I have been bow hunting for 25 years or so and have shot a lot of animals with my bow over the years, but I have gotten target panic to point it is making me want to give up. I have tried lots of methods for curing it with no luck. I just bought a thumb release and have started to use it, but I can't tell a big difference. I shoot decent on targets a close range but can't hold on a spot at longer distances and really struggle picking a spot and holding on animals or 3D targets under pressure. It is like a force holding my pin away from the spot I want to hit. Please if any one has over come this dreaded problem please give me some advice.
Target panic is ruining my life
- Thread starter GA Hunter
- Start date
I'm new-ish to bows but my "instinctive shooting" carried over from shotguning for years. I couldn't stop myself from shooting as I swung my pins past the target.
I too tried a great many "solutions" but what finally worked for me was the following exercises...
1) draw and keep your finger behind the trigger, now quickly whip the pin onto target at a close range (20 yards) simply work on holding the pin steady on target. Hold for 8-10 seconds then let down. I did this 10 times a day for almost 2 weeks without shooting an arrow.
2) next I did the same thing but after 5 seconds of slowly put my finger on the trigger and start to squeeze allowing the bow to surprise me all while continuing to count to 10.
Eventually my mind just got used to seeing the pin over the target and would go there automatically. It has also slowed down my shooting process enough that When I occasionally feel that urge to snap of a quick shot, I can suppress it.
I'm no master but it REALLY helped me
I too tried a great many "solutions" but what finally worked for me was the following exercises...
1) draw and keep your finger behind the trigger, now quickly whip the pin onto target at a close range (20 yards) simply work on holding the pin steady on target. Hold for 8-10 seconds then let down. I did this 10 times a day for almost 2 weeks without shooting an arrow.
2) next I did the same thing but after 5 seconds of slowly put my finger on the trigger and start to squeeze allowing the bow to surprise me all while continuing to count to 10.
Eventually my mind just got used to seeing the pin over the target and would go there automatically. It has also slowed down my shooting process enough that When I occasionally feel that urge to snap of a quick shot, I can suppress it.
I'm no master but it REALLY helped me
- Thread Starter
- #4
By triggering the shot during target panic you are rewarding bad behavior and will never beat it. You must let down and start the process again thus punishing yourself for target panic. By only rewarding your effort after prefect shot sequence can target panic be beaten. You can work on blind bale drill during this time also but never cheat by looking.
I struggled with the same thing for 50% of my 25+years shooting both stick bows and later compounds. I began to conquer it with the stick bow over several years of different techniques and developing a repeatable shot sequence. I struggled with the compound mostly because of punching the release and I really couldn't overcome it on my own. Then I bought the book "Idiot Proof Archery". As I read it I discovered he identified nearly everything I'd done wrong over the years so I really started paying attention to his writing and figured there was really something to the advice he was giving. As a result I developed a surprise release using back tension to trigger the release and I chose a Carter RX2 trigger release. I followed the program religiously and after about 4 months I began to shoot better than I'd ever shot in my life. Six months after buying the book I took a Stone Sheep followed by a Desert Sheep a few months after that. I was extremely calm while shooting both sheep and executed each shot flawlessly. I'm now completely cured and look forward to getting close and taking the shot where before I'd get nervous even thinking about shooting at an animal.
I obviously highly recommend the program outlined in the book but I caution it'll take a few months of hard work and mental exercises to overcome TP. I just about gave up bowhunting last year and now I can't imagine picking up a rifle unless I'm physically unable to draw a bow.
I obviously highly recommend the program outlined in the book but I caution it'll take a few months of hard work and mental exercises to overcome TP. I just about gave up bowhunting last year and now I can't imagine picking up a rifle unless I'm physically unable to draw a bow.
- Thread Starter
- #7
I will pick up a copy of that book and check it out. I am willing to put in the time to get over it, because I can't imagine giving up bow hunting. It is just so frustrating to not Be able to shoot well because of it. I need a step by step program to work through it.
