Shot analysis request

[webhak]

I'm a traditional archer and upland bird hunter getting into the world of shooting things at 100 yards and beyond with a rifle...so apologies if I'm missing something obvious here.

Or, overthinking.

What's the recommended course of action/solution for when the round is within 1" MOA at 100 yards but at 200, is within 2" MOA but shoots about 1/4" mil below at 200 yards?

Yes, I understand that shooting 3, 5, or 10-round groups would give better data, but the results in the photos are consistent with my last range session where I did shoot 5-round groups. I just didn't save that target.

The target diameter is 2". The 200-yard points of impact are 1.5" below point of aim. About a 1/4 mil if my public school math is correct.

The answer could very well be: "Don't worry about."

Or, "Here's what you'd need to do to get that group in the dot at 200 yards."

NOTES:

• Tikka T3X, 7 RM
• Nightforce NX8 2.5-20 (set at 13 for 100 yards and 20 for 200 yards)
• Federal 168 Grain Berger Hybrid Hunter

P.S. Yes, I also understand this is still probably a dead deer. But the junior scientist in me would still like to put the rounds exactly where I want them to go.

 

[HandgunHTR]

Have you run these rounds through a chronograph so you know the exact muzzle velocity? If not then you are just guessing at how much to come up the first time and you need to do a true zero at 100 yards, then shoot at 200, 300, 400, and 500 to see where you are hitting so you know exactly how much to dial.

 

[webhak]

Have you run these rounds through a chronograph so you know the exact muzzle velocity? If not then you are just guessing at how much to come up the first time and you need to do a true zero at 100 yards, then shoot at 200, 300, 400, and 500 to see where you are hitting so you know exactly how much to dial.

Yes, they've been chrono'd while zeroing at 100 yards. That data was fed into two different ballistic calculators with each indicating +4 mil at 200 yards.

If I go +5 mil, I'll theoretically be shooting approx 7" higher than the POI seen on the 200-yard target.
If I go +3 mil, I'll theoretically be shooting approx 7" lower than the POI seen on the 200-yard target.

Obviously, neither adjustment gets me in the bullseye.

 

[PNWGATOR]

Start at the start and don’t chase your tail.

Disassemble, degrease, lock and torque your delivery system.

Shoot a 30 round group at 100 yds.

Zero your scope to the center of all rounds fired.

Confirm zero with another 10 round group.

Slip your turrets.

Trajectory validate.


Lots of valuable knowledge on the forum.

Here is a good thread to start with:

Thread 'How to use a mil/mil scope-reticle, turrets and proper usage'

Jul 1, 2023

I have gotten a bunch of requests to write up a "how to" for using mil reticle scoots. In this case the SWFA Milquad reticle. It is the 6x42mm SS with MQ reticle in the pictures, however the process and use is the same as long as you have a scope who's reticle matches the turret adjustments- mil/mil or MOA/MOA. Mil/mil has some advantages, but the system works regardless.



The set up-



Tikka T3 SL in 223
SWFA SS 6x42mm MQ
Pic base and rings
Blackhills 5.56mm 77gr SMKs


Also a Leupold Mark4 12-40x60mm spotter with H32 reticle. This is not...

• Formidilosus
• Replies: 77
• Forum: Optics

• 

 

[webhak]

Start at the start and don’t chase your tail.

Disassemble, degrease, lock and torque your delivery system.

Shoot a 30 round group at 100 yds.

Zero your scope to the center of all rounds fired.

Confirm zero with another 10 round group.

Slip your turrets.

Trajectory validate.


Lots of valuable knowledge on the forum.

Here is a good thread to start with:

Thread 'How to use a mil/mil scope-reticle, turrets and proper usage'

Jul 1, 2023

I have gotten a bunch of requests to write up a "how to" for using mil reticle scoots. In this case the SWFA Milquad reticle. It is the 6x42mm SS with MQ reticle in the pictures, however the process and use is the same as long as you have a scope who's reticle matches the turret adjustments- mil/mil or MOA/MOA. Mil/mil has some advantages, but the system works regardless.



The set up-



Tikka T3 SL in 223
SWFA SS 6x42mm MQ
Pic base and rings
Blackhills 5.56mm 77gr SMKs


Also a Leupold Mark4 12-40x60mm spotter with H32 reticle. This is not...

• Formidilosus
• Replies: 77
• Forum: Optics

• 

Thanks!

 

[Longrangr]

If your turrets are in units of MOA, each click (1/4 MOA) will bring your shots at 200 yards up 1/2 inch. So dial up 3 clicks = 1-1/2".

If your turrets are in units of MIL, each click is approximately 0.36" at 100 yards and 0.72" at 200 yards. So dial up 2 clicks = 1.44" (close enough.)

 

[webhak]

Duh me. I just realized my idiocy and was off a decimal point. I'd go back and correct my original post but will leave that ignorance on display.

I misread the 1 mil = 3.6" at 100 yards as 0.1 mil = 3.6" inches at 100 yards. Therefore, the ballistic calculator that was telling me to go up 0.4 mils...which I did dial correctly on the optic...was transmorgified to 4.0 mils in my brain while typing.

Bottom line: I do have plenty of room to dial in that zero better.

Thanks all.

Again, leaving this up for long-lasting humiliation.

 

[rookieforever33]

Dod you dial or aim higher for the 200 yard shot? It looks to me like you zeroed at 100 and aimed at the same spot at 200

 

[PNWGATOR]

You identified and caught a part of the issue. Well done!

There is a lot that goes into becoming a rifleman and you’re in the right place.