Shooting Max Poundage vs Turned Down; 70 or 80# Limbs?

[Whisky]

I've searched the files of AT and see what some of them folks are saying, I'd like to hear what some you guys think about this.

Do bows in this day and age need to be shot maxed out?

Have any of you ordered 70-80# limbs (or for that matter 60-70) and cranked down to 74-75 lbs with any issues?? My main concern there, how much does the DL change when you turn the bow down, if any? Draw cycle?

I'm ordering a Carbon Spyder 34 and trying to decide on 70 or 80# limbs. I'm dropping down from 28.5 to 28" DL, and would like to maintain the same speed and KE with a 450 gr arrow. Although there comes a point where I'm willing to sacrifice some speed and KE for shootability. My S34 out of the box maxed out at 74, over time it came down to 72, but I'm used to shooting over 70lbs, and that's with a DL .5" too long.

I know there are plenty of 80# bow fans here..Thoughts and experiences? Thanks

 

[Nick Muche]

I have always been confused as to why people would want to shoot such high poundage and risk ruining their shoulder and having to give up archery all together because of it.

 

[boom]

i'm equally as confused why everyone cares what somebody does or wants to do. haha..jk.

i've shot my Z7 for years, with 70 limbs..turned down two turns to 66. pretty comfy there for me. my new Elite is easier on the draw, so i shoot it maxed at 70lbs..never put it on a scale, but i bet it is higher.

this is my last 70lb bow. my next one will have 60lb limbs. hell, i might order them for this bow. 60 is ridiculously comfy for me. i do love it.

i believe the thinking back in the day was that maxed out limbs were crunched down tight to the riser. thusly, no limb movements at the connections. now modern limb pockets make that a non-issue..right?

 

[Whisky]

I have always been confused as to why people would want to shoot such high poundage and risk ruining their shoulder and having to give up archery all together because of it.

I agree with you to a point. There are some who shoot that high of poundage and can't shoot it for crap. 15-20 practice arrows and they are done for. But there are some who can handle the weight as well. And with that said, I'll quote Darin Cooper.

I've probably said this before, but I think it warrants repeating here...

Pretty much any normal (50+) hunting weight bow and arrow combination will do the job on a good broadside shot on just about any north American big game animal.

HOWEVER... bowhunting situations are difficult if not impossible to control and sometimes in spite of all our best efforts, $h*t happens... That's when more (draw weight and arrow weight) can pay dividends. It's not going to help you if you gut shoot something, or shoot something through the backstrap. However, on bone impacts, spine impacts, frontal and rear shots that sometimes occur due to (insert scenario here), the added energy will, in some cases, make the difference between recovering an animal or living with the gut aching feeling of knowing you wounded (wasted in some instances) an animal.

I am not inviting anyone to over-bow themselves or shoot a bow they can't draw back smoothly in a cold, uncomfortable position or a bow they can't shoot accurately. I'm also not promoting frontal, rear or any other shot than a broadside or quartering away shot within your effective range. But... it's my philosophy that if you can comfortably and accurately handle the extra draw weight, you might buy yourself a little safety net when $h*t happens.

I've had $h*t happen, and on a few occasions more draw weight, arrow weight, and a better broadhead choice in my estimation would have improved my odds of celebrating rather than pouting. I've since modified my equipment selections to improve my odds. In car racing, they don't dress for the race, they dress for the crash. A lot of bowhunters plan around perfect. Bowhunt long enough and eventually perfect will turn to $h... and that's when you start to really question and analyze the equipment selections you've made.

Bottom line - if you can really handle 75-80 pounds, go for it. If you can only really manage 65 comfortably, then don't try to up the draw weight or you are only going to increase the probability of a poor shot and wounding game.

Another important piece of advice... If you're going to shoot an 80 pound bow at 72 pounds, then you're better off to bottom out the bolts on a 70 pound bow and you'll get the same 72+ pounds and more performance. Bows perform better when they're bottomed out.

Clunk, clunk... (that was me stepping down off the soap box).

Good luck and shoot straight!!

Coop

I'm not looking to over-bow my self. I feel I can handle mid 70 # weights. If I can't I will turn it down or get a new bow. I was more or less curious on the mechanics of a bow shot in the middle to lower end of the draw weight, and if it's a good idea to buy a bow with intentions of doing just that.

Hoyt just needs to make 65-75# limbs, problem solved!!

