Steel Targets

mxgsfmdpx

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Good design, the weight reduction is awesome. I'll be interested to see how the aluminum frames holds up to spall. From a guy who's shot a lot of steel, and helped out at a handful of matches, I've seen my fair share of target failures. The thin low grade turnbuckes are gonna get tore up fast. Appears you'll need something more substantial connecting the turnbuckes to the plates themselves.

The most durable lighter weight connection I've found is rubber strapping. It's got woven fibers in it, connect with 1/2" grade 8 bolts with large washers, washers and nylok nuts on the back, put strap on back side of plate. I have a dual rack with a 4" and 6" plates I shoot positional practice with my prs rigs 6mm/25/6.5s heavy for cal, 2700-2900mv. That target has taken prob 3k plus rounds of fire, and one the straps finally failed 3 weeks ago, and it failed cuz the bolt came lose. I simply cut 2" off the strap, drilled a new hole, in strap, and tightened it all back up, and banged on.
I agree and the rubber works nicely. This one is just meant for backpacking in and shooting in mountainous terrain for training. This isn't a dedicated "range" setup at all. I think for the application it should work great. I made myself a full second unit at well, to replace my heavy steel unit that sucks to climb up mountains with.
 

pods8 (Rugged Stitching)

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I agree and the rubber works nicely. This one is just meant for backpacking in and shooting in mountainous terrain for training. This isn't a dedicated "range" setup at all. I think for the application it should work great. I made myself a full second unit at well, to replace my heavy steel unit that sucks to climb up mountains with.
Keep in mind depending on the geometry you might want to put some stake loops or such on the legs and drive some tent stakes in. I've had issues with light frames getting knocked over.
 

mxgsfmdpx

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Keep in mind depending on the geometry you might want to put some stake loops or such on the legs and drive some tent stakes in. I've had issues with light frames getting knocked over.
Yep my plan was to see how rocks/cactus/trees did for helping to support it, other wise I will grind the feet to points and jam them into the ground.
 

pods8 (Rugged Stitching)

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NSI

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Shoot2HuntU
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@NSI I got your packable stand ready and 12” and 8” gongs cut in the CNC. These are 3/8” thick hardened bridge deck spec waste material. I doubt you’ll pit them, mine never do.

The stand breaks down into 4 legs and one cross member. The legs are 1/8” aluminum and the cross member is 1/4” aluminum to keep weight down.

They can all strap together nicely to your pack. Gongs and hardware go down in your pack.

View attachment 754022
You just made my week. Can’t wait to practice with these. Thank you!!

-J
 

mxgsfmdpx

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Oct 22, 2019
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You just made my week. Can’t wait to practice with these. Thank you!!

-J
Heck yeah! You may need to heed @pods8 (Rugged Stitching) advice and grab some stakes and a small hammer to keep it stable. You can also bypass the turnbuckles and just use wire to hang the targets, or switch to something else, lots of options there. If the aluminum doesn't work I can always make you a new one out of steel and I'll take that one back. I'll PM you.

I have an extra 4" target with ears cut as well I'll throw in with it all. There is room for it in between the 12" and 8". Makes for a fun challenge at further yardages.

Most guys who come out and say they have a ".5 MOA all day gun" are humbled like you wouldn't believe on a 4" gong at 400 yards (double the size of their supposed "all day" accuracy, they should be hitting a 2" gong at 400 yards for .5 MOA all day).
 

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