Shooting magnums more better

Get the rifle perfectly set up for you?
I feel like it's about as perfectly set up for me as it can be. I've definitely spent a lot of time in the setup, and have almost 1,000 rounds down the tube and have shot relatively well in elr light matches and prone with it. But once I'm kneeling or standing I will have good sight alignment and then pull the trigger, then loosen the target in the scope, and sometimes it's a hit and sometimes a miss, but I never know where the bullet went. I feel like there has to be some way to tighten that up some, maybe I'm wrong though?

For example, I was shooting a 10" steel at 180 yards recently. I went 4/6 with my 300 Norma in a kneeling position. With my 6.5 creedmoor I was 6/6. So I guess what I'm not sure about is whether I'm just getting away with lower quality fundamentals on my lighter recoiling rifles, if my 300 Norma will never have hit rate greater than 2/3 on an over five MOA target from a kneeling position, or if there's some fundamental principles for shooting higher recoiling rifles from those positions. I know in the AR world we are trained to use a sling to add tension at times from a standing position and that can reduce your wobble zone, so I'm not sure if there are a little tips and tricks or fundamental changes that people use when shooting bigger magnums.
 
I'm not a fan. I want it to be what it is when I'll be shooting game with it.

I did the light load thing before and I felt like it made me even more conscious of the recoil when shooting hunting ammo, so I quit doing it. YMMV.

It is great for shooting more for cheaper.

I generally shoot a mix of low power (or 22lr, 223, dasher, etc) and full loads every time I go the range. I bring multiple rifles because I’m there to shoot, not sit around and wait for barrels to cool. I sure wouldn’t shoot nothing but light recoil then head out to hunt with full power. I also don’t shoot anything with huge recoil anymore. I won’t even do load work for friends magnums any more unless they do all the shooting. Brought back an old flinch from the dead a few years ago trying to find something a finicky and lightweight 300wm liked.


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Reload it down and/or use lighter bullets.
I've considered that. The current barrel is at end of life and I have a 20" barrel for hunting that I'm going to run on it, so dropping down from the 225 and 245 to something in the 185 range for hunting has crossed my mind, especially with a shorter barrel.
 
I won’t even shoot a typical 30-06 anymore without a brake or suppressor.

Yeah, shooting form/technique is the same, but it takes a lot better technique when recoil goes up. My thoughts are that the magnum exploits every little gap you leave in control.

We all know a braked .223 has so little recoil it is easier to shoot. It’s easier because you don’t have to actually have mastered control. You can completely ignore some facets of technique necessary for a big magnum.

Tighten up control of the rifle. A sling, shoot off a tripod, etc. find ways to make shots more consistent. Video yourself shooting and critique yourself as hard as possible in a thorough/curious manner.

Probably, the best thing you can do is get personal coaching. It’s so hard to see and improve ourselves.
 
Probably, the best thing you can do is get personal coaching. It’s so hard to see and improve ourselves.

This has definitely been on my mind lately. I have had a lot of professional training in the gas gun and pistol world, it's probably time to seek some in the bolt gun/hunting world.
 
Nope. You guys want to barely hold a rifle, rest your thumb to the side and not hold the pistol grip, barely any pressure on the shoulder, maybe even free recoil it, then have a hard time controlling it and blame an inability to get back on target on the cartridge.

Forgot that everyone Seems to shoot that way. I guess I shoot them the same without issue because I shoot my light recoil rifles the same as I shoot my heavy ones- only ones that get the minimal touch are ones I only shoot from a bench.


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Nope. You guys want to barely hold a rifle, rest your thumb to the side and not hold the pistol grip, barely any pressure on the shoulder, maybe even free recoil it, then have a hard time controlling it and blame an inability to get back on target on the cartridge.
You literally describe proper shooting form and technique then advocated not using and changing it due to recoil all while trying to claim that the higher recoil cartridge is not the problem!! 🤔
 
shoot my light recoil rifles the same as I shoot my heavy ones

Same. Having a rifle that actually kicks hard (a 7.5 pound .375 h&h) was what it took to make me understand how to really shoot a rifle. I guess I learn the hard way (gonna be dumb gotta be tough) and a rifle with that kind of recoil will let you know via pain and suffering if you aren't doing it right. The stock was also awful, so that didn't help.

I hated that .375 for a lot of reasons, but I do think it made me better. I'm comfortable shooting my .338 win mag from every field position I've had to shoot it from, or 20 rounds from the bench, or whatever. It's not bad at all and at least for now I enjoy shooting it.

I think all there is to it is shooting whatever you've chosen to punish yourself with a wholeeeeeeee lot with full juice loads. If you get behind it and think "man this is gonna suck" then get something that kicks less. If recoil is in the front of your mind, I don't see how you could shoot well. You gotta shoot enough to quit noticing it.
 
You literally describe proper shooting form and technique then advocated not using and changing it due to recoil all while trying to claim that the higher recoil cartridge is not the problem!! 🤔
300 Norma has about the same recoil as a 375 H&H, or 340 Weatherby - I think it’s funny that anyone would suggest it’s just like shooting any other cartridge. Lol

Having shot this range of cartridges since high school, and seeing what has and hasn’t worked with a fairly wide group of experienced shooters, I would love to hand a number of guys a rifle and not tell them if it’s a 340 or a creed and watch their “proper” technique.
 
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So by your logic, higher recoiling cartridges require you to shoot differently by imparting more pressure and potentially torque on the rifle, but when you dont shoot it as well, dont blame the higher recoiling cartridge!!! That's what you're saying?!?!? I think thats funny, lol
 
That’s a good question, because recoil does complicate a few things, at least for me. I had groups with higher recoiling guns that were shifting almost 1 MOA depending on the position, while the 243 groups weren’t.