Thanks
Thanks
ozyclint
WKR
you can't do 2 things at the same time with the conscious mind. you need to delegate different tasks to the conscious and subconscious mind.
i shoot trad and i find it best that i run my form consciously while letting the subconscious run the aiming. other guys are vice versa. i'm consciously thinking about my high elbow and drawing straight back with back tension when i shoot. the aiming runs by itself. the subconscious is very good at what it does. people don't trust it enough and they try to do everything consciously and that's when they strike trouble.
you seem to be concentrating on the pins when you shoot. try ignoring the pins and letting the subconscious place the pins on the target. try all conscious thought on aspects of your form when drawing and shooting. back tension for example. works for me.
i shoot trad and i find it best that i run my form consciously while letting the subconscious run the aiming. other guys are vice versa. i'm consciously thinking about my high elbow and drawing straight back with back tension when i shoot. the aiming runs by itself. the subconscious is very good at what it does. people don't trust it enough and they try to do everything consciously and that's when they strike trouble.
you seem to be concentrating on the pins when you shoot. try ignoring the pins and letting the subconscious place the pins on the target. try all conscious thought on aspects of your form when drawing and shooting. back tension for example. works for me.
rodney482
WKR
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2012
- Messages
- 4,007
Very simple..
Understand that its not just a mind issue but can also be a form/set up issue.
The good ol fear of missing.. Ruined many a great archer.
First step.. Make yourself let the bow down and do NOT allow yourself to punch.
This ^^ is a must!
You have to retrain your brain.
Understand that its not just a mind issue but can also be a form/set up issue.
The good ol fear of missing.. Ruined many a great archer.
First step.. Make yourself let the bow down and do NOT allow yourself to punch.
This ^^ is a must!
You have to retrain your brain.
ozyclint
WKR
so it is a mind issue....
TJ
WKR
This ^^^^^ I've gone through the same thing. This book helped tremendously. I also started using a Carter Squeeze Me release in addition to a RX1. Good luck.
StrutNut
Lil-Rokslider
Great advice! The other thing that helped me was a B-Stinger 12 in stabilizer with a 12 oz weight. How it helped was once I got it on target it was easier to hold especially from an elevated position like a stand. When I started practicing from a tree stand all of a sudden my movement started going away and I was able to hold rock solid on target all the way through follow through. I kept shooting from the stand at hunting distances and when I went back to shooting on the ground I was significantly more stable as well. I have no problems with target panic at all anymore.
- Thread Starter
- #13
whaletail
FNG
I've been there and it ain't fun. I can't emphasize enough the importance of a surprise release. Like above, I've tried a lot of different things. The most helpful was a Carter Squeeze Me release. Definitely takes getting used to and some use it solely for a training release. I've hunted the last three years with mine and have taken some great animals with it. I also shoot a Carter Like Mike using back tension with a stiff trigger. The feeling of concentrating only on aiming and being surprised when the shot breaks is awesome.
rodney482
WKR
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2012
- Messages
- 4,007
ultimately yes,,,, but bad form can create the mind games.
improper set up can lead to bad form... see how it can all go together.
* but you can have perfect set up, great form and still catch the TP bug
jmez
WKR
I would use a hinge instead of a thumb release. Easier to get away with a conscience shot trigger on the thumb release.
Another method to think about. Stan hinge releases come with a safety pin so the release will not fire. You can hook them on the string, draw the bow and they release enough to know the shot would have fired but the release doesn't fire. I prefer a click on my hinge, some don't like them. If used correctly the click is a good thing IMO. The first click sets the release, it fires on the second click. The key to using a clicker is you do not aim, concentrate, or try to put you pin anywhere near the spot UNTIL you hear the click. When you hear the first click then you start your shot sequence.
If you put on target right away and start aiming and then hear the click it will just make things worse. Start the shot sequence after the click, the click tells you it is go time.
I've never had full blown target panic but struggled with a clean release. I started with a Scott Rhino XT and a heavy spring and the trigger set to the second knuckle on the index finger. If you use this release with the swept trigger and the heavy spring in this position you can't punch the release, it won't fire. If you do punch it enough to make it fire you have to yank it so hard you will miss a bag target to the right at 20 yards. This helped me a lot.
