Technique for rifles that kick?

yfarm

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Read an article about hard Vs soft shoulder accuracy and recoil. Accept it,dont tense up and give with the recoil, will shoot more consistently. Shoot my Cooper M92 280ai in a tshirt,does have a brake. 5.8 lbs with Talley rings so under 7 with the scope.
 
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jkdrgn

Lil-Rokslider
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I can’t help myself….

MAN UP!!!



Seriously tho, if a 270 is beating you up that bad the stock probably isn’t fitting you like it should. Either change the way you shoot, change stocks, or change rifles. You might find some reduced recoil loads, but good luck in this market
I never said that it was beating me up too bad. While it kicks more than i usually shoot, I'm getting good sight pictures and clean trigger pulls.

I'm just not sure if I'm managing the recoil of the rifle consistent enough for the rifle to shoot as well as lesser recoiling rifles.
 
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jkdrgn

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Something else that you’ve mentioned is you’re getting 7-8 shots in an inch and then 2”. So are you getting 2” groups after the barrel is hot or are you getting good groups one time at the range and the next time you’re crappy groups. First scenario is common when you go from a cold bore to a warm bore to a hot bore. Couple things that help would be to make sure that it’s free floated and I’d also look at the bedding. The second scenario is changes in how you’re looking thru your scope. I’d also guess parallax could be giving you fits. But your sighting process isn’t being repeated. Just a few things to consider
I've been cooling the barrel between strings of 3-4. Some of my larger groups have been with a cool barrel.

It's very free floated, I've been through most of the mechanical checklist items that I'm aware of: front scope base screw, bolt handle not touching the stock, etc. Not saying it couldn't be something mechanical, but I've gotten several nice round clusters of 6 to 8 shots, and then next time larger clusters with shots landing outside where I like, even with good trigger pulls.

I adjust the parallax for 100, and check it by moving my head.
 
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jkdrgn

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Dry firing will help. I wouldn't fire any more live rounds until you can consistently dry fire without moving the reticle at all. Loading dummy rounds and mixing with live rounds will help to keep you honest when you go back to live firing. I'd avoid a brake. They cause flinching due to the increased noise and concussion. I suppressor would likely help, but I'd guess you'd need to rebarrel to get an adequate shoulder.

My dry firing with the rifle is great, no reticle movement. Will certainly get someone to help load and mix in some dry fires as a check. I won't be doing a brake, I just can't do the extra noise. I have a suppressor on another rifle, but I don't think it's rated for magnums.

Will be focusing on my form, including recoil management, and see if consistency improves.
 

nobody

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I can’t help myself….

MAN UP!!!



Seriously tho, if a 270 is beating you up that bad the stock probably isn’t fitting you like it should. Either change the way you shoot, change stocks, or change rifles. You might find some reduced recoil loads, but good luck in this market
Re-read his original post, he's talking about a 270 Weatherby Magnum, not a 270 winchester. BIG difference in the recoil department.
 
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Very few people can shoot heavy recoiling rifles very well. They act like they can on internet forums, but the reality far from it. Most have at least some sort of a flinch. You can brake them, but then you HAVE to use hearing protection, a loud braked rifle can cause a flinch just as easily as heavy recoil.

To reduce recoil you can go up in weight, down in cartridge, add a brake or can.

If you want a light recoiling rifle, I would go 6mm CM and shoot 108gr eldms - good for deer, elk, bears etc out to 600 plus yards.
 
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Very few people can shoot heavy recoiling rifles very well. They act like they can on internet forums, but the reality far from it. Most have at least some sort of a flinch. You can brake them, but then you HAVE to use hearing protection, a loud braked rifle can cause a flinch just as easily as heavy recoil.
People take pride in getting abused by their own guns and a large majority of them have flinches they don't even know about. Sorry I'm not impressed that you use a 338 Remchesterby shitkicking magnum that makes you flinch so hard you shoot with both eyes closed. Those same people are the ones who go to the range once every fall to "sight in". Man they annoy me.
 
