Struggling to Achieve a Zero at 100 yards.

[Ethan-333]

Like others said, I’d try 4 or 5 different boxes of ammo to see what shoots the best. And if still nothing after that I’d check the scope out.

 

[DropTyne]

Start with low hanging fruit first. Try another load and focus on your shooting technique. Take your time and make sure you aren't flinching. Dry fire a few times before you actually load a live round.

I would recommend 165 Federal Fusions as one of your trial loads. They are cheap and have shot extremely well in 4 different 30-06s for me. Disclaimer, I have never shot them at game, but they make impressive groups.

If this doesn't work, you will need to look at your scope and mounts. When possible, it is good practice to shoot a new rifle with a proven scope, that way you eliminate as many unknown variables as you can. I also like to shoot new scopes on proven rifles for the same reason.

To answer your other question, premium ammo can make a big difference if your rifle likes the load. But, rifles also can shoot cheaper ammo really well also.

My rifle shoots the factory Barnes TTSX 168gr really well (which is what I am taking to Montana in elk season). I have also had great luck with Nosler ammo in several rifles. However, I recommend making sure your rifle/scope system will shoot the cheap stuff before spending $40/box on ammo.

Good luck!

 

[TheGDog]

I second the Barnes VOR-TX TTSX 168gr rounds. They do DAMAGE! Like a 5" circle of bloodshot around the entrance wound, and total pass-thru. And it knocked that deer at 40yds like 10" sideways before it slammed it's tail-end down anchored right there. Front legs just flailed for a bit, was all she wrote. Made for a wonderful first-deer experience!

 

[OXN939]

I second the Barnes VOR-TX TTSX 168gr rounds. They do DAMAGE! Like a 5" circle of bloodshot around the entrance wound, and total pass-thru. And it knocked that deer at 40yds like 10" sideways before it slammed it's tail-end down anchored right there. Front legs just flailed for a bit, was all she wrote. Made for a wonderful first-deer experience!

Third.

 

[Texasbuckeye]

For someone that says publicly they don’t have good shooting form, I would recommend a lot of dry fire, and a lighter recoiling gun. For elk, there are plenty of easier to shoot options than the 30-06. If you flinch at the shot, it doesn’t matter how much you dry fire. What you can do to see if you flinch is buy a snap cap, have someone else load the magazine, and then fire through. It will be obvious to you if you flinch. There’s no reason to fight with it after that, you will likely always flinch on that platform so move away from it.
Now, if you don’t flinch, then you need to work more dry fire and as someone said buy a .22 or .223 and work on form. If you can get good form in those it can translate over, but not with a flinch.
Next step would be trying different brands and weights of ammo. Whenever I work a gun I get a rough zero, then run several types of ammo through to see what works best. Then I zero with that ammo. A 3-5 shot group is usually enough to tell me what is best in the gun. But, I have decent form so I trust my shot. When something isn’t right, I know it usually isn’t me. Starting from your spot, work on the mechanics of shooting first, then try different ammo second. A 5 dollar snap cap is a lot cheaper than a couple boxes of ammo and that money could be out to a new gun if you flinch.

 

[Reburn]

For someone that says publicly they don’t have good shooting form, I would recommend a lot of dry fire, and a lighter recoiling gun. For elk, there are plenty of easier to shoot options than the 30-06. If you flinch at the shot, it doesn’t matter how much you dry fire. What you can do to see if you flinch is buy a snap cap, have someone else load the magazine, and then fire through. It will be obvious to you if you flinch. There’s no reason to fight with it after that, you will likely always flinch on that platform so move away from it.
Now, if you don’t flinch, then you need to work more dry fire and as someone said buy a .22 or .223 and work on form. If you can get good form in those it can translate over, but not with a flinch.
Next step would be trying different brands and weights of ammo. Whenever I work a gun I get a rough zero, then run several types of ammo through to see what works best. Then I zero with that ammo. A 3-5 shot group is usually enough to tell me what is best in the gun. But, I have decent form so I trust my shot. When something isn’t right, I know it usually isn’t me. Starting from your spot, work on the mechanics of shooting first, then try different ammo second. A 5 dollar snap cap is a lot cheaper than a couple boxes of ammo and that money could be out to a new gun if you flinch.

Thanks for talking logically and saving me a bunch of typing.

 

[Rich M]

First thing I thought of was tightening the mounts and rings.

Second thing I thought of was to have someone else shoot the gun and see what they get.

It's frustrating until you get it dialed and then it's fun.

Good Luck!

 

[TheGDog]

And for spits and giggles, do your initial sight at a shorter distance first. Like use a ballistic app to calculate how far below bullseye you should be @25yds for your load and scope line of height (I often use the Nikon Spoton app for this). Use a ruler and draw that line below the bullseye. YOu aim for the bullseye though, but you want your POI at that shorter distance to be on that line below.

Then when it looks pretty good @25yds then move it out to 100yd and fine-tune the zero. Also remember to calculate ahead of time how much each 1/4 MOA click will move the POI @25yds instead, that'll save ya few shots too.

 

[WCB]

Good info for the most part above...the two simplest ways to go would be to remount base and scope making sure everything is tight. Get at least 2 different ammo options and go out and shoot the ones you have and the other two. Or, just buy the other ammo and shoot all three options if all three are bad somethings goofy with the mounting situation.

