Stuck on Quick Drop

[HuntHarder]

Like long range lead said there is almost always a good gun/ bad gun factor.. if you post or send your ballistic profile we can help you with that. My .223 is a “bad” gun and has a correction factor of +.3..

So essentially range -2, +/- .3 (either 1.7 or 2.3) depending which side of bad your gun is on, for your .223? This holds true and is linear out to say 700 yards?

 

[huckfin]

With faster cartridges I have found running a 200 yard zero and memorizing the holds for 300,400,500 is easier. Then use your QD for ranges 600-800 where the bullet has slowed down enough that its trajectory lines up for a QD solution.

 

[Wprinkle]

So essentially range -2, +/- .3 (either 1.7 or 2.3) depending which side of bad your gun is on, for your .223? This holds true and is linear out to say 700 yards?

It’s essentially-2 for an average gun.. the +.3 was an example as i have a 16” barrel on my 223 and with practice ammo fairly poor speeds. This is much easier to explain on words (for me) if you would like help pm me and I’ll send you my number.. once you see it you “got it”.: back to Ryan’s question for my fast 6mm is was close enough to use quick drop but i backed off speed just a little and it works perfectly out past 700. Next barrel will be shorter to accomplish this without having to back off powder charges..

 

[Jimbee]

I've shot a few NRL Hunter matches and having a combo that works for quick drop is so much faster than having to look at a dope card. I can definitely see the value in slowing a cartridge down to accommodate easy mental math. My 6mms don't line up very well but would probably be close enough if I used "average gun" to around 400yds and "good gun" for further distance if I was in a hurry.

 

[SkeeterMcgiblet]

I've shot a few NRL Hunter matches and having a combo that works for quick drop is so much faster than having to look at a dope card. I can definitely see the value in slowing a cartridge down to accommodate easy mental math. My 6mms don't line up very well but would probably be close enough if I used "average gun" to around 400yds and "good gun" for further distance if I was in a hurry.

Form's QD & Wind is the main reasons I feel I had success at NRL as a noob who had never shot past 300 yds last season and even felt comfortable enough signing up for a competition. My 22" 308 with 168s @ ~2675 hits almost exact to "minus 2.0" out to 700 (Colorado, DA around 7-10k average). Prepping for my first match I made the cheat sheet below and would practice getting shot solutions with random numbers from a dungeons and dragons die set. It may not be perfect but I think it was a great starting point and hopefully it can help someone else.

I feel understanding the actual margin for error with QD as being very important, personally I made a chart that showed me when QD would put me past an error of 3" at each range.

I'm a construction nerd who's life is "high stakes basic math" and use excel for everything and felt seeing the data in a table helped me understand the system the best.

Its such an easy & reliable system that I've pondered getting a 6.5 prc or 6 creed and chopping barrel to maintain the "minus 2" QD and have a great short mountain rifle that works for the realistic ranges I'd shoot.

 

[longrangelead]

So essentially range -2, +/- .3 (either 1.7 or 2.3) depending which side of bad your gun is on, for your .223? This holds true and is linear out to say 700 yards?

basically yes, there is more to it for good/bad but it's hard to articulate the simplicity typing it out.

 

[SkeeterMcgiblet]

Form's QD & Wind is the main reasons I feel I had success at NRL as a noob who had never shot past 300 yds last season and even felt comfortable enough signing up for a competition. My 22" 308 with 168s @ ~2675 hits almost exact to "minus 2.0" out to 700 (Colorado, DA around 7-10k average). Prepping for my first match I made the cheat sheet below and would practice getting shot solutions with random numbers from a dungeons and dragons die set. It may not be perfect but I think it was a great starting point and hopefully it can help someone else.

I feel understanding the actual margin for error with QD as being very important, personally I made a chart that showed me when QD would put me past an error of 3" at each range.

I'm a construction nerd who's life is "high stakes basic math" and use excel for everything and felt seeing the data in a table helped me understand the system the best.

Its such an easy & reliable system that I've pondered getting a 6.5 prc or 6 creed and chopping barrel to maintain the "minus 2" QD and have a great short mountain rifle that works for the realistic ranges I'd shoot.

