Can’t help with the current mechanical issues, but can commiserate on finding a MT. My dealer searched the entire country when I purchased my 2012, no go- had to order it from the factory and took three months. Was worth the wait.
Yeah, Peterson Toyota out of Boise had several manuals on order and I was able to claim one that should be available in September. The dealership in Anchorage had an manual on order that would be available end of October, but in came with $5,500 in extras I did not want plus a $2,000 "market adjustment" making the one in Boise $7,500 cheaper. The day after I called about it someone else put a deposit down on the one coming to Anchorage.Can’t help with the current mechanical issues, but can commiserate on finding a MT. My dealer searched the entire country when I purchased my 2012, no go- had to order it from the factory and took three months. Was worth the wait.
That would just confirm a head gasket but it looks like that's the problem and you figured it out.Thanks everyone, you have helped me think things through. A none refundable deposit has already been put down on a new truck, so that is settled, but I would still like to fix the old one. Plus, if I don't like the new one it will be worth more than I payed for it once I drive it up to AK from Boise, so no point in eating that $1000 deposit.
I did not. Out of curiosity, what would that change? I'm not a mechanic, so I'm legitimately curious if I'm missing something. I was thinking I already know coolant is leaking into the exhaust somehow, so even if I found a leak somewhere else I would still feel the engine needed work.
Something else I did not mention in the original post, when testing compression cylinder three had noticeable moister coming out through the spark plug hole by the end. I was turning it over 5-10 times for each cylinder, an noticed a few droplets at cylinder 3 after it had turned over about 15 times.
I did not pull the fuse for the fuel system, so some fuel was going into the cylinders, but number 3 stood out as wet compared to the others. It was not enough fluid to be able to distinguish if it was fuel/oil/coolant or some mixture of those.
This combined with the fact that new plugs fixed the misfire for a few minuets has me thinking the problem is not electrical.
You have me wondering about trying stop leak. I have never used it because I know it can clog things up. But, if I already believe the engine needs a rebuild, would it hurt to try it? I'm inclined to still stay away from the stuff, but I'll mull it over.
I'm inclined to agree. As I said above, I'm not a mechanic, so I'm going to give my thinking so that people can punch holes in it. I can also do more research and find the answers to some of these questions. But I'll ask just to see what others know.
I'm inclined to say if I'm pulling the head I should go ahead and rebuild the engine considering the age. It would also be nice to have the head and block checked for cracks and see if anything needs to be machined.
Now, I can get the head off without removing the engine from the truck. Would pulling the head, replacing the head gasket, and putting the head back on be only a 1 or 2 day job if I left it in the truck? An OEM gasket set would run me $350 (not sure if I would need the whole set). Also, would I need to retune the engine if I just pulled the head and replaced the gasket?
It sounds like (from a TacomaWorld thread) that the 2.7L is susceptible to burnt valves if an exhaust manifold crack is left too long. The O2 sensors have been a problem since 2014, and that can be caused be a cracked manifold.
Does it make since to just replace the head gasket and leave rings and such alone? Can I check that the head and block matting surfaces are flat without taking them to a machine shop if I pulled the head to replace the gasket? (Edit: yes, that would be easy). If they are not flat could I just put the head back on and save the new gaskets for a future rebuild?
How would I check for burnt valves?
Anyway, I have my research cut out for me, but if anyone has an answer I would appreciate that easy button.
No way I'd do head gasket only. Go ahead and do a ring and bearing kit while your in there. You should be able to rent a cylinder hone.
Why do you want to off load a truck you bought within the year?You guys complaining about throttle response manual mid size pickups...WTF? It's not a sports car.
I've got a 21 Sport with the MT. Yeah, I've driven faster. That's not why I bought it. Also, you guys trading Toyotas for Chryslers...yuck.
I'm eyeballing a Powerstroke. Anybody looking for a MT Taco with an Alu-Cab canopy?
I've heard on this forum and elsewhere that used market is over MSRP/sticker. I don't really believe that, but if someone wants a Taco bad enough to prove me wrong I would listen. Never in my lifetime has a car gone up in value when you drive it off the lot.Why do you want to off load a truck you bought within the year?
Mine Bluebooks for $43-47K, drove it off the lot for $40K. It does make me tempted to try to sell it, but I would have to wait another 2-4 months to get a replacement. So, not worth it for me to even try.I've heard on this forum and elsewhere that used market is over MSRP/sticker. I don't really believe that, but if someone wants a Taco bad enough to prove me wrong I would listen. Never in my lifetime has a car gone up in value when you drive it off the lot.
The transmission is not fly by wire (just the throttle and transfer case). The stick feels similar to my 97 and you can feel it go into gear. The clutch is also a hydraulic linkage from the master cylinder (which is mechanically attached to the pedal) to the slave cylinder.For this "fly by wire" manual transmission........do you actually feel it going into and out of gears while shifting? Or is it just an idiot stick?
As for throttle response.......that has nothing to do with power, speed, or sport's cars. It's the vehicles "immediate" response to the pedal......whether accelerating or decelerating. Even my 33 year old Toyota has great throttle response.........even though it only came with 150hp from the factory. It is definitely NOT a sport's car........although it does corner really really well even at high speeds.
Does that mean you can walk in to a dealer with Blue Book numbers and trade it at near that value? Over sticker? Genuinely asking.Mine Bluebooks for $43-47K, drove it off the lot for $40K. It does make me tempted to try to sell it, but I would have to wait another 2-4 months to get a replacement. So, not worth it for me to even try.
Blue book is based on current sales trends. So while no sale is a sure thing, that is what trucks similar to mine have been selling for on the used market. Walking in to a dealer the lower end of that range (or perhaps a little less) as what you could reasonably expect to be able to negotiate. The numbers I gave were based on private party sale.Does that mean you can walk in to a dealer with Blue Book numbers and trade it at near that value? Over sticker? Genuinely asking.
I dont have the patience or will to sell a car on Craigslist. My sticker was $34. My guess is that there are not too many people out there with $35k liquid that are not willing to wait out the dealership.
Kelly Blue Book seems too similar to Zillow. They think they have the info to convince people where the market is at. Always seems they are a little high, especially when a company like Zillow gets squirrely and buys up a bunch of the product they are trying to price in the first place. Does KBB sell cars?