Single Bevel Broadhead Arrow Setups

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Sep 7, 2022
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I am in the process of broadhead tuning and I'm having a bear of a time.

My setup:
150g Day Six Evo's
70lb - 29"DL
I've tested 350/300/ and now trying 250 spine arrows .001 straightness
3 fletch and 4 fletch - straight and left helical's

What single bevel is everyone using and what arrow setup are you using to get the best flight?
 
Single bevel won't affect arrow flight in any tangible way. 300 spine would be adequate unless you've got a heavy insert as well. How are you going about broadhead tuning and what is your issue specifically?

The big problem with these unvented larger heads is that they are not very forgiving in flight. What arrow weight are you shooting and what speed? If I was you - I'd consider moving to a shorter or vented broadhead to assist in flight. Bone breaking doesn't mean anything if you're setup is unforgiving.
 
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Have you done any paper or bareshaft tuning? If so, were you getting good results (i.e., "bullet hole" tear, bareshafts hitting alongside fletched shafts)?

What vanes are you using?

FYI Day Six Evo isn't a single bevel head...it's a double bevel 2-blade head with bleeders.
 
I just put 3 Evo's into a baseball-sized group @ 80 yds this morning as a final check before I chase pronghorn tomorrow. They fly as well as any fixed blade head I've cared to shoot. Something else is going on.
 
you are right. not a true single - but in the category I would guess of a single.

I have blazer, AAE Max Stealth, Hybird and have Hunter Max delivering today.

Paper tune and bow tune in check.
 
Broadhead left about 8"
I adjusted my rest left fractions at a time at 20yds and got BH and FP touching
moved to 30 and got them touching.
40- everything went out the window. hit left, high and FP still center.
 
Broadhead left about 8"
I adjusted my rest left fractions at a time at 20yds and got BH and FP touching
moved to 30 and got them touching.
40- everything went out the window. hit left, high and FP still center.
If those results at 40 yds are consistent, I would keep tuning for it. Move the rest down and left to fix BH hitting above and left of FP. If you have to go more than 1/4" from 13/16" centershot, I would look at adjusting cam lean/position.

Depending on arrow length and insert weight, you could be underspined. Reducing draw weight and/or broadhead weight would be a way to test the effect of stiffening your dynamic spine.
 
Cams are Sync- I just shot TAC in May. I feel pretty confident in shooting distances.
 
Broadhead left about 8"
I adjusted my rest left fractions at a time at 20yds and got BH and FP touching
moved to 30 and got them touching.
40- everything went out the window. hit left, high and FP still center.


What bow and are you RH or LF?
 
Ok, went home from work and went back to square one.
set my center shot, leveled everything, and sighted in.
Shot through paper - I was completely wrong. I'm not in tune.

I apologize- I completely thought my bow as tuned in.
1723726099453.png
 
Ok, went home from work and went back to square one.
set my center shot, leveled everything, and sighted in.
Shot through paper - I was completely wrong. I'm not in tune.

I apologize- I completely thought my bow as tuned in.
View attachment 750662
My advice - Get a clean tear through paper and hopefully everything is near spec and you don't have to shim cams. Then I'd just step to 20 yards and start broadhead tuning with micro clicks.
 
Ok, went home from work and went back to square one.
set my center shot, leveled everything, and sighted in.
Shot through paper - I was completely wrong. I'm not in tune.

I apologize- I completely thought my bow as tuned in.
View attachment 750662

You’re not far off, get a decent bullet hole and the Evo will tune up just the way you want it to


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I’m shooting a 100gr kudu on 200 spine Spartans. Total arrow weight is 545gr shooting 296fps. 31.75” draw at 88lbs. Finding the proper arrow in long enough length and stiff enough spine was my major issue. It may be over thinking it, but I found the best success aligning my cock feather and the blade of my broadhead. I found that if my broadhead was horizontal that it would plane worse than if it was vertical. There is a pause of energy when you release an arrow and the only thing I could think of is that gravity would act on the arrow more with a flat broadhead surface.
 
Once my bow is in tune I do all my testing with bare shafts. What I look for is what spine and what tip weight flies the best (perfect) at 7 yards. With perfect bare shaft flight to start I can then use less fletching to control arrow flight with broadheads at distance. I would suggest fletching 1-3 degree off set or helical and if you end up shooting a single bevel broadheads you should match left or right single bevel to your fletching. Left single bevel with left helical or off set etc.
 
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