Stripped action screw head on Tikka

[HighUintas]

I won't go into how my action screw head on my Tikka ended up stripped, but it is.

Has anyone used a spiral screw extractor on their Tikka action screw before? I'm thinking of giving it a shot, but wanted to hear if anyone has tried it and ended up making it worse.

My plan A of putting some Devcon into the stripped head along with my torx bit didn't work. The epoxy just crumbled when I tried to loosen the screw .

 

[Oldffemt]

If the head isn’t completely stripped you could try putting some valve lapping compound on the torx bit. You can find it at any auto parts store, comes in a small tube that should last a lifetime. However, you managed to strip out a torx screw that’s only supposed to be ~45 inch lbs, so....maybe get 2 tubes?

 

[Outdoorsman12b]

Try putting in a vice so you have great downward pressure. Play with other Torx sizes up and hex heads. You should get it out. I have used screw extractors with success.

 

[HighUintas]

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll play around with some larger bits first.

What's the valve lapping compound supposed to do? It is pretty darn stripped

 

[Fatcamp]

So your threads are stripped or you have a broken screw in the action?

You might consider letting a gunsmith takeover.

 

[tunafed]

What's the valve lapping compound supposed to do? It is pretty darn stripped

The lapping compound just adds some grit between the screw and bit which can give it a little more grip.
If the screw is epoxy'd in I would try and support the rifle someway so not to damage it and give the screw a few whacks with a hammer using the torx bit or a punch first.

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[HiMtnHntr]

Sounds like the torx head is rounded off. In that case I might try to drill out the head and pull the action and barrel. Then you could get a vise grips on it.

 

[fightthenoise]

Can you dremel a slot and use a flat head screwdriver?

 

[HighUintas]

So your threads are stripped or you have a broken screw in the action?

You might consider letting a gunsmith takeover.

Not the threads. Just the screw head. The torx "teeth" within the head are completely rounded

 

[HighUintas]

The lapping compound just adds some grit between the screw and bit which can give it a little more grip.
If the screw is epoxy'd in I would try and support the rifle someway so not to damage it and give the screw a few whacks with a hammer using the torx bit or a punch first.

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I see. I didn't epoxy the screw in. I've done some dumb things, but that I know would be a very bad idea! I did use blue threadlocker on the action screws and they're torqued to 65 in/lbs because my stock is bedded with bedding conmpound and pillars. So, it's definitely in there tight!! I hadn't planned to remove the stock for a quite awhile and wanted to make sure the screws wouldn't work themselves loose, but I noticed a circlip on the ground that I'm 98% sure came from my trigger. It's not a critical part for the function of the trigger, but it could potentially cause a problem at some point so I need to get in there to fix it.

 

[HighUintas]

Sounds like the torx head is rounded off. In that case I might try to drill out the head and pull the action and barrel. Then you could get a vise grips on it.

I had someone on another thread suggest this. That is my last resort plan. The way the action screws are beveled and my bottom metal screw holes being somewhat countersunk, trying to drill the head out could be tough.

Can you dremel a slot and use a flat head screwdriver?

I thought of this. I haven't looked to see if the radius of my dremel wheels are small enough to get into the bottom metal screw recess without damaging the bottom metal. I'm glad you suggest it though. It makes me feel better about trying it.

 

[Fatcamp]

JB Weld a bolt or piece of rodstock and let cure. Might work. Or use an EZ Out. Works best with a drill press but I've done it by hand many times. Just go slow and use lots of lube.

ETA: Supposed to say EZ not EX.

 

[vonb]

Might try some paper towel around the bit so that it creates a compression fitting. It’s an old mechanic truck used with sockets and stripped bolt heads.

 

[HiMtnHntr]

Put the rifle in a vise and use a drill bit the same size as the bolt shank. Drill into the head down about the depth if the head (use the other action screw as a guide). If she don't come off, move up a drill bit size. That head will come off eventually.

 

[Blockcaver]

Give the screw heads a good rap with a proper sized punch and hammer, especially since you used blue loc-tite and really torqued them down. Likely will help. But by the sounds of it a trip to a trusted gunsmith might be in order.

 

[Shane431]

Probably gunsmith time. They can probably knock this out pretty quick pending how busy they are. The last thing you want to do is make the situation worse.

 

[HighUintas]

I was considering that. I still need to find my secret gunsmith for my area. Does anyone know of a really good gunsmith in the SLC valley area? I'd like to have one of those old guys that's fun to talk to and really knows his stuff.

 

[Deerfield]

Put the rifle in a vise and use a drill bit the same size as the bolt shank. Drill into the head down about the depth if the head (use the other action screw as a guide). If she don't come off, move up a drill bit size. That head will come off eventually.

This is the trick that I tend to use. Does a good job of knocking the head off and then you can get vice grips on it.

 

[Oldffemt]

Once you’ve drilled almost all the way through the head you should be able to snap the head off using the drill bit in the hole you’ve drilled. I worked on aircraft for a few years and this is how we avoided ruining the holes when parts needed to be changed. Slotting the head is also a solid option if the wheel you have is small enough. You could also go to yardstore.com and order a left hand twist drill bit and it may come out while drilling. If you’ve loktited the screws they’ll need a good whack to break the bond. Good luck

 

[HighUintas]

Just an update.

I picked up a screw extractor kit from harbor freight because I happened to be there and they had one for $9. I tried it and of course it didn't work like many products I have bought from harbor freight. After drilling on the screw head with the bits ind the kit I was far enough into the screw had that I figured I would just keep going and see if I could get the head completely off. It worked out just fine and the head came off leaving only the screw stud and no damage to my bottom metal. I was able to get the other action screw out, replaced the circlip on my trigger, and put my action back into the stock with my new action screws.

for anyone with the same issue, I would also recommend just drilling into the screw head. It's pretty easy to drill straight down into the screw being centered in the middle of the head.

Thanks for the suggestions!