Strike plate bump out?

[Billy Goat]

So I'm getting ready to tune a new set of arrows on a BW PSA. I think I'm going to put a new strike plate on it and shelf pad. I have been in the habit of putting a short and whittled down piece of match stick under the strike plate to bring the shaft off the riser a bit, wondering now why I do this? I have a cut past center riser that I'm now loosing that, or a portion of it. Why did I start doing this? I can't remember.....


So, is there something about a smaller contact patch being more forgiving?

Or since I'll need a weaker spine to get it to tune, does that make it more forgiving?


I feel like I mostly know compounds, most trad stuff I still only know enough to be dangerous with.

Don't exactly know how far the riser is cut, but it's not cut out too much for .246 carbon shafts.

Suggestions?

 

[Recurve Man]

I'm a keep it simple kinda guy. Ive always been that guy who files on my riser or puts the widled down match stick as well. For the simple reason of the least amount if contact to the shaft. If it works do it. Most bows now days are built less contact shelves anyway. I've shot alot of different bows and some just shoot good no matter what you do to them. Had one also i like to never got tuned. Question i ask is why you changing your rest and rise pad out. Ive shot thousands of arrows off the Widow i have now and its just as good as day one.

 

[Billy Goat]

Cause I don't like the look. I have some calf hair to replace the velcro I originally put on. I did that initially cause it was something I had, want to go with the calf hair now.

The shelf keeps lifting also, so just going to redo it all.

 

[Wrench]

If the arrow contacts directly above the contact point of your hand, torque is at it's minimum.

Think if you twisted a pistol in your hand, the rear sight stays pretty close to center, but the front moves a bunch.