I then bought a Stan Jet Black Hinge with the clicker and went to a professional coach. It is far easier to learn to use a hinge correctly if you get some help right from the start. If there is no one around to help you I'd recommend going to AT and sending a pm to Padgett, he will be a huge help. I set the hinge as cold as possible and turned my bow down to 60#, don't start with your hunting weight and a hinge, turn the bow down. Pinned the release so it would not fire. Use an arrow on the string and a backstop. Draw the bow and get comfortable and start to pull, don't look at the target, aim or anything else, just settle into the draw until the release clicks. Now, close your eyes and start your shot sequence, continue pulling until the release clicks again, it would have fired at that point. Now let the bow down and repeat. I did this for a month and never fired an arrow. If you do it every day you will develop a nice shot sequence.
After a month of that I kept every thing the same except the shot sequence part. After the first click I did not close my eyes. Had a bag target at 10 yards and started with a 2 inch spot. After the first click I obtained my sight picture through the peep and started aiming while pulling. If at any time things did not feel right, or I felt as if I wanted to "punch" I let the bow down, reset the release and started over until I executed the "shot" smoothly, still with the release pinned. I did this for a month and never fired an arrow.
I then replaced the 2 inch dot with a small sticker, about 1/2 inch diameter and went through the entire process again for the next 30 days never firing an arrow. After this I unpinned the release and started shooting at 10 yards at the 2 inch dot. You can then gradually work back to longer distances.
I have two bows set up, one I shoot with the hinge and my hunting bow. My anchor changes enough I can't shoot both the Rhino and Stan with the same bow. I also still have the hinge bow set at 60#. I spend most of the winter shooting the hinge then I shoot it periodically through the spring and summer leading up to season. Any time I catch myself wanting to punch, not holding on target etc. I just put down the hunting rig and shoot the hinge for a while.
This took my shooting esp at longer distances, 60+ yards, to a higher level. The stabilizer comment above was a good suggestion as well. I never knew the correct function of a stabilizer until I experimented with a B Stinger target set up a guy loaned me. I now hunt, even backcountry, with a 10 inch B Stinger and 8oz of weight on the front.
The correct length and weight stabilizer makes a huge difference in pin float at longer distances. It takes some experimenting to get the right combo for you. An 8 inch with 8oz made no difference for me, a 10 inch with 8oz's it was like my bow was all of a sudden clamped into a vice. Any more than 8oz and longer than 10 inches I would start to lean back to counterbalance the weight. If you can get a stab system to play with you should.
Another method to think about. Stan hinge releases come with a safety pin so the release will not fire. You can hook them on the string, draw the bow and they release enough to know the shot would have fired but the release doesn't fire. I prefer a click on my hinge, some don't like them. If used correctly the click is a good thing IMO. The first click sets the release, it fires on the second click. The key to using a clicker is you do not aim, concentrate, or try to put you pin anywhere near the spot UNTIL you hear the click. When you hear the first click then you start your shot sequence.
If you put on target right away and start aiming and then hear the click it will just make things worse. Start the shot sequence after the click, the click tells you it is go time.
I've never had full blown target panic but struggled with a clean release. I started with a Scott Rhino XT and a heavy spring and the trigger set to the second knuckle on the index finger. If you use this release with the swept trigger and the heavy spring in this position you can't punch the release, it won't fire. If you do punch it enough to make it fire you have to yank it so hard you will miss a bag target to the right at 20 yards. This helped me a lot.
I then bought a Stan Jet Black Hinge with the clicker and went to a professional coach. It is far easier to learn to use a hinge correctly if you get some help right from the start. If there is no one around to help you I'd recommend going to AT and sending a pm to Padgett, he will be a huge help. I set the hinge as cold as possible and turned my bow down to 60#, don't start with your hunting weight and a hinge, turn the bow down. Pinned the release so it would not fire. Use an arrow on the string and a backstop. Draw the bow and get comfortable and start to pull, don't look at the target, aim or anything else, just settle into the draw until the release clicks. Now, close your eyes and start your shot sequence, continue pulling until the release clicks again, it would have fired at that point. Now let the bow down and repeat. I did this for a month and never fired an arrow. If you do it every day you will develop a nice shot sequence.
