Suppressor shoulder collar or not?

[TheCougar]

I just dropped off three rifles to be chopped and threaded for my entry into suppressed shooting. The rifles are all Tikka T3x Lites in 223, 6.5, and 7 REM Mag. Based on where he is chopping them, between 18-20”, he says there is not enough shoulder to support a 5/8 thread without a “collar”. He said options are to use 1/2 threads or use 5/8 threads with the collar. The collar is basically a steel collar that is chamfered on the action side as it steps up from the barrel diameter, and provides a fake shoulder for the can, enabling thinner barrels to have sufficient shoulder with the larger thread sizes. He says he has done this before and left the option up to me to go 5/8 with the collar or 1/2 without. I do know that since I only have one can (on order) and probably will get a second one in the distant future, having a single thread pitch will greatly facilitate switching between rifles. Any thoughts?

 

[Jimbee]

I have a couple rifles with collars, I'd go that route

 

[WeiserBucks]

Collar

 

[TheCougar]

I have a couple rifles with collars, I'd go that route

What is your rationale? I’m ignorant on the considerations.

 

[T28w]

Who is doing the work for you?

 

[WeiserBucks]

Collar gets you a good shoulder to seat your muzzle device against. 5/8-24 is a really standard size across the industry opening up plenty of options for a huge variety of products you might want to use.

 

[wesfromky]

Is your suppressor hub compatible? If so, you can get direct thread or QD adapters for whatever thread pitch or muzzle device you want. Seems like 1/2x28 is pretty standard for .223/9mm/350 and 5/8x24 for larger.

 

[Jimbee]

What is your rationale? I’m ignorant on the considerations.

It's handy for me to have everything 5/8.

 

[wind gypsy]

When looking at muzzle threads I typically want to leave as much meat on the barrel as possible, thus why the collar is ideal. I'm curious though, how is he locking the collar in place? Indexing on the muzzle face?

If chopping @ 18" there should be enough shoulder for 9/16" threads on a lite contour. 1/2" threads are common on 223s but its nice to go bigger threads with bigger bores.

Some more background on why I lean towards biggest threads possible even though lots of people have 1/2" threaded barrels that shoot great for many rounds:

Barrel End Threading — Bigger Diameter is Better « Daily Bulletin

Our friend Robert Whitley of ARX Enterprises LLC has learned, through careful measurement and testing, that some barrels threaded 5/8 x 24 TPI at the muzzle may not deliver optimal accuracy.

bulletin.accurateshooter.com

 

[Jimbee]

When looking at muzzle threads I typically want to leave as much meat on the barrel as possible, thus why the collar is ideal. I'm curious though, how is he locking the collar in place? Indexing on the muzzle face?

If chopping @ 18" there should be enough shoulder for 9/16" threads on a lite contour. 1/2" threads are common on 223s but its nice to go bigger threads with bigger bores.

Some more background on why I lean towards biggest threads possible even though lots of people have 1/2" threaded barrels that shoot great for many rounds:

Barrel End Threading — Bigger Diameter is Better « Daily Bulletin

Our friend Robert Whitley of ARX Enterprises LLC has learned, through careful measurement and testing, that some barrels threaded 5/8 x 24 TPI at the muzzle may not deliver optimal accuracy.

bulletin.accurateshooter.com

My gunsmith has "glued" little metal rings to the barrel create a shoulder. It looks like a pex plumbing crimp ring. Seems pretty simple and adds no length or unnecessary weight

 

[fwafwow]

I just dropped off three rifles to be chopped and threaded for my entry into suppressed shooting. The rifles are all Tikka T3x Lites in 223, 6.5, and 7 REM Mag. Based on where he is chopping them, between 18-20”, he says there is not enough shoulder to support a 5/8 thread without a “collar”. He said options are to use 1/2 threads or use 5/8 threads with the collar. The collar is basically a steel collar that is chamfered on the action side as it steps up from the barrel diameter, and provides a fake shoulder for the can, enabling thinner barrels to have sufficient shoulder with the larger thread sizes. He says he has done this before and left the option up to me to go 5/8 with the collar or 1/2 without. I do know that since I only have one can (on order) and probably will get a second one in the distant future, having a single thread pitch will greatly facilitate switching between rifles. Any thoughts?

I went with the Thunder Beast CB adapter on all of my bolt actions, including my 223 Tikka T3X cut to 16.5”

 

[Tahoe1305]

I have a superlite threaded for 6.5C at 21.5” (thinner muzzle than all of yours based on length) threaded 1/2-28. No issues.

I’d consider a collar for the 7mm though and 5/8s. Most say .30 cal should have thicker threads (many still use 1/2 though without issue), but I’d hedge my bets a bit.

If you want to use the same direct thread adapter obviously I’d do them all the same. That would be 1/2 without or 5/8 with a collar.

 

[wind gypsy]

My gunsmith has "glued" little metal rings to the barrel create a shoulder. It looks like a pex plumbing crimp ring. Seems pretty simple and adds no length or unnecessary weightView attachment 644396

It's gotta index off something though, no? Would need to be some pretty damn strong adhesive if it's going to stay put.

 

[Wapiti1]

First, the largest thread possible is what you want. Yes, 1/2" work, and are safe, but that is to be used when you can't get a larger thread. i.e. as a necessity, not as the standard.

You want the shoulder to be 0.1" tall or more. Less will work, but be mindful of why taller is better.

This does two things: forces alignment and provides seating friction to keep your suppressor tight.

If the barrel is thick enough, great. If not, have a collar made. A baffle strike on a loose can just makes for a bad day.

The above is regardless of thread size and just a rule of thumb.

I would go 5/8" and add a collar for seating. No question.

Jeremy

 

[KHNC]

I also use QC's on my Omega 30 . Several are 1/2-28 after chopping and several are 5/8-24. I have two adaptors and all has been well. I even have 1/2-28 on my 16" 7-08 with no issues.

 

[Jimbee]

It's gotta index off something though, no? Would need to be some pretty damn strong adhesive if it's going to stay put.

I don't know the process, but it looks like it's installed and then threads and relief cut are cut into it.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

If you want to direct thread without those little adapter things then have them install a collar. To me it’s 100% worth it. There was no way I was going to install those weird muzzle devices on all my rifles.

 

[ABK]

Tikka T3 Lite in .308 chopped to 18in and threaded with a shoulder.

If you want to direct thread without those little adapter things then have them install a collar. To me it’s 100% worth it. There was no way I was going to install those weird muzzle devices on all my rifles.

 

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

Collar imho with 5/8x24. You have the correct size threads for any can over 5.56 size directly on your barrel which are stronger AND absolutely concentric. The fitted shoulder is also machined perfectly in alignment. Using smaller threads you need adapters which can work but are stacking tolerances and are just one more thing to cause potential headaches (adapter seizes in the can when you're moving it between rifles for instance).

If starting from scratch I'd absolutely do a collar. Think about it this way, what is the downside when done by a qualified smith?

 

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

It's gotta index off something though, no? Would need to be some pretty damn strong adhesive if it's going to stay put.

My understanding is there is a bit of shoulder to torque up against and then something like rockset or redloctite along all the threads to lock it firmly in place, then its faced off and contoured. Seems absolutely adequate as a surface to firmly hand tighten something up against, why would you think all that surface area with threadlocker would be overcome by that hand tight friction at the shoulder?