Simple cooler upgrades

[SMforester]

I’ve got a stash of firehose if anyone is in the market for hinge material. I would be happy to put together a little kit.

 

[Customweld]

Not to hijack the thread, but these guys have some funny cooler pics.

SHITI Coolers

SHITI Coolers: The Ultimate Party Cooler Company. Engineered to Party & Designed to Make Drinkin' Easy!

wildlyweakcoolers.com

 

[ericbeb]

What if your existing hinge screw holes are stripped out what have you found to fix this other than move the hinge location?

 

[5 shot group]

What if your existing hinge screw holes are stripped out what have you found to fix this other than move the hinge location?

I used 5 minute 2 part epoxy from loc-tite. Wait until it starts to thicken up then apply to the screws and insert. Let set 24 hours.

Worked for me

 

[JeffP_Or]

I just came across this post - also just happened to finish up some mods on my own cooler this weekend. Right along the same lines as the OP:

I found actual rubber T-handle latches on-line [all manner of sizes, get the shorter; measure your cooler]:

Ran the weatherstripping along the lid/edge [got the smaller dimension than pictured]:

Also used Jack Nuts and 6x32x1" stainless steel machine screw for the latches; I think these might work well for replacing screws in hinges as well [@ericbeb]:

The jack nut expands as it collapses while tightening the screws - acts like a molly, nutsert or expansion rivet [I could not find the right length expansion rivet though and these appear ideal]. It seems to hold well - time will tell I suppose, but it allows the lid to be held tight with the t-handles. I started with the Igloo Marine series coolers so a slight step up from bottom tier.

 

[Mattys010]

I like the pvc, I will have to do that.

 

[ericbeb]

I just came across this post - also just happened to finish up some mods on my own cooler this weekend. Right along the same lines as the OP:

I found actual rubber T-handle latches on-line [all manner of sizes, get the shorter; measure your cooler]:
View attachment 235269
Ran the weatherstripping along the lid/edge [got the smaller dimension than pictured]:
View attachment 235273
Also used Jack Nuts and 6x32x1" stainless steel machine screw for the latches; I think these might work well for replacing screws in hinges as well [@ericbeb]:
View attachment 235277
The jack nut expands as it collapses while tightening the screws - acts like a molly, nutsert or expansion rivet [I could not find the right length expansion rivet though and these appear ideal]. It seems to hold well - time will tell I suppose, but it allows the lid to be held tight with the t-handles. I started with the Igloo Marine series coolers so a slight step up from bottom tier.

that's a good idea on the jack nuts.

 

[Beendare]

Some clever ideas here, thanks to all,

 

[Razz]

Instead of putting the reflectix material on the inside, make a cover for the outside of the cooler with it. I made mine to fit over the top and sides like a cap. Worked great, especially when we lived in NM and if there was any chance of the sun hitting your cooler as the day progressed. I have even seen ones made to hinge open on top for access. They used duct tape along the hinge edge and a little tab of velcro to hold it closed.

 

[danarnold]

Instead of putting the reflectix material on the inside, make a cover for the outside of the cooler with it. I made mine to fit over the top and sides like a cap. Worked great, especially when we lived in NM and if there was any chance of the sun hitting your cooler as the day progressed. I have even seen ones made to hinge open on top for access. They used duct tape along the hinge edge and a little tab of velcro to hold it closed.

friend of mine been doing that for years, works great and less things to keep clean in the cooler.
great thread, thanks

 

[JustJustin]

If your buying ice anyways, the 10lb "blocks" are a lot more compact than the bags.

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[Mosby]

Wrapping duct tape around the cooler lid really helps to retain inside temps and keep meat and ice frozen. I buy extra wide duct tape and keep a roll of it with my coolers. After the meat and ice goes into the cooler the duct tape goes around the lid.

I also keep an old wool blanket to go on top of the coolers. Easy way to increase insulation. That also stays with the coolers.

I paint my cooler drain plugs a bright florescent color so I don't loose them or leave them behind. Loosing those plugs sucks.

Other than that, I just lay a cut piece of reflectix on the bottom of my coolers. I like to be able to pull it out so I can clean the cooler or pitch it if it gets nasty.

 

[5 shot group]

Wrapping duct tape around the cooler lid really helps to retain inside temps and keep meat and ice frozen. I buy extra wide duct tape and keep a roll of it with my coolers. After the meat and ice goes into the cooler the duct tape goes around the lid.

I also keep an old wool blanket to go on top of the coolers. Easy way to increase insulation. That also stays with the coolers.

I paint my cooler drain plugs a bright florescent color so I don't loose them or leave them behind. Loosing those plugs sucks.

Other than that, I just lay a cut piece of reflectix on the bottom of my coolers. I like to be able to pull it out so I can clean the cooler or pitch it if it gets nasty.