 

[MattB]

Hoyts usually max out 2-4# over the sticker, so if you want to 74-75# buy a 70# bow and don't look back. You can see a lengthening of DL if you back the limbs out depending on the geometry, and I cannot speak to whether that would be the case with the Hoyt.

As an aside, I just shot the 34" ATA carbon bow at 73# and was shocked at how easy it was to draw - it felt 10#+ lighter than the Element with RKT cams. Very smooth.

 

[boom]

my good friend shoots some Bowtech with 80 limbs. he is built like a MMA fighter..lean, ripped like a super hero. shoots max DL as well. somewhere near 31"..his arrows fly visibly fast..you can barely see them! it is entertaining to watch.

i would look like a struggling little girl trying to pull that bow back. i'd never find the wall..much less get to it.

he is the worst guy to backpack with. very humiliating. hehe.

 

[Beastmode]

I've searched the files of AT and see what some of them folks are saying, I'd like to hear what some you guys think about this.

Do bows in this day and age need to be shot maxed out?

Have any of you ordered 70-80# limbs (or for that matter 60-70) and cranked down to 74-75 lbs with any issues?? My main concern there, how much does the DL change when you turn the bow down, if any? Draw cycle?

I'm ordering a Carbon Spyder 34 and trying to decide on 70 or 80# limbs. I'm dropping down from 28.5 to 28" DL, and would like to maintain the same speed and KE with a 450 gr arrow. Although there comes a point where I'm willing to sacrifice some speed and KE for shootability. My S34 out of the box maxed out at 74, over time it came down to 72, but I'm used to shooting over 70lbs, and that's with a DL .5" too long.

I know there are plenty of 80# bow fans here..Thoughts and experiences? Thanks

Shooting an 80 lb limb bow set at 70lbs isn't going to be as efficient as shooting a 70lb bow maxed out. A 70 lb bow maxed out might be shooting @ 70-75lbs though. If you want to shoot low 70s shoot a 70lb bow.

Bottom line imo is draw length and draw weight will not make up for a poor shot. Shoot what you are personally comfortable with and don't take questionable shots. Good luck.

 

[JasonWi]

My carbon element had 70-80# limbs, I set it around 76#. My Katera Xl has 60-70# limbs and its set at 72#. Even though 4# doesn't seem like much I really could tell the difference after a range session. I fatigued sooner and didn't feel like the extra poundage and fps was worth it to me.

I shoot a 450 grain arrow in the mid 280's and to be honest I don't need that much bow #, Id be better off in the 66-68# range for ease of shooting and muscle fatigue.

 

[Ohio Darin]

Another thing to consider is a maxed out bow is quieter than a turned down one…. at least that's been my experience.

 

[bowuntr]

I've always shot my 70# bows bottomed out... check the tiller and start tuning... good to go. I haven't had a limb fail since the 90's. That's just how I roll... Ed F

 

[OR Archer]

Some bows if you back them off from peak you will increase the brace height. The Monster series is a good example. This will increase the draw length also so you will end up shortening it plus the added brace will decrease its performance. Hoyts aren't as prone to this but I still recommend shooting them peak to get the most out of them.

Turning them down will not affect the accuracy or tuning of the bow however.

 

[joehunter8301]

Lots of valid points but I agree mostly w the Darin cooper quote. Most bows will get the job done if you do your job or wait for the perfect shot. Doesn't always go like that in the woods. If you can handle 80 then shoot it. Every guy is built different. Some guys can pull 80 easier than others pull 60. I say shoot the max you can handle. I just blew thru a 215# hog at 11 steps with 70# an 400 grain vpa tipped arrow. Shot was almost head on arrow exited right by his weiner. Obviously plenty of power but I have seen situations where 80# would have come in handy.

