Stocky’s Hunter VG Tikka stock

[ericacymcdonald]

will have sporter barrel and heavy barrel channel inlets on the Winchester 70.

We're doing the engineering now on the Model 70s so we're still tweaking stock designs and such to accommodate the receiver properly. Once it's finalized we'll get molds cut and then the lamination process will start. Any questions you have that I ca

All right here are the coupon codes:
Rok30- 30% off all of our carbon fiber stocks
Rok20- 20% off all barrels

Only applies to new orders

Any questions, let me know!

Edited to add: the coupon will expire 11/19...

How do I order the m70 before the 19th!!!

 

[roosiebull]

I had held out for a 6mm Tikka or Sako and ended up buying the 6.5 CM Sako. Do I need to start to put together a 6CM Tikka too? I mean, I already have an extra set of the UM Tikka rings, so I really can’t let them go unused, right?

We think alike

 

[richmsd]

Glad I found this thread as I'm building light weight 280AI mountain rifle this winter. Thanks to all for
the info and Big Thanks to Stocky's looking forward to the new Rok stock.

 

[HandgunHTR]

Anyone have issues with your trigger after installing a new bottom metal? Installed a High Desert and if I torque over 45lbs the trigger fires when I close the bolt? Very strange. Only thing I can think of is torquing too much is somehow stressing the action and trigger. I’ve run the OEM plastic for 250+ rounds and never had any problems with the trigger.

Yes I’ve had this a few times and it’s disconcerting. Have been meaning to ask the hive mind about it. Assumed it was an inletting issue that improves with wear over time, as I’ve always been able to re-tighten after it’s been used a bit. But curious to hear other thoughts.

-J

This seems pretty material. I have on my list new High Desert BM for my Tikka and am very interested.

I had this happen with OMR bottom metal just recently.

What I found was that due to some tolerance stacking (inlet a couple thousandths deeper than factory combined with bottom metal a couple thousandths thinner than factory, and finally a trigger relief cut that is a couple thousandths shorter than factory) was allowing the front of the trigger relief area on the bottom metal to contact the very top of the trigger curve. Essentially holding the trigger in the “fire” position.
I fixed it by taking a jewelers file to the front of the trigger relief cut and beveling that edge.

 

[leclairk]

I had this happen with OMR bottom metal just recently.

What I found was that due to some tolerance stacking (inlet a couple thousandths deeper than factory combined with bottom metal a couple thousandths thinner than factory, and finally a trigger relief cut that is a couple thousandths shorter than factory) was allowing the front of the trigger relief area on the bottom metal to contact the very top of the trigger curve. Essentially holding the trigger in the “fire” position.
I fixed it by taking a jewelers file to the front of the trigger relief cut and beveling that edge.

Awesome. Thank you. I will check that. Part of me is wondering why I’m trying so hard to make this work. Doesn’t sound like the gun is any more accurate but I like the idea of being able to torque down to 55/60lbs and helping ensure nothing moves. Plus I hate plastic parts.

 

[NSI]

That's so funny, convergent engineering. Me throwing shims under the bottom metal and you filing the front of the trigger relief both fixed the problem, but my rationale was completely wrong (sure it fixed the tolerance stacking on the shy inlet, but not because the screw was hitting the cocking piece). Thanks for the clarification.

-J

 

[Harvey_NW]

I had this happen with OMR bottom metal just recently.

What I found was that due to some tolerance stacking (inlet a couple thousandths deeper than factory combined with bottom metal a couple thousandths thinner than factory, and finally a trigger relief cut that is a couple thousandths shorter than factory) was allowing the front of the trigger relief area on the bottom metal to contact the very top of the trigger curve. Essentially holding the trigger in the “fire” position.
I fixed it by taking a jewelers file to the front of the trigger relief cut and beveling that edge.

I had the same issue happen after the gunsmith skim bedded my stock, a little bit of the bedding had rolled over the edge and needed relieved.

 

[Macintosh]

That's so funny, convergent engineering. Me throwing shims under the bottom metal and you filing the front of the trigger relief both fixed the problem, but my rationale was completely wrong (sure it fixed the tolerance stacking on the shy inlet, but not because the screw was hitting the cocking piece). Thanks for the clarification.

-J

To be fair, there ARE two different problems in this area (maybe more) caused by too little space between the bottom metal and action especially around the rear action screw. The correct fix could be either or both of your solutions, depending. The action screw really should not protrude above flush on the bolt raceway regardless, or it may cause problems. The action inlet can also cause problems with the safety lever movement due to this problem and may also need to be relieved in some cases.