I like the painting the plug idea. My little plastic tether is broke and I figure I am going to lose it one day. Figure if I do, I will switch to a drain plug for a boat

 

[DannyBump]

I have also filled cheap cooler lids with foam, use the non expanding drill an entrance hole, air hole on the other side up high. Fill it up. Helps a lot as well. That’s the biggest downside to cheap coolers, most don’t fill the lid.


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This is a hot tip, I bet a ton of cold gets lost that way through the hollow lid

 

[NW307]

I did the same thing to a giant coleman cooler I use for rafting. I did a desert river float for a week and we were forced to eat all the perishables early since it didn't hold ice long at all sitting in the sun with a sleeping pad covering it. I did the same float a year later with all the mods you showed minus the pvc tray, and and the gallon water jugs were still half frozen at the end of the trip in very similar conditions. The airtightish seal and reflectix really helps. I put a 12' NRS strap around the perimeter of the cooler body with loops knotted at each end of the cooler for handles and securing it to my boat and that seems to work great. I used gorilla tape to hold the reflectix on and it hasn't let loose.

 

[Speyforsteel]

Love the mods. I’ve had good luck on river trips with a wire grates on feet on top of dry ice. The grate are similar to your pvc grate to keep everything dry. Put anything you want to stay frozen at the bottom.
At the end of a week long river trip the food is still good and sometimes I still have ice for a cocktail.

 

[Curtis_C]

interesting idea, might try to pvc

 

[Aries_Ranger]

Until somebody buys me a nice roto molded cooler or I win won, I will be using the cheaper models. My complaint with them has always been that they never seem to hold ice as long as advertised. So, I decided to see what mods I could do to try and improve that.

View attachment 222677

I started with an igloo polar 120 quart. I then added some ¼ weather stripping and some latches to pull the lid down tight and form a seal.

View attachment 222678

Next up was the hinges. Some pieces of fire hose precut was sourced from amazon and came with stainless steel screws.

View attachment 222679

View attachment 222680

View attachment 222682

For the inside, I used reflectix. Think of this as a roll of bubble wrap with a reflective film on both sides. It insulates very well and it is what I use for my diy coozie for cooking my dehydrated meals. Foil tape was used to secure the reflectix to the lid as I originally had it just setting on top of the ice and it worked very well, but I prefer this method more. Duct tape can be used to join the pieces together, but I found it doesn't do so well after sittling in water for days at a time. The other pieces were made to pull out to keep cleaning easy. The bottom piece just lays flat on the bottom, unsecured. The insert is also tall enough that when the lid closes, it folds in and sits against the piece on the inside of the lid, helping to try and ensure as much of the inside is insulated as possible

The lid strap was also replaced with a piece of ⅛ inch stainless steel cable.

View attachment 222684

The latest piece i added was a pvc grate. I got tired of having meat and my meals ending up in a pool of water in the bottom. This was made with 1 inch pvc for a total of 2 inches of lift. It was cut to give a ½ inch clearance on all sides when installed. The grate keeps everything well above the drain plug and means there is no need to have the cooler tipped to one side to ensure it drains enough to keep things out of the water. Again, being removable makes cleaning easy.

Overall, I figure it keeps my ice another 2-3 days from what it originally did. I have since purchased another cooler and have done all of the same mods except for the reflectix, as my local Ace hardware was out.

I plan on doing a test on the ice longevity between the 2 to see just how much the reflectix actually does and if it is worth it, as its the most expensive piece of this project.

Here is a price breakdown:

Igloo polar 120 qt cooler $57
Latches $5 for 2
Weather stripping $1 (dollar store find)
Hinges $13
⅛ steel cable $1 for 2 feet
⅛ cable ferrule $3 pack of 4 (2 needed)
Reflectix $24 for 8 feet of 24" tall (cut from a bulk roll)
Foil tape $6
Total: $110

So for around a $100, I have a cooler that does pretty well for me.

I wonder if cutting down Milk Crates or a Bread Tray (think Costco or Sam's - Holds multiple loafs on the rack) would be a good option for the grate on PVC Risers.

 

[5 shot group]

I wonder if cutting down Milk Crates or a Bread Tray (think Costco or Sam's - Holds multiple loafs on the rack) would be a good option for the grate on PVC Risers.

I think that would help, but my main concern was the water level rising to where the meat or other items would get submerged without me catching it in time (away for a few days for example). With the pvc, the water would need to get to 2 inches before that would happen.

But maybe do some 1½" pvc on the bottom with pieces of a milk crate on top? That might work really good.

 

[DawnPatrol]

Love all of this.

If you happen to have a water source nearby, soaking a blanket etc. periodically and putting it over the cooler to get some evaporative cooling going on takes it to the next level. A burlap sack works great for this purpose.