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People take pride in getting abused by their own guns and a large majority of them have flinches they don't even know about. Sorry I'm not impressed that you use a 338 Remchesterby shitkicking magnum that makes you flinch so hard you shoot with both eyes closed. Those same people are the ones who go to the range once every fall to "sight in". Man they annoy me.
I remember coming out of the mountain in soda springs Idaho during an elk hunt to grab a burger at the A&W. Group of 4 guys from back east there that were elk hunting as well. They were so excited to tell me about their brand new 300 and 338 rums they put together for their western hunts. Then they asked me what I was shooting - I am a big dude, 6’5” 250, when I told them a 25-06, they about fell out of their chair 🤣 . Its not just non residents who do it. Lots of locals shooting big magnums, like you said, one range trip a year to shoot a milk jug at 100 with their big magnums and they are good to go. Blows my mind…
 
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I know you said you didn't like a brake, but you may want to reconsider, or order up a can as others have said. I went from a .270 Winchester to a .300WM when I started doing more cross canyon hunting, and at first I was afraid I couldn't handle it. This was with a big heavy rifle, it was still hard to control. Put a brake on it after a few frustrating trips to the range, and I absolutely love it now. It's loud, but earplugs in the field are a pretty small price to pay for the 1-3 shots I hopefully am putting through it on a hunt. I am saving up for a can, but the brake made a huge difference in how it shoots, so the noise is acceptable. Would be worth at least experimenting with.

I would also recommend the 1:1 time with a coach. I had a friend who was an Army marksmanship instructor spend a few days at the range fine tuning my form, body positioning, trigger pull, etc. and it made a huge difference in how consistently I could shoot my 300, and it carried over, and improved my shooting in general.
 
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After 3 shoulder surgeries my 300 win. mag was starting to bother me with recoil. shoot the rifle a lot and really like it. It came to the decision to put a brake on it and go from there or sell the rifle and go to a lesser cal. The brake works great. Best move I made in a long time . O and bye the way Mules kick, rifles recoil.
 

LaHunter

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Hey all, got a question about technique required to shoot sporter weight rifles that kick. I’ve been trying to figure out a 270 weatherby, 8 lbs all up. It kicks much more than what I shoot most, usually 243s and 22-250s.

I’m making good clean trigger pulls, and have good sight pictures when the shots breaks. But the gun just hasn’t been very consistent, sometimes putting 7-8 shots into an inch, and then sometimes more like 2 inches.

I always hold the rifle with both hands even while on sandbags, never let it free recoil. But I tried pulling it tighter than usual to my shoulder and controlling the recoil more and was having better success.

Wondering now if my better groups were the times when I snugged tighter, and worse groups when I was focused too much on the trigger pull and relaxed.

Is that a typical situation with rifles that kick?
An 8 lb 270 Weatherby Mag is going to be a tough rifle to shoot consistently. You are getting a lot of advise, but I wander how many of these guys chiming in are able to keep a Weatherby mag under an inch (8 rounds) at 100 yards. That recoil going to be really tough to manage. I would say get a muzzle brake, or a suppressor on this rifle. Or sell this rifle and get a lighter recoiling rifle and / or a heavier rifle. 8 lb magnums (especially Weatherby mags) don't mix well. Good luck.
 

T28w

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Dec 10, 2018
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8+ 2" groups? Go hunt, that is great and anyone who says they can halve that is waiting to lose a bet.
Lol. I agree and That’s what I said on a BOATING forum when a guy was asking some very basic questions about shooting. I basically said when u can put 10 shots in a 2” circle at will then start working on distance. I was told I was a shitty shot and must hang out with a bunch of shitty shooters. 🤷🏻‍♂️
 
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I've been cooling the barrel between strings of 3-4. Some of my larger groups have been with a cool barrel.

It's very free floated, I've been through most of the mechanical checklist items that I'm aware of: front scope base screw, bolt handle not touching the stock, etc. Not saying it couldn't be something mechanical, but I've gotten several nice round clusters of 6 to 8 shots, and then next time larger clusters with shots landing outside where I like, even with good trigger pulls.

I adjust the parallax for 100, and check it by moving my head.
What is your ammo choice
 
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jkdrgn

Lil-Rokslider
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Jun 27, 2019
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I’ve been loading for it, Peterson brass, CCI 250s, 140 tipped gamekings and IMR7977.
 
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I’ve been loading for it, Peterson brass, CCI 250s, 140 tipped gamekings and IMR7977.
If your loads are that inconsistent you might try something else. You shouldn’t get moa and groups and the next time you get 2” groups. Unless it’s in you. Consistency is key thru all of it.
 
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