Low light glassing options

[Lil-Rokslider656]

Hey All,

Looking for some advice on low light glassing.

I have the sig zulu6 10x30. They are my workhorse. From archery hunting timber to glassing. But not great in low light.
I've also got a Leupold 20-60 Alpine 2 ( and its pretty poor)
Diamondback HD 10x42s that are surprisingly ok.

Recently picked up a vortex mini razor 13-39. Figured this would be a great replacement for my leupold Overall really impressed with it. Recently took all my glass through some testing and realized my 10x42s allow for the longest effective glassing. I was surprised by this and sat down for some internet learning. Learned about exit pupil, and light transmission.

Now I'm debating some low light glass. Looking at some Swaro SLC 8x56 or equivalent to get that high 7ish exit pupil. But before I go making a ton of assumptions I figured I'd ask for some real world usage:

How much would this this increase my twilight glassing time? Like are we talking 5 mins, 15 mins, 30 mins?

 

[gr8fuldoug]

A GREAT options for not a great deal of $$$$ is the Kowa BD56-8XD 8x56mm Prominar XD Binoculars
Features
● Use of phase-coated prism surface
● Close minimum focusing distance
● Use of twist-up eyecup for easy viewing
● Rubber coating that is comfortable for holding
● Waterproof structure filled with dry nitrogen gas
● Polcarbonate body

 

[180ls1]

Same issue with that glass. Love/Hate for sure.

I really wish they gave them the Pro lenses and possibly a bump in objective size.

 

[eyeguy]

My 7x42 slc are pretty great in low light. If low light long range then maybe 8-10 x would be nice but otherwise lower mag is nice. Really need a spotting scope with big objective if need long range and low light and need to see those first or last few min of the day.

 

[Lil-Rokslider656]

I considered

A GREAT options for not a great deal of $$$$ is the Kowa BD56-8XD 8x56mm Prominar XD Binoculars
Features
● Use of phase-coated prism surface
● Close minimum focusing distance
● Use of twist-up eyecup for easy viewing
● Rubber coating that is comfortable for holding
● Waterproof structure filled with dry nitrogen gas
● Polcarbonate body

I considered this, but with less light transmission than swaro or maven i’ve pushed it to the low end (for now)

My guess is that the kowa would give me 5-10 minutes, but an slc would give me 15-20 or more (than my current diamondbacks).

If I can’t get 15-20 out of the swaros I’ll probably pick up some Maven.

Starting at the top and working backwards.

 

[Lil-Rokslider656]

Same issue with that glass. Love/Hate for sure.

I really wish they gave them the Pro lenses and possibly a bump in objective size.

They’re great for what they are, but if I’m really going for low light they would need a really big objective: 10x50 which I don’t forsee anytime soon.

I don’t mindthe tripod for first and last light, heck I usally have it. I glued a arca mount to my 10x30 and they really do work from the tripod: smooth and fast scanning, they buck the wind a lot, and give me a comfortable eye relief. Not to mention my traps get really sore after those things are glued to my face all day.

 

[Lil-Rokslider656]

My 7x42 slc are pretty great in low light. If low light long range then maybe 8-10 x would be nice but otherwise lower mag is nice. Really need a spotting scope with big objective if need long range and low light and need to see those first or last few min of the day.

I thought I was going to get more time with the spotter but now realize my errr. My 20x60 by 80
Is a 4 exit pupil and looses light faster than everything else I have, even at 20. Maybe a 115 someday, but no time soon.

I’m not planning to glass super long range at first and last light. So some binos should do the trick. Mainly an elk hunter; and in September if I find a group of elk I’m assuming there will be a bull so I’m going that direction

 

[Sadie]

The 8x56 you mentioned should be really good. I use 7x50 stieners.

 

[Lil-Rokslider656]

The 8x56 you mentioned should be really good. I use 7x50 stieners.

how do you like those?

I was looking at the Stiner night hunter 8x56. On paper they edge out the slc for the lowest of low light, but the slc would be more useful in other scenarios and I’m told has better color, and while i don’t own and swaro glass I understand you can’t really go wrong with them

 

[RockAndSage]

How much would this this increase my twilight glassing time? Like are we talking 5 mins, 15 mins, 30 mins?

This absolutely depends on terrain and weather - the difference between being at the bottom of a heavily wooded draw on the north side of a steep mountain, vs open country and clear skies, can be an hour or more of usable light at the same time of day.

If money's not an issue and you want max lowlight performance, look at the Blaser 8x56s.

If you want a spectacular all-around set of binos, for all conditions and uses including low light and tripod glassing, check out the Swaro NL Pure 10x52s.

 

[hand skills]

I like 10x50's, I find the extra mag is helpful for discerning details in the shadows. Also more fun for astronomy.

Everyones eyes are different, but for me personally it's gotta be pitch black for my pupils to exceed 5mm. For old guys, 5mm might be the limit.

A 7mm exit pupil does make for a super 'comfy' eyebox in a lot of cases. Handheld, I do prefer 8x, but if a tripod or rest is available 10x hands down.

As above, the Swaro NL 10x52 is on another level (to which I aspire)

 

[Sadie]

how do you like those?

I was looking at the Stiner night hunter 8x56. On paper they edge out the slc for the lowest of low light, but the slc would be more useful in other scenarios and I’m told has better color, and while i don’t own and swaro glass I understand you can’t really go wrong with them

Mine are 40 years old. True military type $350 when I bought them, they are heavy. The new binoculars I would guess are lighter and have better light transmission.