Short-barrel-magnum-chambered rifles?

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Oct 19, 2025
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I'm pretty new to long range shooting/hunting and I'm a little confused on the effects of short barrels on magnum calibers. For context I am considering building a tikka 7 PRC that I will run suppressed, looking at a 20 inch barrel.

Obviously chopping the barrel will reduce muzzle velocity. I'm not worried about this as I'd only take a shot at an animal out to 500 yards, absolute max. But how does chopping the barrel affect accuracy? I have seen some say that the incomplete powder burn causes muzzle velocity variation between shots and therefore a reduction in accuracy at longer ranges. Is this true? If so is can it be negated by hand loading? I would only be using factory ammo in the short term, but I'd like to start hand loading at some point.

Are there any other deleterious effects on accuracy or what have you by using a short barrel?
 
With the right modern powders, you should still get consistent burn from a 20” barrel.

PS - if you are setting your maximum range at 500 yards, the 7 PRC is “more gun than you need.” You can get effective terminal performance with much less powder burn and recoil.
 
Consistent as in it will burn all the powder.
Wow ok that's interesting. Makes me wonder why some people in the "is a X inch barrel too long for a suppressor" threads argue so adamantly for 24 or even 26 inch barrels... I'd much rather have a handy rifle than musket if accuracy is equal!
 
I think that would be a little too much recoil for me. Tikka seems like a good cost effective option but I am open to arguments otherwise.

There are no good arguments against a Tikka. Unless you prefer the Sauer 100. For bargain rifles, it’s hard to do better.

Inside of 500 yards, and at sea level, a 20” 6.5 PRC or .270 Winchester will keep a decent bullet above 1800 FPS. At higher elevations, you can use even smaller cartridges and remain effective.

This is my 21” .270 shooting factory Hornady Whitetail 130-grain bullets at sea level (starting at actual verified muzzle velocity, not on the box values).
ac22ff209fb58c7a3080d3ce9c3bbbae.png

That rifle puts 10 shots into a 3.5” group at 300 yards using factory ammo. I haven’t had the chance to test it at further ranges.
 
Wow ok that's interesting. Makes me wonder why some people in the "is a X inch barrel too long for a suppressor" threads argue so adamantly for 24 or even 26 inch barrels... I'd much rather have a handy rifle than musket if accuracy is equal!

Even if the shorter barrel burns all the powder, you still can get more muzzle velocity from longer barrels.

Edit - and my normal rule is that I don’t want my overall barrel + suppressor length to exceed 26”. I have one rifle, a .25-06, which breaks this rule by having a 24” barrel and a 4” suppressor (an OG 6.5).
 
I think that would be a little too much recoil for me. Tikka seems like a good cost effective option but I am open to arguments otherwise.
I'd bet felt recoil of an x-bolt 300wsm is no more than a Tikka 7prc. Tikkas kick hard for caliber. Tikkas all have long action receivers. Stocks feel awful and most remotely serious shooters replace them. Then there's only one correct location for a safety, top center of the tang.
 
I'd bet felt recoil of an x-bolt 300wsm is no more than a Tikka 7prc. Tikkas kick hard for caliber. Tikkas all have long action receivers. Stocks feel awful and most remotely serious shooters replace them. Then there's only one correct location for a safety, top center of the tang.
The stocks are subpar but because of that there's tons of aftermarket options. I'm planning to swap the stock. And 7 PRC is long action anyway. You got me on the safety though.
 
Even if the shorter barrel burns all the powder, you still can get more muzzle velocity from longer barrels.

Edit - and my normal rule is that I don’t want my overall barrel + suppressor length to exceed 26”. I have one rifle, a .25-06, which breaks this rule by having a 24” barrel and a 4” suppressor (an OG 6.5).
Right but if velocity is adequate those people are crazy for toting around such long guns.

The 270/6.5 PRC route is enticing but I want a one and done rifle for medium to big game. I'd like to take shots at 500 with confidence even if it's not a perfect broadside shot. A 20 inch 7 PRC maintains 1500 ft lbs of energy out to 800 yards with 175 gr eld-x. Seems like a no brainer if you can handle the recoil. I deer hunt with a 9lbs 7 rem mag (my dad's rifle) and the recoil doesn't really bother me so I see no reason not to get the 7 PRC.

Planning on a 6 inch suppressor so I'll be right at 26".
 
Right but if velocity is adequate those people are crazy for having such long guns. The 270/6.5 PRC route is enticing but I want a one and done rifle

Right but if velocity is adequate those people are crazy for toting around such long guns.

The 270/6.5 PRC route is enticing but I want a one and done rifle for medium to big game. I'd like to take shots at 500 with confidence even if it's not a perfect broadside shot. A 20 inch 7 PRC maintains 1500 ft lbs of energy out to 800 yards with 175 gr eld-x. Seems like a no brainer if you can handle the recoil. I deer hunt with a 9lbs 7 rem mag (my dad's rifle) and the recoil doesn't really bother me so I see no reason not to get the 7 PRC.

Planning on a 6 inch suppressor so I'll be right at 26".

Energy is not a good measure of terminal performance. There are several threads around here you should probably check out.
 
Energy is not a good measure of terminal performance. There are several threads around here you should probably check out.
Ok I'll check them out, I think I found one.
I do accept that a small bullet in the vitals is going to kill a large animal. However, more energy behind the bullet would just allow you to take shots you may not take with a less powerful cartridge. For example on quartering shots at long range I think more mass and velocity is useful for punching through non vital organs or joints, if necessary. Is that not the case?
 