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

I had this happen with OMR bottom metal just recently.

What I found was that due to some tolerance stacking (inlet a couple thousandths deeper than factory combined with bottom metal a couple thousandths thinner than factory, and finally a trigger relief cut that is a couple thousandths shorter than factory) was allowing the front of the trigger relief area on the bottom metal to contact the very top of the trigger curve. Essentially holding the trigger in the “fire” position.
I fixed it by taking a jewelers file to the front of the trigger relief cut and beveling that edge.

Well I got my barreled action mounted into the Stockys this afternoon. Looks good and fitment is good but I am having this issue as well.

Every single time I cycle the action, the trigger goes off. Never once had this issue with any of the factory Tikka stocks or the McMillan. I am using the high desert bottom metal. I think I’ll pull it apart and take a dremel to that area and see how it goes.

 

[Macintosh]

The issue above is because there isn’t enough space in between the action and bottom metal. If you take a Dremel to it you’re going to further reduce that—or a relief cut for thigger might work, but may not be necessary. Maybe I’m misunderstanding which post you’re referring to, but are you certain that you need to remove material and not add it back in? A thin washer under the bottom metal might solve it without altering the stock.

 

[fwafwow]

Have any of those with this problem contacted High Desert or OMR? If I had followed through and got the High Desert and had this problem, I'd be a bit freaked, and very reluctant to have to fix it myself.

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

Have any of those with this problem contacted High Desert or OMR? If I had followed through and got the High Desert and had this problem, I'd be a bit freaked, and very reluctant to have to fix it myself.

He sells shims with the bottom metal for this purpose. Those are long gone so I may reach out and grab some shims from him. Never needed them before this stock.

Stock feel is excellent. Painted version has plenty of grip. Looking forward to using it.

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

The issue above is because there isn’t enough space in between the action and bottom metal. If you take a Dremel to it you’re going to further reduce that—or a relief cut for thigger might work, but may not be necessary. Maybe I’m misunderstanding which post you’re referring to, but are you certain that you need to remove material and not add it back in? A thin washer under the bottom metal might solve it without altering the stock.

Originally was thinking trigger relief cut but now I’m leaning towards using the high desert shims that come with the bottom metal. We’ll see how it goes when I’m back from hunting desert mulie buck.

 

[Macintosh]

I just bought a high desert bottom metal, I had always used the OEM bottom metal, but bought a new/used stock and figured I would get a metal one. I also needed to use one of the shims because the rear action screw pillar was a touch short for the HD bottom metal and was affecting the bolt and the safety. I called Allterra the stock manufacturer, and they confirmed that they actually bed and cut the stocks differently for the various bottom metals. A shim under the rear action screw solved both—I’ll bed it right in place.

 

[amassi]

Have any of those with this problem contacted High Desert or OMR? If I had followed through and got the High Desert and had this problem, I'd be a bit freaked, and very reluctant to have to fix it myself.

It isn’t the bottom metal
It’s the inlet in the stock


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[swavescatter]

I used both shims front/back with my high desert bottom metal and VG stock. I've been cycling the safety on and off a lot and no issues, but that is a scary thought.

 

[amassi]

I used both shims front/back with my high desert bottom metal and VG stock. I've been cycling the safety on and off a lot and no issues, but that is a scary thought.

You wouldn’t be able to use the safety
With both failures- inlet depth and trigger channel
The bolt will not close cocked so the safety won’t operate
If your safety works you have no issue


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[leclairk]

Have any of those with this problem contacted High Desert or OMR? If I had followed through and got the High Desert and had this problem, I'd be a bit freaked, and very reluctant to have to fix it myself.

I did contact High Desert. He had no idea what I was talking about and insisted there was something seriously wrong with my gun. He suggested I immediately take my gun to a gunsmith and get it checked out. He said there is no way new bottom metal could cause this even after I explain how flawlessly the rifle ran before. Thank god for these forums so people can get the real answers.

 

[fwafwow]

I did contact High Desert. He had no idea what I was talking about and insisted there was something seriously wrong with my gun. He suggested I immediately take my gun to a gunsmith and get it checked out. He said there is no way new bottom metal could cause this even after I explain how flawlessly the rifle ran before. Thank god for these forums so people can get the real answers.

Now I have multiple reasons to question my choice of High Desert - including that they don’t read RS!

 

[NSI]

Now I have multiple reasons to question my choice of High Desert - including that they don’t read RS!

Calmate Fwaf. We'll get you sorted out. It's very easy to drop test your setup once it's altogether to get the confidence you desire. Just stay the course.

-J