Short barreled suppressed long action - what caliber?!

Not to derail the thread but I have a 24” 300wm I’d really like to cut to 20” but my gunsmith thinks it’s a mistake. How much did you guys loose going to 20”?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Not to derail the thread but I have a 24” 300wm I’d really like to cut to 20” but my gunsmith thinks it’s a mistake. How much did you guys loose going to 20”?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Older article but has good info.
 
Not to derail the thread but I have a 24” 300wm I’d really like to cut to 20” but my gunsmith thinks it’s a mistake. How much did you guys loose going to 20”?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If you want it done, then do it. Tell your gunsmith if it doesn't work out then he will be rebarreling it anyway
 
I'd do .308 caliber . Pick the bullet you want to shoot, pick the speed you want to shoot it at and then the case that gives you enough horsepower to do that.
What bullet do you want to shoot?
 
Not saying this what you should do, but just for ideas.

This is a Kimber Hunter in .270 that I had the factory barrel cut and threaded at 18.5”. It was a gamble but I have tons of reloading components for .270 and I got lucky. I’m shooting a 150 Partition at 2900 fps with a mild charge of RL26. Group is 6 shots at 300 yards in a 5-8 mph full value wind.0AE978F6-1B62-4E01-AA9B-815620E34B83.jpeg91EDC896-E43D-4A88-8C90-52314D56A387.jpeg
 
Not to derail the thread but I have a 24” 300wm I’d really like to cut to 20” but my gunsmith thinks it’s a mistake. How much did you guys loose going to 20”?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
My buddys 20” WM shooting factory Nosler 190 accubond LR @ 2800 (loss of about 70fps)

You can gain back all the lost velocity plus some by hand loading
 
I’m with you on short barrels and suppressors. For something like this, I’d second the 7PRC. You’ll get the better BC and factory “match” hunting ammo with heavy for caliber bullets.

I have a short action and I’m going to do it 200gr in a 300wsm. If I did have a LA, then I’d go 7PRC.
 
I ended up going 280AI. Found Nosler 160gr accubonds which will do the trick...not to mention, I can also shoot 280rem if in a pinch!
 
This 18” 30-06 came out really well. I was messing around with it this weekend and tried out a few different loads. I was shooting 57.5 grains of reloader 17 behind a 180g partition and getting just under 2800fps.

Zero regrets here.
 

Attachments

  • 5C862548-83B6-43D7-BF84-6EC56F3B8F78.jpeg
    5C862548-83B6-43D7-BF84-6EC56F3B8F78.jpeg
    357.6 KB · Views: 58
Last edited:
Not saying this what you should do, but just for ideas.

This is a Kimber Hunter in .270 that I had the factory barrel cut and threaded at 18.5”. It was a gamble but I have tons of reloading components for .270 and I got lucky. I’m shooting a 150 Partition at 2900 fps with a mild charge of RL26. Group is 6 shots at 300 yards in a 5-8 mph full value wind.View attachment 471153View attachment 471154
Any issues getting that slim barrel threaded? Major POI shift? I've got one in 3006 that I need to get cut down and threaded before my can arrives.
 
Any issues getting that slim barrel threaded? Major POI shift? I've got one in 3006 that I need to get cut down and threaded before my can arrives.
Send that barrel out to Shaen, get it shouldered and flared out to 5/8x24. No more adapters or anything. Just put the silencer on and shoot it.
 
Of those cartridges 300 Win. I would go 300 PRC just for the better BC bullets. If you reloaded well I might still go 300 win as 212 ELDX out of that is a great round. Plus factory ammo everywhere.
 
700 yards with factory ammo from a short barrel is tough, especially in older cartridges that the manufacturers tend to load on the milder side.

Have you played with a ballistics calculator to see if anything available from the factory in those chamberings actually has enough velocity to upset well at 700, considering that you'll lose ~100 fps at the muzzle from the chop?

 
Back
Top