So, how light can a Kimber Hunter be? A build thread.

[jpndave]

So I noticed yesterday in my safe, and then just checked my pic on page 23 with the buck, my rifle took it upon itself to get even lighter as my grip cap is missing lol. Probably won't bother replacing it.

I have a 3d scan of the Hunter grip cap. It's not perfect but might be printable. @mtwarden did you ever try printing that?

 

[mtwarden]

I didn't - @Trackselk came to the rescue

 

[Trackselk]

yeah I lost mine too, went w/o a year w/o out one

@Trackselk gave me his- now I have one

You saved my back, I'll let you pack that beast!

 

[thinhorn_AK]

What velocities are you guys getting after cutting your barrels? Specifically guys shooting 308.

How short are you cutting the barrels, what velocities are you getting and what bullet weights are you using?

 

[mtwarden]

iirc - 2550 fps with factory loaded 165 gr Accubonds- 19” barrel

 

[mtwarden]

I have titanium action screws in the works if anyone is interested. They won't be the goofy long extended head though so on the Hunter they would be up inside the stock a bit on the rear screw. Also a T25 Torx head.

bumping this up; any luck with those action screws?

 

[Trackselk]

Yeah, ti screws please!

On another subject. I was hoping to get some opinions on chopping my 18" 22 creed barrel to 16.5". I'm probably going to send it off to LRI for a few ounces more shaved off the barrel, and I could probably deal with the 1" of additional drop at 500 yards. I run suppressed, so noise isn't a consideration, but getting that weight at the end of the barrel closer to center would be nice. It shoots well, but would carry better, and hang up on fewer branches...
Why? Because 4lb 11oz is too heavy!

 

[RepeatPete]

For those who have the SWFA ultralight on their Kimber - how do you like it? I think @ChrisAU and @packgoatguy had them at some point.

Also, thanks to all for the wealth of information in this thread. I’ll tag it here to not clog up the thread, but I’m almost done with a carbon fiber stock for my hunter. I haven’t done everything possible to save weight, just been careful not to add excess. It has a more vertical grip, negative comb, parallel forend, and a shorter trigger reach. Prior to paint I was at 13.5 oz. and will finish at a LOP of 14.25” with the 1” microcell pad. The forend was shortened a bit and is incredibly rigid - when I hold the barrel and push on the forend it doesn’t flex at all.

Lightweight Kimber Build with Custom Carbon Fiber Stock

Time for round 2. Last year I decided to build my own stock and really enjoyed the process. I’m happy with the outcome for a first build, but wanted to try again to tweak some things and build for a different application. The first stock is documented here...

rokslide.com

 

[ChrisAU]

For those who have the SWFA ultralight on their Kimber - how do you like it? I think @ChrisAU and @packgoatguy had them at some point.

Also, thanks to all for the wealth of information in this thread. I’ll tag it here to not clog up the thread, but I’m almost done with a carbon fiber stock for my hunter. I haven’t done everything possible to save weight, just been careful not to add excess. It has a more vertical grip, negative comb, parallel forend, and a shorter trigger reach. Prior to paint I was at 13.5 oz. and will finish at a LOP of 14.25” with the 1” microcell pad. The forend was shortened a bit and is incredibly rigid - when I hold the barrel and push on the forend it doesn’t flex at all.

View attachment 732450

Lightweight Kimber Build with Custom Carbon Fiber Stock

Time for round 2. Last year I decided to build my own stock and really enjoyed the process. I’m happy with the outcome for a first build, but wanted to try again to tweak some things and build for a different application. The first stock is documented here...

rokslide.com

I had one mounted up at one time but never shot it, didn't like the eye relief with 4 pound 358 Win ha.

 

[RepeatPete]

I had one mounted up at one time but never shot it, didn't like the eye relief with 4 pound 358 Win ha.

Definitely understandable - thanks!

 

[packgoatguy]

For those who have the SWFA ultralight on their Kimber - how do you like it? I think @ChrisAU and @packgoatguy had them at some point.

