Stocky’s Hunter VG Tikka stock

I put just a small (less than a quarter inch thick) piece of sticky foam on one and it was perfect. No real cheek riser needed.
 
Question for all you fellas out there with much more gunsmithing knowledge than I. Recently purchased this stock and it came without a recoil lug, so I picked up from Oregon Mountain Rifle.. this thing is snug and I’ve been wailing on it for about half hour now to get it seated. Stockys site says spec is .07” - .09”, but I have no way to measure that accurately. Is this lug too proud?

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If it is seated all the way down then it should be good. If you set your barreled action down and torque it down, it should make marks on the flat area behind the recoil lug. If it doesn’t then it isn’t in deep enough. But, I just bedded mine and it fits way better. I would just do that, personally..
 
If it is seated all the way down then it should be good. If you set your barreled action down and torque it down, it should make marks on the flat area behind the recoil lug. If it doesn’t then it isn’t in deep enough. But, I just bedded mine and it fits way better. I would just do that, personally..
Can’t tell if it’s seated all the way honestly, had to use a small mallet to get it down. Everything seemed to torque down fine, guess I’ll see how it shoots.
 
Is it common to need a riser on these stocks? One of the main reasons I ordered was because I thought it was going to help with the eye alignment
Depends on what people like. I was just replying to an earlier thread to let folks know about another riser option (which is great on standard T3X stocks, and I toyed with putting on a carbon stock that is similar to the Stockys VG).
 
Is it common to need a riser on these stocks? One of the main reasons I ordered was because I thought it was going to help with the eye alignment
I have one on a Bergara with a 40mm objective scope in low rings. No need for a riser. Comb is higher than factory Tikka or Bergara sporter stocks.
 
thanks that’s probably close to what I have with a tikka with sports match mids and a 42mm
I don’t know measurements of the sports match, but I’ve got a picatinny rail with swfa low rings on the Bergara, so my setup is low but not super low.

ETA: my scope on that rifle is a 42mm objective instead of 40mm.
 
I’ve got a Stockys VG coming for my Tikka 6.5 prc. I’d like to put the new mdt bipod on it. Has anyone put the SRS pic rail that uses the existing sling stud hole on one of these? Or other suggestions for attaching that specific bipod? Thanks
 
For those that have made modifications using the Air Foam epoxy, was it fairly easy to work with? What was the best method you found for applying it and getting it built up where you need it?

I built the grips up with some liquid epoxy I had laying around (terrible idea, extremely messy and toxic to shape with a flap disk), and also tried some plumbers 2 part but it feels like it could be fairly weak and chip easily. Would like to redo the grips this winter, and maybe add some material to flatten and square up the skimpy forend.

Any advice appreciated!
 
I’ve got a Stockys VG coming for my Tikka 6.5 prc. I’d like to put the new mdt bipod on it. Has anyone put the SRS pic rail that uses the existing sling stud hole on one of these? Or other suggestions for attaching that specific bipod? Thanks
The @Wiser Shane ones come with hardware.

 
For those that have made modifications using the Air Foam epoxy, was it fairly easy to work with? What was the best method you found for applying it and getting it built up where you need it?

I built the grips up with some liquid epoxy I had laying around (terrible idea, extremely messy and toxic to shape with a flap disk), and also tried some plumbers 2 part but it feels like it could be fairly weak and chip easily. Would like to redo the grips this winter, and maybe add some material to flatten and square up the skimpy forend.

Any advice appreciated!
Easy to work with. Like play dough but a little stickier. Also toxic. What worked best for me was to build up a ball about the size I wanted and then press and shape it onto the stock wearing nitrile gloves. Once in place, I don’t touch it. Trying to smooth the finish only peels it away from the stock. It’s easy to sand after curing. It cures with a rough surface that is great for bonding another layer
 
It’s not as rock solid as liquid epoxy but it feels strong and light. You can get an idea of the roughness of the cured epoxy from the first two pictures. I was uncertain how it would turn out, but it bonded very well to a sanded (40 grit) polymer stock.

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It’s not as rock solid as liquid epoxy but it feels strong and light. You can get an idea of the roughness of the cured epoxy from the first two pictures. I was uncertain how it would turn out, but it bonded very well to a sanded (40 grit) polymer stock.

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It dries hard enough to hold a screw ?
Did you put anything into the stock prior to applying it for it to grab to? Thanks
 
It dries hard enough to hold a screw ?
Yes, for that buttpad. I wouldn’t want to remove the screws many times or I expect it would strip out. I also wouldn’t mount a sling stud without reinforcing it. I expect something like a t-nut would be ok if buried deep enough.
Did you put anything into the stock prior to applying it for it to grab to?
No. I sanded it with 40 grit. You can see the factory primer layer (white along the border of the epoxy) in the last pic. I’d say I sanded about half of the outside of the stock down to black plastic and half of it still had white primer. I sanded the inside as best I could then pressed in the epoxy.
You’re welcome
 
Any experience using it on a walnut stock?
I’ve got a sporter style grip that needs to be more vertical.

Thanks
 
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