Also to further nerd out I had a "modified" QD for 175s at ~2600 fps that came out to "minus 2, plus 0.2" from "average gun" for a QD factor of 1.8. The greyed out areas are ones that I figured were a constant (200, 300 yds) and need to be calced or hard doped (past 600 yds). Red highlihts are for anything over 0.3 mil error from actual dope which I deemed "un-acceptable" for precision.

 

[BBob]

With faster cartridges I have found running a 200 yard zero and memorizing the holds for 300,400,500 is easier. Then use your QD for ranges 600-800 where the bullet has slowed down enough that its trajectory lines up for a QD solution.

I have a ballistic twin to a 6UM IMP and this (200yd zero) works pretty darn well. It uses a base -3 correction plus a yardage correction factor. Not sure I can type it out to make sense but I could try.

Edit: I’ll add that it adds a little extra mental gymnastics and isn’t as fast as with a rifle that fits the perfect QD mold. It’s doable but you have to remember the corrections just for this rifle. In the end probably not faster than a range card but you wouldn’t have to come off the rifle to do it with the modified QD.

 

[lefthandedasian]

Next barrel will be shorter to accomplish this without having to back off powder charges..

Excuse my ignorance, I don't reload at all (or yet) but why would you do this exactly? Seems like both ways accomplish the same velocity out of the barrel which results in the same QD and effective range right? A longer barrel with less powder charge seems like it would give (marginally) less recoil, less muzzle blast and be cheaper on your wallet by saving powder. Would running a full charge reduce SD's or something like that to make the full charge more advantageous? Like I said I don't know anything about reloading but seems silly to me to cut the barrel down and use more power and increase reload costs, more recoil and more muzzle blast just to achieve the same velocity as the previous setup.

 

[Nine Banger]

Excuse my ignorance, I don't reload at all (or yet) but why would you do this exactly? Seems like both ways accomplish the same velocity out of the barrel which results in the same QD and effective range right? A longer barrel with less powder charge seems like it would give (marginally) less recoil, less muzzle blast and be cheaper on your wallet by saving powder. Would running a full charge reduce SD's or something like that to make the full charge more advantageous? Like I said I don't know anything about reloading but seems silly to me to cut the barrel down and use more power and increase reload costs, more recoil and more muzzle blast just to achieve the same velocity as the previous setup.

Take a look at @longrangelead's gun up a few posts. (Speaking of which, Lowe's called, they want their 2x4 back.)

It's fun to carry around a short gun with an OTB suppressor.

It's easy to get Quick Drop with 22 creed and 6 creed and short barrels.

 

[longrangelead]

Take a look at @longrangelead's gun up a few posts. (Speaking of which, Lowe's called, they want their 2x4 back.)

It's fun to carry around a short gun with an OTB suppressor.

It's easy to get Quick Drop with 22 creed and 6 creed and short barrels.


View attachment 979292View attachment 979293

that Maple 2x4 is just "rustic"

 

[longrangelead]

Excuse my ignorance, I don't reload at all (or yet) but why would you do this exactly? Seems like both ways accomplish the same velocity out of the barrel which results in the same QD and effective range right? A longer barrel with less powder charge seems like it would give (marginally) less recoil, less muzzle blast and be cheaper on your wallet by saving powder. Would running a full charge reduce SD's or something like that to make the full charge more advantageous? Like I said I don't know anything about reloading but seems silly to me to cut the barrel down and use more power and increase reload costs, more recoil and more muzzle blast just to achieve the same velocity as the previous setup.

I worked down in barrel length to get to QD velocity so I'm not really doing anything different than if I had a long barrel.
I wanted QD #1 and a short barrel #2
I shot it at factory length for velocity. (22"?)
again at 16"
again at 15"
again at 14.5"

I considered 14" but then I'd have to do as you describe and start working for it.

Admittedly, this is with a near max load in brass with the shallow shoulder angle of the 243 case.
The same load in Fury cases is 50ish fps faster without the pressure/shoulder issue(slight bolt lift only). I'm loading less in the Fury case to do the same thing as brass currently.
If I AI the chamber I'm positive brass would be just fine again due to less case growth.

It might seem like a lot of work or the long way around but it's the same thing as doing a 7-300 Norma improved to shoot x bullet @ 3600fps right?

it meets the intended goal.