Shim in recoil lug slot

[Bidwell]

That would be true in most cases however the bolt being in the recoil lug means that the action will deflect under torque unless the bottom of the lug is supported as well

The correct thing to do here is wrap the barrel with tape to establish the correct clearance and bed the front of the action including under the lug

Interesting. What do you think would be the consequences of the lug torqueing?Accuracy issues or any damage to the rifle? I consulted with a local gunsmith and he sounded OK with the shim method.

 

[Castle Rock]

Yes, what you have done will work, but as TP said the small contact surface may be an issue over time

 

[Bidwell]

Please keep us updated with what you try and what works.

I ended up shimming the lug channel and the space behind the channel with .025 inch aluminum pieces. That worked great for the free floating. I put just a small dab of epoxy on them so I can pretty easily pry them off if needed without damaging the stock. The weather is bad right now but managed to shoot about 7 rounds before the rain started again in my little local blm spot up the road. I could only shoot about 30 yards since it was so foggy. So far so good, albeit with a very limited test. At least its not spraying bullets. Everything is in a nice little group.

When I first shot this rifle during the break in period, I was extremely off paper from where my little laser point bore sight device was pointing. I sort of assumed It was due to the constant cleaning, bad ammo, new rifle and barrel not floating. Or some scope issue. Turns out it was my muzzle brake. My first shot fired today, I couldn't even find where it hit. I took took the muzzle brake off and it's pretty much dead on where the laser points. Anyone ever experience that? It must be over a foot, maybe more, left or right and up and down from point of aim. It's my first muzzle brake but this can't be normal. The guy I bought it off of has a great reputation. It's a custom made brake he designs for this rifle.