Knuckle ball worked well for Tim Wakefield. lol...Thanks for the input!
Thanks for the advise. Seems like most people have the same opinion as you about the need to follow, or not to follow the natural spin. Sounds like right bevel is the way to go. Now, fletching decisions are to be made...
I have no doubt it's me and my tendency to mind screw with things. I have no data to support my ideas. I think I just decided that having confidence is best so I stay away. I probably need someone to diagnose my "active brain" but that would take time away from tinkering and driving myself insane-er.
Ha…yep.
I have never had a single issue getting a 4mm to tune as well as a 5mm – where did this weird 4mm theory start?
Not sure, but idea of smaller diameter=less drag= more penetration= better chance of a pass through= better blood trail. Full disclosure this is the mental gymnastics I did, I do shoot 4mm, killed a few elk with 5mm fmj, but went back to carbon fiber as my fmj’s seemed kind of fragile, but I wasn’t using a collar at the time. I digress… bottom line, sharp broadhead on a tune bow with proper spined shaft, BUT most importantly a properly placed shot will kill. Doesn’t matter if it’s 2 blade, 3 blade, this FoC that FoC, single bevel, heck even a mechanical will do the trick
When people figured out they couldn’t use 8-32 heads without outserts in them. IMO 4mm was a solution to a problem that didn’t really exist, which actually created problems with its execution.
For me, I like having a thicker carbon wall – seems to be a touch more durable. But I'm fine with 5mm as well. I know how to tune, so I just tune whatever I'm using and put something sharp on it. I've seen some chatter about oscillation and stabilization, which sounds like nonsense to me.
