop the wrist straps around each other to make a great adjustable bi-pod for my binos. Shed antlers work well and so do sticks, anything to rest the bino's on and still be able to maneuver them.

Practice, don't just go out in hunting season and try to find animals, do some glassing intense stuff like shed hunt or find bedded deer midday in their summer range. I know I'm picking an area apart when I start picking up shed antlers while glassing.

Perspective, when glassing try to find something to put things in perspective. A coyote, elk, deer, even a person can give you perspective on the distance you're looking at. Once you turn up a deer (or your target) start glassing areas you've already looked because your brain now knows exactly what to look for instead of what you thought you were looking for.

Location, know where to glass, you can glass a hillside all day long and if there is nothing on it you are just wasting time. Pay attention to the shade as well as the wind direction, I've found deer and elk both prefer to bed on the leeward side of the mountain when the wind starts cranking, which means to spot them your normally going to be sitting in the wind.

Glass sizing to task, If you are hunting timber leave the spotter at home, a lot of times when archery elk hunting in the timber I will leave my bino's in the truck and use my 7X range finder instead. Other times 10's aren't enough and the 15's need to be used or even a 20+ magnification spotter. If you are able to move closer to glass do it and you will be amazed at what you can turn up, sometimes closer isn't an option and you need to have the biggest best glass you can to pick apart a mountainside.
Sounds like you're fortunate to have a couple pairs of binoculars to pick from. If you were to choose just one for western hunting, what size would they be?
 
OP
Oregon Hunter

Oregon Hunter

WKR
Rokslide Sponsor
Joined
Aug 30, 2013
Messages
869
Location
Beaverton, Oregon
Here are some things that work well for me:
- don’t skyline yourself, I drop over a ridgetop or peak and sit 10-15’ down the other side, this does limit the area I can glass without moving but I’m much less visible to those closer animals. After I’ve cleared one side, I’ll slowly move to the other side of the ridge or peak. Another option is to scan the other side of the valley as you come over the top, scan the top 25% as it becomes visible, then move up and scan the next 25%, etc. This depends how close the other side of the valley is.
- it’s usually windy in my glassing spots (mostly up high glassing across or down), being as low as possible provides the most stable platform, I’m usually sitting on the ground with tripod as low as possible, with the thickest, most stable tripod legs extended (vs the thinner legs). Depending on wind, it can help to fully remove lens covers instead of them hanging from their keeper straps flapping around.
- I really like the bino bandit from GoHUNT to block the wind and sun, keeps my eyes from drying out and watering too much. Less eye fatigue having a dark surround vs bright light peeking in from the sides.
- to make your sit more comfortable, use a small pad and put your backpack behind you for some lower back support, find a comfortable spot to sit as you’ll be there a while
great idea about using the thickest sections of the leg instead of the first thin ones you pull out!
 
OP
Oregon Hunter

Oregon Hunter

WKR
Rokslide Sponsor
Joined
Aug 30, 2013
Messages
869
Location
Beaverton, Oregon
One thing most people don't know about our new Spartan Ascent tripod is the central column holds a bunch of screwdriver bits so it can be used as a tool. You'd be surprised how often this comes in handy for field repairs stuff that comes loose

Central Column Ascent.jpg
Ascent.jpg
 

Blue72

WKR
Joined
Nov 2, 2018
Messages
523
Location
Long Island, ny
do you feel you still are able to find game like you would with a 10X binocular?

there are trade offs. I obviously get closer views with 10x. But I can handhold 7x for a very very long time and actually enjoy doing it. While the 10x requires more breaks

with that said I have over 5 miles of coastline in my backyard and I often use my 7x


AB7CCB2D-ADCF-47E2-A6E0-C24D82DE64CA.jpeg
 

nphunter

WKR
Joined
Jul 27, 2016
Messages
1,997
Location
Oregon
Sounds like you're fortunate to have a couple pairs of binoculars to pick from. If you were to choose just one for western hunting, what size would they be?

Out of what I have, 10's for sure, honestly, I'm pretty set on getting a pair of 8.5 ELs in the future as a go-to. When elk hunting in timber the 10's are too much, especially when you're trying to judge an elk as he's walking back and forth through the trees.
 
OP
Oregon Hunter

Oregon Hunter

WKR
Rokslide Sponsor
Joined
Aug 30, 2013
Messages
869
Location
Beaverton, Oregon
there are trade offs. I obviously get closer views with 10x. But I can handhold 7x for a very very long time and actually enjoy doing it. While the 10x requires more breaks

with that said I have over 5 miles of coastline in my backyard and I often use my 7x


View attachment 398783
Thanks for sharing details about your experience with gear. Gorgeous photo too!
 
OP
Oregon Hunter

Oregon Hunter

WKR
Rokslide Sponsor
Joined
Aug 30, 2013
Messages
869
Location
Beaverton, Oregon
Out of what I have, 10's for sure, honestly, I'm pretty set on getting a pair of 8.5 ELs in the future as a go-to. When elk hunting in timber the 10's are too much, especially when you're trying to judge an elk as he's walking back and forth through the trees.
8.5 sounds like a sweet spot
 
OP
Oregon Hunter

Oregon Hunter

WKR
Rokslide Sponsor
Joined
Aug 30, 2013
Messages
869
Location
Beaverton, Oregon
It sounds like one of the greatest debates here is what power bino is best. A couple years ago Leupold came out with some variable binoculars, maybe 8-12x. Wish they would have caught on. Does anyone have experience with zoom binoculars?
 
Top