Also if you go with 80 an back the bolts out just make sure you mark them for a reference to know if they move. The theory of bows shooting better maxed out isn't. 100% true. If you back it out 2 turns I doubt you will see a significant difference. That being said 70# is enough for any NA animal under ideal conditions but having the extra ump isn't a bad thing. Kinda be like shooting a 243 at an elk vs a 300. Lot more shot options. You get my drift. Good luck

 

[joehunter8301]

Since I spoke about animal penetration I'll answer ur original question. Yes I have seen draw length change w some bows when the limb bolts were adjusted. You can always play with the loop to get it perfect but then your peep view could change a bit. I do not have much experience w hoyts tho so Myb others can give you their 2cents. Goin down 1/2" in draw length usually is a good thing cuz when you bundle up in cold weather everything feels longer. I wouldn't worry bout the few fps u lose it won't make any difference on an animal. If your used to shooting btween 72-74 lbs an want to stay there u can always add a couple twist to the cables and keep shoot that way but if your wanting to try 76+ I suggest the 80 limbs. Have you tried shooting any bows at 76+ Lbs to see if you like it? Good luck

 

[5MilesBack]

My first bow I got in 60lb because I have ~32" draw, so figured I didn't need 70. I ended up buying a new on the shelf 2yo bow in 70lb about a year later. I just prefer the feel of drawing and holding on that 70lb bow over the 60........both binary. Now.......do I need an 80lb bow, especially with a 32"+ draw length? Of course not, but I keep considering it just because I can. But at a year shy of 50, I think I've just settled on keeping things at 70 for now. I've shot this bow turned down to 60 just to compare to my other bow, and it shoots great either way. The only difference is that it does change things up a bit. The peep height changes if I want to keep my same anchor........so not a good option of going back and forth for me. So I just keep both bows, but the 60 just hangs in my hobby room for the most part.

 

[realunlucky]

I had a Hoyt ultra Tec with 80 limbs and loved the wall after awhile tried shooting it at 70 and it was like shooting another bow. Bought a kateria xl with 70 limbs shot it buried for awhile and backed it off for turkey's to 65 with hardly any performance loss and feel of shooting to me. My hoyt carbon bow has 65 limbs I shoot it with the bolts buried and have yet to shoot it any other way. I feel the 65 limbs were the perfect fit for me. In my experience some bows change drastically by backing the bolts off and some hardly but they still design them to be shot at max poundage. By the way my 65 bow is only a few fps slower than my older 80 bow was technology had advanced a lot in that short time

 

[Whisky]

I shot a CST #3 cams at 75 lbs (70# limbs, right out of the box). I don't think I liked it. I can say that my 2013 Spyder 34 at 74 drew smoother. If I was to go 80 limbs it would have been in the CS34 and not the Turbo though. I don't think I'm interested in 80 anymore.

This is really stupid, but honestly, I think the biggest problem for me is spending $1400 on a bow, a newer bow then what I'm currently shooting, and dropping performance (because a decrease in DL). I know there isn't an animal in the world that could tell a difference between that, but it bugs me.

I called Hoyt, and got some specific specs on the different cams and slot options for my new 28" DL.

28" DL, 70#, 450 gr arrow

CS34, 2c cam, IBO 331 - 275 fps/75 ft-lbs

CST, 3a cam, IBO 339 - 283 fps/81 ft-lbs

CST, 2e cam, IBO 346 - 290 fps/84 ft-lbs

With that new info, the CST with the 2 cam 70# limbs has really caught my interest. In theory I could turn it down to 68 lb and still be outperforming my current set up in both speed and KE, with 4lbs less draw weight.

Yeah, I waffle a lot. Generally I purchase first and learn from my mistakes later. This is new to me. And I don't live in a place where shooting all these bows and different cams is an option.

 

[Rent Outdoor Gear]

The CST will be a screamer at 28 because the #2 cam is maxed out in DL there with the E modules. That's my favorite place to be with a Hoyt. The cam will feel a little more agressive and a touch shorter in the valley, but that feeling is muted a bit in the newer generations of cams.

Bows do perform better (more efficiently) at their peak weight, but it's not a big factor unless you're dropping well below max (8-12 pounds). As limbs are stressed more they are typically more efficient and the front of the force draw curve is steeper when the bow is maxed out so it stores more energy at the same draw weight. A 60 pounder that maxes at 62 will shoot 3-5 feet faster than a 70 pound bow that's dropped to 62.

They will often shoot quieter when maxed out because the limbs have more preload at brace height in this condition. That pre-load is what maintains string tension at brace height. When string tension gets too low you tend to get a prolonged twang or buzz coming from the bow. Draw length used to vary more when backing out the limbs, but since bows typically have parallel limb geometry now, it doesnt change brace height or draw length as much with draw weight changes - you should easily be able to get back to your draw with a few twists in the string or with a little tweak on your D-Loop length.

Hope this helps!

Coop