Switching to Single Bevel Broadheads

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Looking to make the switch to shooting single bevel broadheads. Also, going to building my own arrows to shoot with the broadhead. Best head out there? I am a right handed shooter. Looking for opinions on direction of bevel and fletching? Offset/helical/right/left all the things. Thanks in advance.
 

Hnthrdr

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All I know is helical needs to match the bevel on the blade other wise it will fly like a knuckle ball.
 
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Cutthroat and Iron Will would be my top two contenders. Right vs. left doesn't matter as long as the bevel direction matches the offset/helical direction so both ends of the arrow are working to spin the arrow in the same direction. Some folks are going to advise you to "clock" a bareshaft then fletch to complement the natural spin direction. There's no harm in doing so but also no benefit IMO. Right bevel heads are more common than left, BTW.
 

deer310sg

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Take a look at the new Magnus 150 SB. A deadly looking head, and they fly fantastic. Boughta pk on release date, but sold them. Regrettably!! If I can find a pk, could be my bear head this spring.
 
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Phlatlander218
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Cutthroat and Iron Will would be my top two contenders. Right vs. left doesn't matter as long as the bevel direction matches the offset/helical direction so both ends of the arrow are working to spin the arrow in the same direction. Some folks are going to advise you to "clock" a bareshaft then fletch to complement the natural spin direction. There's no harm in doing so but also no benefit IMO. Right bevel heads are more common than left, BTW.
Thanks for the advise. Seems like most people have the same opinion as you about the need to follow, or not to follow the natural spin. Sounds like right bevel is the way to go. Now, fletching decisions are to be made...
 

Bert01

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I bought cutthroats and did the high FOC thing. Haven’t shot anything with them yet but they fly really well and have a ton of energy when they hit my block target.
 
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My biggest concern with left bevel/helical is unscrewing the head. If it’s a glue in, no problem but that has always concerned me.
 
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Zac

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If you’re a novice and don’t really know how to sharpen I would only get the iron will. That being said they are awful to resharpen so you may just want to learn. The Magnus, and Kudu are probably decent budget friendly options.
 
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My biggest concern with left bevel/helical is unscrewing the head. If it’s a glue in, no problem but that has always concerned me.

I have shot a lot of LH helical and offset, I don't have issues with anything unscrewing.


Nothing a little o-ring won't fix if you are really concerned about it.

Don't think there's any benefit to LH versus RH fletch either tho.
 
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I have shot a lot of LH helical and offset, I don't have issues with anything unscrewing.


Nothing a little o-ring won't fix if you are really concerned about it.

Don't think there's any benefit to LH versus RH fletch either tho.
I have no doubt it's me and my tendency to mind screw with things. I have no data to support my ideas. I think I just decided that having confidence is best so I stay away. I probably need someone to diagnose my "active brain" but that would take time away from tinkering and driving myself insane-er.

Probably a good thing I already have all my jigs in right hand or it's a rabbit hole I could see myself diving head first into.
 
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I have no doubt it's me and my tendency to mind screw with things. I have no data to support my ideas. I think I just decided that having confidence is best so I stay away. I probably need someone to diagnose my "active brain" but that would take time away from tinkering and driving myself insane-er.

Probably a good thing I already have all my jigs in right hand or it's a rabbit hole I could see myself diving head first into.

Proper term is Rabbit Hole.
 

lelliott8

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I shoot LW but I find that right bevel broadheads are more common. So I would say RW helical with a VPA or cutthroat
 

jbelz

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Ha…yep.

Some of this stuff is a rabbit hole for sure…like 4mm shafts and SB BHs….solutions to a non existent problem.
I have never had a single issue getting a 4mm to tune as well as a 5mm – where did this weird 4mm theory start?
 

Hnthrdr

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I have never had a single issue getting a 4mm to tune as well as a 5mm – where did this weird 4mm theory start?
Not sure, but idea of smaller diameter=less drag= more penetration= better chance of a pass through= better blood trail. Full disclosure this is the mental gymnastics I did, I do shoot 4mm, killed a few elk with 5mm fmj, but went back to carbon fiber as my fmj’s seemed kind of fragile, but I wasn’t using a collar at the time. I digress… bottom line, sharp broadhead on a tune bow with proper spined shaft, BUT most importantly a properly placed shot will kill. Doesn’t matter if it’s 2 blade, 3 blade, this FoC that FoC, single bevel, heck even a mechanical will do the trick
 

MattB

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I have never had a single issue getting a 4mm to tune as well as a 5mm – where did this weird 4mm theory start?
When people figured out they couldn’t use 8-32 heads without outserts in them. IMO 4mm was a solution to a problem that didn’t really exist, which actually created problems with its execution.
 
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jbelz

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When people figured out they couldn’t use 8-32 heads without outserts in them. IMO 4mm was a solution to a problem that didn’t really exist, which actually created problems with its execution.
For me, I like having a thicker carbon wall – seems to be a touch more durable. But I'm fine with 5mm as well. I know how to tune, so I just tune whatever I'm using and put something sharp on it. I've seen some chatter about oscillation and stabilization, which sounds like nonsense to me.
 
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