After a month of that I kept every thing the same except the shot sequence part. After the first click I did not close my eyes. Had a bag target at 10 yards and started with a 2 inch spot. After the first click I obtained my sight picture through the peep and started aiming while pulling. If at any time things did not feel right, or I felt as if I wanted to "punch" I let the bow down, reset the release and started over until I executed the "shot" smoothly, still with the release pinned. I did this for a month and never fired an arrow.
I then replaced the 2 inch dot with a small sticker, about 1/2 inch diameter and went through the entire process again for the next 30 days never firing an arrow. After this I unpinned the release and started shooting at 10 yards at the 2 inch dot. You can then gradually work back to longer distances.
I have two bows set up, one I shoot with the hinge and my hunting bow. My anchor changes enough I can't shoot both the Rhino and Stan with the same bow. I also still have the hinge bow set at 60#. I spend most of the winter shooting the hinge then I shoot it periodically through the spring and summer leading up to season. Any time I catch myself wanting to punch, not holding on target etc. I just put down the hunting rig and shoot the hinge for a while.
This took my shooting esp at longer distances, 60+ yards, to a higher level. The stabilizer comment above was a good suggestion as well. I never knew the correct function of a stabilizer until I experimented with a B Stinger target set up a guy loaned me. I now hunt, even backcountry, with a 10 inch B Stinger and 8oz of weight on the front.
The correct length and weight stabilizer makes a huge difference in pin float at longer distances. It takes some experimenting to get the right combo for you. An 8 inch with 8oz made no difference for me, a 10 inch with 8oz's it was like my bow was all of a sudden clamped into a vice. Any more than 8oz and longer than 10 inches I would start to lean back to counterbalance the weight. If you can get a stab system to play with you should.
Whisky
WKR
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2012
- Messages
- 1,419
First time I used the Squeeze Me I think it was, I buried an arrow up to the fetching in my garage wall. Couple more inches and I might have been picking it out of the neighbors house.
Look, I tried more then 1 fancy release. Many different drills, sequences, etc. None of it worked for me. You know what did? Putting the bow down for an entire winter, picking up a rifle and dry firing it every day. I was getting into the LR thing about the same time I was battling TP and I'd lay prone on my living room floor lookin out the patio window and dry fire just about every day all winter. Picked up a bow next spring with a "fark target panic" attitude and wa la, gone.
To this day I notice that I shoot better when I shoot less frequent. If I shoot a couple times a week I'm noticeably better then if I'm shooting every day. Call me weird.
Look, I tried more then 1 fancy release. Many different drills, sequences, etc. None of it worked for me. You know what did? Putting the bow down for an entire winter, picking up a rifle and dry firing it every day. I was getting into the LR thing about the same time I was battling TP and I'd lay prone on my living room floor lookin out the patio window and dry fire just about every day all winter. Picked up a bow next spring with a "fark target panic" attitude and wa la, gone.
To this day I notice that I shoot better when I shoot less frequent. If I shoot a couple times a week I'm noticeably better then if I'm shooting every day. Call me weird.
- Thread Starter
- #18
I bought a Carter Squeeze me release and a couple of books idiot proof archery and core archery. I'm going to spend some time retraining myself to shoot with back tension and a go from there. I don't have any big hunts planned for this year so I can spend some time working through this. If I could get confident again with my bow I probably would never gun hunt again, but it looks like I will be pulling th rifle out some this year.
You have gotten some good advice. The cure for TP usually takes 6 months. I would get a back tension with a safety (truball sweet spot is my favorite). Start at 4-5 yards in you garage and shoot with you eyes closed for weeks. Then start transitioning back to longer yardages. After a couple of months you'll get to the point of being able to aim at the spot and execute the shot without the symptoms of tp (locking up off the spot, moving off the spot as the bow goes off, peeing down your leg etc). After a couple of more months your accuracy will return, a couple more and your groups will be better than ever. Do not buy a back tension and step back to 40 yards your first day and expect miracles. Do not shoot in the wind at first, it will bring tp back.
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