Also, thanks to all for the wealth of information in this thread. I’ll tag it here to not clog up the thread, but I’m almost done with a carbon fiber stock for my hunter. I haven’t done everything possible to save weight, just been careful not to add excess. It has a more vertical grip, negative comb, parallel forend, and a shorter trigger reach. Prior to paint I was at 13.5 oz. and will finish at a LOP of 14.25” with the 1” microcell pad. The forend was shortened a bit and is incredibly rigid - when I hold the barrel and push on the forend it doesn’t flex at all.

View attachment 732450

Lightweight Kimber Build with Custom Carbon Fiber Stock

Time for round 2. Last year I decided to build my own stock and really enjoyed the process. I’m happy with the outcome for a first build, but wanted to try again to tweak some things and build for a different application. The first stock is documented here...

rokslide.com

I've used my swfa ultralight scopes a fair bit. One on a 308win kimber hunter and one on my uberlite 223rem bolt AR. I like the view through the scope, and they have been reliable so far. I use the BDC reticle and the zoom to "sort of" dial for holdovers... but I miss having a real dialing scope. Overall, if a sub-10oz scope is needed... I think the swfa ultralight bdc is hard to beat.

 

[ChrisAU]

Back to her fighting weight

 

[Antares]

Back to her fighting weight

View attachment 747265

That’s crazy how light you’ve gotten that! This has been a fun thread to follow.

Just shave a few more ounces off my .308 Montana by switching to the SWFA ultralight scope.

5 lbs 6 oz

 

[mtwarden]

Sooo..... on the subject of the action screws.

The rear screw has that long-ish shouldered section, but ultimately it has the same length of threads (.375") as the front. Both are 1/4" x 28; the front screw is 1" overall (1.02"). So could one not use the front screw in the rear, as long as you had a tool/bit that it could be reached into the small recess?

Also is there any reason that a fully threaded screw would not also work?

If that's the case, would these work?

https://www.ti64.com/product-p/5135.htm

 

[HighUintas]

This is a really fun thread. If I wasn't so brainwashed by rokslide into only using tikkas I'd have to dive into one of these!

I'm curious,... Does anyone know of this being done with a Tikka? I wonder how light I could make one of mine. I think my factory stock is dying to be turned into swiss cheese haha

 

[jpndave]

Sooo..... on the subject of the action screws.

The rear screw has that long-ish shouldered section, but ultimately it has the same length of threads (.375") as the front. Both are 1/4" x 28; the front screw is 1" overall (1.02"). So could one not use the front screw in the rear, as long as you had a tool/bit that it could be reached into the small recess?

Also is there any reason that a fully threaded screw would not also work?

If that's the case, would these work?

https://www.ti64.com/product-p/5135.htm

Yes, but with a qualifier. That is where I was planning to get the "cores" to make the screws from. I have a copy of their print (Post #493 this thread) and the heads are too big (which is good because material can be removed) and flat not oval head. The flat isn't a problem if you don't mind the look and contour/hole there when holding the stock, which actually wouldn't matter on the hunter stock as there is just a hole there anyway. Length will likely need to be trimmed as well, especially critical in the front screw which can protrude into the bolt lugs. The diameter of the head is a bit larger than the originals according to their print. I guess you could drill out the plastic to fit on the hunter stock if necessary. Mine personal rifle is wood with steel bottom metal so that is a hard pass for me. The Montana and Ascent fiberglass stocks would have the same issue with metal inserts. I haven't measured the holes in the hunter stock to see if it would be clear without modifications. If all you are doing is shortening the screws, should be doable with a file (or 10 as it's titanium which is not fun to machine) or a sander/grinder. Give it a try! Remember flat heads are measured to the top of the head not bottom. The larger head will have more height in the head leaving less under head/thread length. So, err on the long side and shorten to fit. With those dimensions, I would get 1-1/4" screws an shorten to fit to have full engagement.

I still plan on doing these but my summer has been out of control busy. Things are settling down and I am trying to catch up on everything that was dropped.