The main issue is holding on, but not too tight. I’ve never been a fan of simply letting go of the forend, even when shooting over a pack, because of the extra muzzle jump and it’s much more difficult to get back on target.

Maybe it’s second nature to others, but it took years to understand the importance of gripping hard enough to not slip off the forend and pistol grip, but allowing the arms to be 90% neutral and just along for the ride until after the shot, then quickly pull the gun back on target. That’s somewhat natural with lower recoiling guns, but not being tense was something I had to overcome as recoil levels increased.

At least for me there’s no way around pulling the rifle into the shoulder with the trigger hand with at least enough force to snuggle the recoil pad up to the shoulder with a few pounds of force.

My original heavy recoiling rifle was an old tang safety Ruger with the hard recoil pad. I tried a PAST shoulder shield pad and really liked it, but it adds 1/2” to the length of pull, so I began shortening all the heavy recoiling stocks to be correct with the pad. While hunting a shot might be taken with the pack on, or clothing adds a bit of thickness, so the shortened length of pull isn’t noticed in the field.

Problems holding the rifle really show themselves when firing two or three shots quickly - strong arm it so muzzle rise is minimal and it pulled the point of impact. Limp arm it and muzzle rise is excessive, the scope is more likely to get into your face, and it’s hard to see dust or the target reaction. There’s a happy medium that has to be reinforced with practice to build muscle memory.

All that sounds pretty straightforward, like I over think it, but the amount of forend grip is so important to my shooting style, I even hold the forend on the bench when using a sand bag front rest, or when using short bipods. The light weight 7 mag that was super accurate showed another issue if the forend isn’t held not related to the above mentioned shift, it changes impacts up and to the right 1/4 MOA for me - if the gun wasn’t such a good shooter I would have never noticed. It might not sound like much, but how many thousands of rounds have many of us fired to get an extra 1/4 MOA. That seems to be more of an issue the lighter the rifle and higher the recoil.

If the rifle is squared up to prone, a host of eye relief and cheek weld issues can plague someone when switching to sitting or standing. It also forces someone to let go of the forend sometimes and hold it others. I suspect I’m not the only one with groups that shift when the forend is let go of, but it’s rarely talked about.

One year I decided to not use the 243 trainer/plinker/rock killer and only shoot the 7 mag and 340 wby. It wasn’t as pleasant, but more importantly it didn’t change my groups any - it did burn up a barrel by that fall, and that’s about it. Ever since then I don’t wear the barrels out of larger hunting rifles forcing them to be a trainer. There’s nothing wrong with it, there’s just no advantage, at least for me.

That’s all I have.
I figure I’ll lean towards lighter recoiling rifles as I age. Firm grips have always worked better for me , magnum or not. My days of fully absorbing the recoil in order to aid spotting (reduced muzzle jump) are likely going to slow down with heavier recoiling rifles. That’s always helped with lens eye. It’s never happened to me. Hope I didn’t just give myself the kiss of death. 😂 Put brakes on my 325wsm rifles so bench work isn’t as abusive.
I often work on my offhand skills and I may have to resort to letting my torso go backwards with the recoil. Again, I’ve always tried to hold firm and follow through on POA. It plain works and I appreciated your comment.
 
300 Norma has about the same recoil as a 375 H&H, or 340 Weatherby - I think it’s funny that anyone would suggest it’s just like shooting any other cartridge. Lol

Having shot this range of cartridges since high school, and seeing what has and hasn’t worked with a fairly wide group of experienced shooters, I would love to hand a number of guys a rifle and not tell them if it’s a 340 or a creed and watch their “proper” technique.
Why not just use big rifle technique when you shoot the small rifle? Firm grip, shoulder pressure, etc regardless of recoil level? Humor me please, and explain why you would not shoot them the same?
 
Why not just use big rifle technique when you shoot the small rifle? Firm grip, shoulder pressure, etc regardless of recoil level? Humor me please, and explain why you would not shoot them the same?
That’s a great question. Consistency is key in getting shots off accurately, and I do use the same style hold with the same grip pressures for all different cartridges. It’s a conscious decision to keep it uniform between rifles, or it’s very easy to develop bad habits that work 99.9% of the time and fail when under pressure when the brain doesn’t correct for the rifle that’s being shot. My shooting through the year is treated like training for the hunting rifle, so for the most part if I do something a certain way hunting, that’s duplicated throughout.

Keep in mind the latest style of shooting with the thumb to the side, very little recoil pad pressure, light grips, light cheek pressure and almost allowing the rifle to partially free recoil with the shoulders squared up to the centerline of the bore is quite new and not very tolerant of high recoil. Many guys have never known anything different and almost all shooting instructors I’ve seen on video or read about their advice, don’t even bring up the differences, so it’s a mystery to someone trying to sort out fact from fantasy. Scopes are purchased based on online spec sheets so eye relief takes a back seat to field of view in designs and that works fine for Creedmoors. Even mounting instructions today are very lax about stressing the importance of positioning the scope as far forward as possible given the ideal head position.
 
Rifles from 223 savage to 300WSM tikka all get shot with a similar technique. The only one I change for is a Monte Carlo stocked 8.25# 9.3x62 shooting 286gr bullets going 2500fps. From the bench and standing with sticks it get a more firm forearm grip to fight muzzle rise. This may be recoil or stock design but I still shoot it accurately, I just need a relaxed grip but pressure to fight muzzle rise
 
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