IMG_0060.jpegIMG_0062.jpegIMG_0076.jpegThis bear was wider, hide to hide, than any elk I have killed or put a knife into. Barrel is 20”, plus suppressor. Shot was 523y. You don’t need a magnum cartridge. Don’t shoot animals in the guts. Shooting more rounds in a session and going to the range more often, will help you become better at long range. Magnum cartridges only make that more difficult, on your shoulder and your wallet.
 
I have a 300 win mag tikka that I cut to a 20 inch barrel, with a 178 eldx and 4831sc its doing 2960, the suppressor and the limbsaver makes the recoil very manageable you cam through a couple boxes through it in a range trip and not hate your life. That being said it collects dust and my 6 creedmoor, 6 arc and my 223 are the three that see the most use.
 
Ok I'll check them out, I think I found one.
I do accept that a small bullet in the vitals is going to kill a large animal. However, more energy behind the bullet would just allow you to take shots you may not take with a less powerful cartridge. For example on quartering shots at long range I think more mass and velocity is useful for punching through non vital organs or joints, if necessary. Is that not the case?

I think I wrote this exact same paragraph almost word for word about three years ago on 24 Hour Campfire.

With that said, if you want to use a magnum rifle, for whatever reason, go do it.

I offer advice. I’m in no position to dictate how you spend your time and money. But, you seem open to learning, so I will share my thoughts on the matter.

Assuming you aren’t trying for a Texas Heart Shot, there is no angle on a North American deer species at which a proper bullet impacting above 1800 FPS won’t penetrate to the vitals and do sufficient damage to kill it.

I won’t advise doing a hard-quartering-away shot in any case - not because of lack of penetration - but because I don’t want to hit it in the guts or stomach and spread the contents through the animal. I want a clean kill in every sense of the word.

Until Defenders of Wildlife start issuing flak jackets to elk and deer, I don’t see any need for a magnum cartridge inside of 500 yards. I believe that a .243 or 6mm CM or 6.5 CM is the only cartridge a North American deer hunter “needs.” I say that because several states still forbid the use of .224 calibers on big game (due to regulations written sixty years ago, when people didn’t know how terminal ballistics work and modern bullets didn’t exist, even though people were killing moose with the .220 Swift 70 years ago). And I think that those cartridges are close to the limit of “affordable to shoot a lot” and “pleasant to shoot a lot.”

The cartridge is just the propellant for the bullet. Its job is to deliver the bullet to the animal with sufficient velocity to ensure that bullet type expands consistently. For some bullets, consistent expansion requires more impact velocity than for others. Knowing how fast the bullet you are using needs to be going for consistent expansion is part of your job as a hunter.

Once you know that, match your maximum effective range to the cartridge/bullet combination that makes sense. You have set a self-imposed restriction of 500 yards. That is a very common hard limit among ethical hunters. There are those for whom it is ethical to shoot past that range. For most people, however, this will be well-short of 500 yards. I determine my maximum effective range on three things:

1. I personally don’t ever plan to shoot at any animal past 600 yards. My concern here is time of flight. The farther out the animal is located, the more that can happen after I pull the trigger. Even if I can hit steel way past that, animals can move, wind calls are hard, etc.

2. This range is also limited by the impact velocity of the rifle at that range. If I am shooting 123-grain ELDMs from my 6.5mm Grendel, that’s around 400 yards. If I were shooting a typical monolithic bullet, that range would be lower.

3. I also won’t take any shot past the range at which I know I can hit 10/10 on an 8” target from that field position under those field conditions with that rifle.

Also, the only thing stopping you from having all the rifles you want is budget. For all my “the .243 can do it all,” I plan to get a 9.3x62. Why? After all it is more expensive, more recoil, and less effective in some circumstances than many rifles I own…. Doesn’t matter. I want one.
 
View attachment 959136View attachment 959137View attachment 959138This bear was wider, hide to hide, than any elk I have killed or put a knife into. Barrel is 20”, plus suppressor. Shot was 523y. You don’t need a magnum cartridge. Don’t shoot animals in the guts. Shooting more rounds in a session and going to the range more often, will help you become better at long range. Magnum cartridges only make that more difficult, on your shoulder and your wallet.
What caliber was that?
 
I've always enjoyed shooting big cartridges. My first rifle was a 7 RM, hunted with it for 20 years, then a 300 RUM for most of 10 years, 338 Edge one year and various other smaller cartridges mixed in. 243, 6x45, 308, 450 Bushmaster and muzzle loaders to list a few.

After taking the S2H course and learning how to suck less(shoot more), I sold my 300 RUM which I loved.
The biggest cartridge I'll shoot going forward foreseeably, is my 6.5 PRC...maybe.

I never thought I'd say this...I'm hunting everything with a 6.5 Creed this year and anything inside 650 yds is in grave danger.
The only exception is I'm taking a Howa mini 6 Arc on a blacktail hunt where shots will be 150 yds and in.

OP, seriously, look at the 6mm threads, then the 223 threads. The take away should be bullets are better now and don't HAVE to be as big/heavy as in the past to get the desired effect.

If you WANT to shoot a 7PRC, go ahead. it's just not as necessary as you currently think.
 
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