Steel Targets

huntsd

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Putting together a shooting gong for long range practice. What thickness steel do you guys use for yours? Needs to be able to handle 30 cal.

Thanks
 

JF_Idaho

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1/2" for anything relatively close. Magnums will still leave small divots inside 200 yds.

For long range as you stated, 600+ 3/8 should be good and be a little lighter and provide better feedback.

1/4 would be fine for most standard calibers out 1000+. Stick with 3/8 if you're shooting big fast calibers.
 

NSI

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Shoot2HuntU
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Yes you want a good quality or hardened steel for this application.
MXG, I don't have access to a torch. You have any interest in cutting some extra targets on your next order? Also, what's the packable stand setup you use?
Thanks in advance,
-J
 

mxgsfmdpx

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MXG, I don't have access to a torch. You have any interest in cutting some extra targets on your next order? Also, what's the packable stand setup you use?
Thanks in advance,
-J

I make my own 3 piece stand. Basically weld flat stock into two “V’s” and then cut a chunk as a cross bar. You can either have it a fixed unit by welding the cross bar, or have to be collapsable in 3 pieces. Straps to the back of my pack and gongs go down in the pack.

I can cut some extras on my next order for you. PM me what you want for shape, sizes, mounting point, and paint color.
 
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BuckRut

Lil-Rokslider
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Mar 11, 2020
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More important than thickness is that the target hang and swing freely. If you can get the plate slanted so it isn't square to the impact helps as well. 3/8" AR is pretty much the industry standard.
 

khuber84

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MXG, I don't have access to a torch. You have any interest in cutting some extra targets on your next order? Also, what's the packable stand setup you use?
Thanks in advance,
-J
Torch is nogo for hardened steel, weakens the temper. Plasma even so to extent. Water jet is the way.
 
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3/8 ar500 from steelops. Been shooting it for 7yrs with 270, 308, 6.5 creed, 6 creed, 223, 7 Weatherby mag.

Still smooth and not pitted
 
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mxgsfmdpx

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@NSI I got your packable stand ready and 12” and 8” gongs cut in the CNC. These are 3/8” thick hardened bridge deck spec waste material. I doubt you’ll pit them, mine never do.

The stand breaks down into 4 legs and one cross member. The legs are 1/8” aluminum and the cross member is 1/4” aluminum to keep weight down.

They can all strap together nicely to your pack. Gongs and hardware go down in your pack.

IMG_8546.jpeg
 

pods8 (Rugged Stitching)

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@NSI I got your packable stand ready and 12” and 8” gongs cut in the CNC. These are 3/8” thick hardened bridge deck spec waste material. I doubt you’ll pit them, mine never do.

The stand breaks down into 4 legs and one cross member. The legs are 1/8” aluminum and the cross member is 1/4” aluminum to keep weight down.

They can all strap together nicely to your pack. Gongs and hardware go down in your pack.

View attachment 754022
How does the thicker aluminum hold up? I have a thinner aluminum saw horse and bullet splashes take a toll.
 

khuber84

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Good design, the weight reduction is awesome. I'll be interested to see how the aluminum frames holds up to spall. From a guy who's shot a lot of steel, and helped out at a handful of matches, I've seen my fair share of target failures. The thin low grade turnbuckes are gonna get tore up fast. Appears you'll need something more substantial connecting the turnbuckes to the plates themselves.

The most durable lighter weight connection I've found is rubber strapping. It's got woven fibers in it, connect with 1/2" grade 8 bolts with large washers, washers and nylok nuts on the back, put strap on back side of plate. I have a dual rack with a 4" and 6" plates I shoot positional practice with my prs rigs 6mm/25/6.5s heavy for cal, 2700-2900mv. That target has taken prob 3k plus rounds of fire, and one the straps finally failed 3 weeks ago, and it failed cuz the bolt came lose. I simply cut 2" off the strap, drilled a new hole, in strap, and tightened it all back up, and banged on.
 

pods8 (Rugged Stitching)

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Good design, the weight reduction is awesome. I'll be interested to see how the aluminum frames holds up to spall.

I shared this photo in PM and thought these thin tubes on the light sawhorse I was using were aluminum but they’re actually thin steel. The bullet splashes definitely erode stuff if not robust enough.
 

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TaperPin

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does it have to be "AR500" quality?
Mild steel is better than nothing, but it gets really chewed up, especially at 100 yards. I’m cheap and have always used mild steel because it’s essentially free, but free isn’t really free - just transporting it becomes less fun the more it’s chewed up and a hard 3/8” dances more than a heavier 1/2” or 5/8”.
 
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