Just generally speaking 30-06s like 165 grain bullets, again in general. Of course bullet shape/material can play a role in it as well. You could just get a lower grain Core Lokt and try it. Or get something with a boat tail. Or do both and go to a ligher bullet with a boat tail. I have had the same grain weight but 2 different bullet designs shoot completely different out of a .308. On shot bout 1.5-2" the other no joking shot not only about 6" higher but 3 shots weren't even with 9" of each other.

 

[Desk Jockey]

1) try a different gun. That will confirm if it is you or the rifle
2) different ammo might help
3) swap the scope out for something else even a cheap dime store scope is fine for 100 yards

if none of that works then you know it’s the rifle.

 

[EastMT]

My buddy did have a brand new VX3i that was bad from the factory. He sent it in and it had a large list of repairs done to it. He spent like $300 trying to make ammo pattern thinking the rifle was picky

 

[sont5413]

Good info for the most part above...the two simplest ways to go would be to remount base and scope making sure everything is tight. Get at least 2 different ammo options and go out and shoot the ones you have and the other two. Or, just buy the other ammo and shoot all three options if all three are bad somethings goofy with the mounting situation.

Just generally speaking 30-06s like 165 grain bullets, again in general. Of course bullet shape/material can play a role in it as well. You could just get a lower grain Core Lokt and try it. Or get something with a boat tail. Or do both and go to a ligher bullet with a boat tail. I have had the same grain weight but 2 different bullet designs shoot completely different out of a .308. On shot bout 1.5-2" the other no joking shot not only about 6" higher but 3 shots weren't even with 9" of each other.

The base is bedded. Not real interested in using a heat gun to get it off.

Here's what the base and rings are torqued down to in inch-pounds

action screws: 20 (that's what EGW said to torque them to)
windage screws (whatever you call them . . . the screw that attaches the rings to the base): 30
ring screws: 17

Yeah, to me the take-away here is that I need to shoot the shit out of my newly acquired .17 HMR and after that try out some different bullets.

 

[sont5413]

My buddy did have a brand new VX3i that was bad from the factory. He sent it in and it had a large list of repairs done to it. He spent like $300 trying to make ammo pattern thinking the rifle was picky

That's too bad . . . So basically he shot a bunch of different ammo and nothing grouped acceptably and that led him to think that it was the scope?

 

[sont5413]

First thing I thought of was tightening the mounts and rings.

Second thing I thought of was to have someone else shoot the gun and see what they get.

It's frustrating until you get it dialed and then it's fun.

Good Luck!

Thanks.

Here's what the base and rings are torqued down to in inch-pounds

action screws: 20 (that's what EGW said to torque them to)
windage screws (whatever you call them . . . the screw that attaches the rings to the base): 30
ring screws: 17

 

[sndmn11]

I can't tell from your picture, if it is an ADL be mindful of the action screws. It is very easy to get some strange pressure points with the three screw bottom.

 

[EastMT]

That's too bad . . . So basically he shot a bunch of different ammo and nothing grouped acceptably and that led him to think that it was the scope?

Yeah, we ended up changing to an old Bushnell elite 10x40 that I had laying around and it shot great. It was a brand new Hells canyon, brand new scope, so needed something proven to single out factors.

I believe the replaced dang near everything inside the scope that moved. When he got it back the AO was glued and wouldn’t turn. They felt bad at that point and called, sent him an upgrade scope, I don’t remember the exact model but let him pick it out.

 

[Rich M]

Thanks.

Here's what the base and rings are torqued down to in inch-pounds

action screws: 20 (that's what EGW said to torque them to)
windage screws (whatever you call them . . . the screw that attaches the rings to the base): 30
ring screws: 17

It's a typical issue for some folks. Glad you are on top of it.

The other suggestion was if someone else can shoot a tighter group you know it is you and not the equipment.

There are days I don't shoot it as well as I'd like.

 

[MTarrowflinger]

And for spits and giggles, do your initial sight at a shorter distance first. Like use a ballistic app to calculate how far below bullseye you should be @25yds for your load and scope line of height (I often use the Nikon Spoton app for this). Use a ruler and draw that line below the bullseye. YOu aim for the bullseye though, but you want your POI at that shorter distance to be on that line below.

Then when it looks pretty good @25yds then move it out to 100yd and fine-tune the zero. Also remember to calculate ahead of time how much each 1/4 MOA click will move the POI @25yds instead, that'll save ya few shots too.

I'd work on the 3 MOA issue before trying to zero the rifle at any distance.



OP - Sorry if I missed this somewhere else. How old is the rifle? How long since it's been cleaned thoroughly?

 

[tdot]

Lots of good advice so far. Sorry if this sounds very basic, but I'm assuming you're a newish shooter, and sometimes the basics can be missed.

If it is hot during your test firing, you may be struggling with mirage. If it is windy, it may be effecting the bullets flight.

 

[sont5413]

I'd work on the 3 MOA issue before trying to zero the rifle at any distance.



OP - Sorry if I missed this somewhere else. How old is the rifle? How long since it's been cleaned thoroughly?

Not sure, to be honest. It was a gift from my dad and we don't have much information about it. As for the cleaning, I read a pretty good argument recently in a thread on rokslide talking about cleaning not really affecting accuracy all that much. Although, I have an open mind on this topic.