Speed check on 30’ Ventum: this normal or something off?

[schiffer99]

Getting ready for my first archery elk hunt (early Arizona unit 8), so been working my bow hard the last couple months. Decided after a couple years of ownership to weigh everything and chronograph… the results weren’t what I was hoping.

Setup is a Hoyt Ventum pro 30. I have the limbs turned all the way in so presumably I am pulling 70lbs. Arrow weight with a 100 grain tip is 385 (ish) grains.

Three shots on the chrony all read 285 ft/sec.

I was surprised as I thought for sure I would be over 300 ft/sec. I am still over the recommended energy for elk per the internets, but it is borderline. Plus I recently pushed my five pin sight from 20-60 to 30-70 yards, so the more speed the more better.

So, is this actually about right? Or is this speed with what I thought was a relatively light arrow a sign something is off?

Any thoughts are appreciated. Next step is to go to my bow shop where I got it, but figured check here first in case this is completely normal and I don’t waste their time and make myself look dumb.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

What's your draw length?

 

[schiffer99]

What's your draw length?

I believe 27.5 (possibly 28)… going off memory when they set me up at the shop and a quick measurement I just did myself.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

I believe 27.5 (possibly 28)… going off memory when they set me up at the shop and a quick measurement I just did myself.

I should have phrased my question differently...what draw length is your bow set to? There should be letters inscribed on the modules, which correlate to draw length per the chart below.

 

[MattB]

Figure out your draw length and actual
poundage. That does seem slow, and that’s a pretty light arrow for elk IMO. Ignore people who recommend KE minimums, that is Fuddish.

 

[Maxhunter]

I’m a 27” draw and shoot a 410 grain arrow at 65lbs from an RX8. My speed is 269fps with my RX8. Your speed sounds about right imo. Remember speed doesn’t kill the animal accuracy and arrow placement is key imo.

 

[schiffer99]

I should have phrased my question differently...what draw length is your bow set to? There should be letters inscribed on the modules, which correlate to draw length per the chart below.
View attachment 728729

Module position is G. So looks like a 27’ draw length. And I feel awful silly that I didn’t know about this setting until I was today years old

 

[fatlander]

That’s about right. I don’t think any manufacturer has made a bow that hit its ibo speed since the early 2010s.

296 is what I got in my calculator figuring 12 grains on the string, 385 grain arrow, 70#, 27”, and 342 ibo.

10 fps slow is about spot on for any bow made post 2017.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Module position is G. So looks like a 27’ draw length. And I feel awful silly that I didn’t know about this setting until I was today years old

Your observed speed is pretty close to what I would expect. Plugging 27" DL, 70# DW, 342 fps IBO, 385 gr arrow weight into my speed calculator predicts 283 fps assuming 15 fps loss per inch of draw length reduction. 10 fps per inch is the commonly used rule of thumb to adjust for DL, but Hoyts seem to lose speed at a greater rate than most other bows as you reduce DL. You still have plenty of energy to work with, but since you're concerned about it, you might have your shop verify DW on a scale. Maxed out limb bolts don't guarantee that you're reaching advertised peak DW. If it measures low, add twists to the cables to shorten them slightly, which will increase DW.

 

[schiffer99]

Thank you all, especially Mighty Mouse who taught me me something about my bow I should have known.

I also learned I may have unnecessarily added a stabilizer extending out from the grip as apparently the little stubby thing on the low part of the bow is a factory provided stabilizer.

 

[Zac]

A better question is what broadhead are you planning on using?

 

[schiffer99]

A better question is what broadhead are you planning on using?

Tooth of the arrow 4-blade vented XL, 100 grains.

 

[Zac]

Tooth of the arrow 4-blade vented XL, 100 grains.

That will most likely work. However I would use a cut on contact 2 blade with your specs. If your spine will handle it then I would also go to a 125 to at least get you to 400ish grains.

 

[schiffer99]

One more little (maybe not so little) proviso… I have had this bow about three years and have shot it quite a bit for a couple hunt work ups.

It has the original factory strings. There is some fraying on the main string above and below the peep but I didn’t think too much of it and added some wax.

Maybe it’s time to restring?

 

[Zac]

One more little (maybe not so little) proviso… I have had this bow about three years and have shot it quite a bit for a couple hunt work ups.

It has the original factory strings. There is some fraying on the main string above and below the peep but I didn’t think too much of it and added some wax.

Maybe it’s time to restring?

sure

 

[Ride123]

3 years is prob time....especially if your seeing seperation

 

[Dylan Sluis]

IMO that is a very light arrow for elk. If you have a stiff enough arrow I would at least throw an extra 25 grains in your head weight to at least get you over 400 grains. Speed doesn't kill any animal. Neither does a stupid heavy arrow. You have to find a good range to be in. But to me you are to far on the light side. Also like stated above with your specs I would go to a 2 blade with bleeders instead of a 4 blade cause of how short your draw length is. In reality anything can kill an animal, I just think you are definitely pushing it a little close. And yes after 3 years you should get new strings

 

[schiffer99]

I did get some new strings and have worked the last couple weekends getting sighted back in and doing the local 3d walking course. Haven’t chronographed yet, but I swear the pull seemed a little heavier—though that could just be in my mind.

I will heed the advice and pick up some two blade heads. I have retune for broadheads with the new strings anyways, so good opportunity to try something else.

Would a 1.5 sevr mechanical also be a good option?

 

[Dylan Sluis]

I did get some new strings and have worked the last couple weekends getting sighted back in and doing the local 3d walking course. Haven’t chronographed yet, but I swear the pull seemed a little heavier—though that could just be in my mind.

I will the advice and pick up some two blade heads. I have retune for broadheads with the new strings anyways, so good opportunity to try something new.

Would a 1.5 sevr mechanical also be a good option?

For elk at your draw length and arrow weight I would say absolutely not. Mechanicals take so much energy to deploy, sevr being one of the most. Theres a video from a few years back of a guy pushing broadheads through a hide on top a scale. And if I remember right sevr was one of the highest. If I were you I would go to a 2 blade with bleeders, or a 3 blade and only fixed for you.

 

[Fisherhahn]

I’d opt for a broadhead like a slick trick viper trick 125. Or some other 2 blade with bleeder setup.